Road Racing Duster 6.4 Hemi E85 6 speed Ms3 Pro Evo EFI

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Update: I ordered the Bouchillon Gen 3 Hemi throttle cable and bracket that was 167 shipped. Waste of money. It only apparently works perfectly if you use the old BBK driver side throttle activated TB. You can force it to work with an LS TB, but you have to still rig up a bracket to mount the bracket it comes with to get the throttle cable geometry correct (as close as possible). The bracket seems to be the only thing made, the cable looks to be a stock GM cable. The tube that is made of plastic and goes into the car, is to long and hits the back of the pedal, so you have to trim it, waste. The tube the cable is in, is also a very semi bendable plastic, however you have to drill the hole of the stock location cable to .660, which puts it right near the valve cover.. i had to clearance the plastic covers to get the push/lock piece to seat properly and not over bend the cable. I *Highly* suggest for anyone doing a swap to get the cheapest and longest universal cable and make your own bracket.

I will making this one work for “now” and when the car comes apart to repaint the engine bay later down the road I will be replacing it. Also if you wanted you could buy the stock throttle cable for like 30 dollars and then make a bracket, like this one: https://www.partsgeek.com/kcxw8fx-g...NDKpvAlwYfFxM9wnz6AiAgzCWhl7akPxoCiZIQAvD_BwE


My plan is to make a bracket off of where the front passenger fuel rail bolt is and bolt their bracket to it. I’m also looking for a ball cup to insert the safety wire cable into and mount to the throttle ball casted into the throttle lever since the piece they supply is too large for any of the holes and would require me to attempt to drill the holes larger, which I have no issue with, but I much prefer to attempt the ball cup setup first and then find the cable holder for an LS cable next. Using the ball/cup will allow me enough cable to not have to make a huge bracket. So we shall see


Attached is a photo of my Tb. (Mines 92mm) The piece that I’m mentioning as a ball and cup is the piece I believe is used as a kickdown attachment.. I’m looking for something I can attach to the end of my cable and pop on here

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Pondering if this might work or something similar. The TB isn’t really round so hmm

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SRT_DSTR15 said:
Pondering if this might work or something similar. The TB isn’t really round so hmm

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I don't know if it will work for you, but when I break a throttle cable, I don't buy a new one, I just get one of those and a bicycle brake cable. If you can get the pictured end hooked up, chances are you can finish the install with a bike cable. FWIW brake cables are thicker than shifter cables.
 
Uncle Bob said:
I don't know if it will work for you, but when I break a throttle cable, I don't buy a new one, I just get one of those and a bicycle brake cable. If you can get the pictured end hooked up, chances are you can finish the install with a bike cable. FWIW brake cables are thicker than shifter cables.
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Oh I see and end like this and a bike cable, the bike cables have something on the end of them to prevent them from slipping through the throttle pedal also?
 
Can’t remember where I got this but I think it’s from a carb linkage kit for a standard Holley type 4150.
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The Bouchillon cable is a GM F body style GM Throttle Cable for LS1 F-Body

also here’s a possible bracket:
Motion Throttle Cable Bracket for ICON 92/102mm for GM Fbody style cab

And then the holley and jegs one:
Holley EFI 20-148 Cable Bracket for 105mm Throttle Bodies on Factory or FAST Brand car style intakes


Decided that I’m going to make my own though. Got some cardboard and mocked it up, will run off the front fuel line bolt and bolt to existing bracket supplied, slot the hole for minor cable adjustment. After bracket is fabricated, only minor fab left.

fab left:
1. Floor mounts for racing seats (weld in some thicker metal for bracket mounting.
2. Steering column adapter to dd shaft
3. Exhaust system
4. Weld piece of metal to clutch assembly for hydraulic clutch reservoir mounting
 
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Update:

So I got the kick down cable in from Amazon. I got the cheapest one to test the theory. Both the slide over Kickdown head and the ball cup clicking one will work. The kickdown slide over one is just plastic on this one, so I will be running the metal ball cup one for now. If it starts to or binds in testing, I will then look elsewhere.

I’ve decided that I shouldn’t need the bike cable(s) for now because where I plan to place and the angle on the bracket, shouldn’t need a longer one (for now) .

the good thing about the kickdown slide over one though is that you can keep the extra length of cable and just adjust with a sort of cable stop.

also is the cardboard bracket idea and my thoughts.

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Update: Just got a nice 33 gallon craftsman air compressor. And I got the engine and trans out to get into the engine bay a little better for prep

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40ish mins to remove engine and trans. Sucks not having a lift for engine trans removal, but definitely can cut the time down. Cheers

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That’s interesting, I’d like to get some quick jacks and raise the whole car up at once, but that’s an idea I’ll consider too. Thank you
 
If you’re making all new brake lines, why bother with the stock distribution blocks? Why not just use an adjustable proportioning valve? You’ll need one anyway to really tune the brake and tire combo you end up with.
 
ScamperTom said:
If you’re making all new brake lines, why bother with the stock distribution blocks? Why not just use an adjustable proportioning valve? You’ll need one anyway to really tune the brake and tire combo you end up with.
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Not making new lines. Distribution block is just to transfer the fluid to the corners, no prop valve in an all drum/disc one. No need for a prop valve as told by Dr. Diff if the front brakes are bigger than front too. I have a prop valve that will be added in at some point, but I’m not trying to reinvent the entire wheel, just pieces of it. Stock lines work, only one that might need work is on the shortened housing, otherwise this system is a bolt together kit. The idea is to build the car with as little custom stuff as possible, so it’s easy to order and replace, cut down replacement time
 
Looks like some US Car Tool stiffening pieces on radiator support and in front wheel wells? Any feedback on those pieces?
 
340sFastback said:
Looks like some US Car Tool stiffening pieces on radiator support and in front wheel wells? Any feedback on those pieces?
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They look cool? haha. You see that I am in the process of putting the car together, no? haha We will see when she's up and running.

UPDATE: 12/20/22:

- I have started a job on the side, but fortunately for now it is a home job, but I have time to get things going on the project. For Christmas I have purchased the tools I will need to do this properly. Working again has helped with being able to move forward with the project. I can always post reviews of the items I am using too if anyone is interested as I go. But, it will be more car war oriented as I want to drive this thing bad.
 
Also, I had some thoughts on prepping the Engine bay. I'm holding off on it for now. I am still assembling this vehicle for the first time with all the new work done and being added. I believe it best to wait until it's assembled and I know where everything lives. This will help lower the chance of damaging paint. So the build is a test mule. We shall nickname it Test Mule v.1
 
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