rocker arms assembly

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Minella

Minella

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Hello Guys!
I have a pair of Eddy's that I'll use Crane Gold rocker arms kit #69791-1 and I bought a Steel Mopar hold down clamps #4529740. During the assembly I saw that the aluminum rocker touch the steel clamps, so I'm concerned that the clamps will wear the aluminum rockers. Is this really heappens? Have I use aluminum clamps for those rockers?

Thank a lot,
Minella
 
DSC01869.jpg

DSC01869.jpg
 
You really need to be taking a close look at how everything fits together. I prefer grinding the edge of the hold downs a little and using the spacer shims to take up the gap as required. That eliminates any issues with wear between the rocker and the clamp. Make sure that your roller tip is going to be where it belongs in the full sweep. Bob Mazzolini in Riverside, Ca was nice enough to not let me leave his shop without a bit of info to help me out. He gave me a copy of T&D's valvetrain geometry sheet. It shows you where the roller should be in relation to your valve tip during the full sweep of the rocker. Here is a copy for everyone who wants it:
TDrollertipalignment001.jpg
 
Thanks a lot guys. I liked the idea to use shims, sounds good and the ebay parts also, very cheaper than mopar. I''ll see the best choice.
I'm from Brazil and we don't have a good knowledge in this engines.
Again thanks a lot.
Minella
 
How to Hot Rod Small Block Mopars is a good book to get. They really show you a lot of good stuff in it.
 
I just have the book How to build big-inch mopar small blocks.
Its a good advice, I'll import it.

Thanks

Minella
 
I was reading through one of the older posts and heard a lot of good and bad info about the stock rockers vs the aftermarket, so I thought I'd add in my own experience with them.

The stock rockers are very strong, but you really don't want to use them if you are gonna be spinning it much past 6200 rpm. The faster they have to move, the more pressure they exert on the valve, causing a side load and wearing the guides. The other problem with them is the ratios vary quite a bit from one rocker arm to the next. Lastly, there is no adjustment on them so all your (hyd) lifters will actually have different preloads. The factory system was really designed for new engines only. They were never intended to be used with the same pushrods after you do any head or deck milling because this will increase your lifter preload unless you were to shorten each pushrod to match the milling.

The first and cheapest upgrade for the stockers is to get a set of Crane's ductile iron adjustable rockers. These are very durable and have a large scrub pad where they contact the valve.
http://www.cranecams.com/index.php?show=browseParts&lvl=3&prt=2120

The step up from there is the Crane Gold Race rockers. They are made out of extruded aluminum, have a large roller tip and are adjustable. I run these myself and have had zero issues with them. When I was running the Clay Smith solid 308/.525 with 3/8" pushrods, they saw 6500 rpm everytime I drove it and 7500 rpm when I raced.
The 1.5 ratio set is part #69790-1
The 1.6 ratio set is part #69791-1
Keep in mind that increasing the ratio increases lift only, not duration.

These Harland Sharp's are also top quality:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/mopa....c0.m245&_trkparms=72:727|65:12|39:1|240:1318

If you are running non-production style race heads then T&D is the way to go.
http://www.tdmach.com/page12-13.shtml

The first set of roller rockers I ever used was Comp Cams iron adjustable roller rockers that they call the Magnum Roller Rockers. I used them in my 340with their 305H (I think it was a 305/.525") cam and matching pushrods. It didn't take long for a roller tip to snap off one of the rockers.
After talking to Comp and taking their advice on proper adjustment, I installed the new rocker and adjusted the whole set again.
My adjustments were correct to begin with, so that was not the problem.
They were in ther for about a year when I pulled the valve covers to check them and found that a few of them had the pin that the roller rides on loosen up. I sent the whole set back to Comp Cams and they sent them back to me saying that they had replaced all of the loose ones and included one extra, just in case I had any other problems.
The new ones used a different adjuster on them but functioned the same. The only problem was, they did send me an extra rocker but they missed one of the loose ones so that was just a paper weight.
After all that, I put them back on the 340 and ran them until I replaced them with Crane Gold Race Rockers.
I have had zero problems with the Crane's and I don't anticipate any.
My personal opinion is, if you are going to run factory style heads and you want to upgrade from the stock rockers, go with the either the Crane ductile iron adjustable's or the Gold Race rockers.

I would run stock 273 adjustable rockers before I would opt for the "ebay special" roller rockers that are very cheap. They put a pair of needle bearings inside the hole where they ride on the shaft and this concentrates the pressure on two cheap sets of needle bearings. I can see the little pair of needle bearings eating right into the shaft they ride on, putting metal in your oil.
Mopar shaft mount rockers are pressure oiled and do not need a needle bearing. If anything, they add friction.

These are the type of rockers I'm talking about:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MOPA....c0.m245&_trkparms=72:727|65:12|39:1|240:1318
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SB-M....c0.m245&_trkparms=72:727|65:12|39:1|240:1318


These look a lot like the Comp Cams Magnum Roller Rockers. The main problem I had with them was the pin/rivet that held the roller in the rocker that would work loose over time:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-....c0.m245&_trkparms=72:727|65:12|39:1|240:1318

Great info here on adjusting the valvetrain:
http://www.cranecams.com/?show=techarticle&id=2

I hope this was helpful.
Mopar340Dave


P.S. Something I forgot to mention, the Magnum rockers from Comp are different now than they were when I bought them. They have, apparently, changed the design and made them better. I have been told by one top engine builder that he uses them and has not had any problems. He was surprised to hear that I had. Next time I go see him I'm gonna bring one of my loose tipped ones with me to show him and compare to the new version.
I was also told to stay away from Indy rocker arms. It sounded crazy to me, but I have heard it from others since then. They just don't hold up.
 
Uau Dave! It's a lot of information! It's very useful! Thanks
I'll say my combo:
Small mopar 318 block 71
forged 4' k1 crank
H-beam k1 rods
Forged Kb pistons for 11.75:1 compression running with AVGas, we don't have race gas.
Doug herbert solid roller cam .050 246º/250º, .626/.642 at 1.6, 108º
Doug herbert roller lifters
C.A.T. gear drive
Cromoly crane pushrods
Crane gold roller rockers 1.6
Doug herbert valve springs and retainers
Cromoly trick flow 10º Valve locks
Edelbrock heads #60779 shady dell stage 3
Pro-gram main caps
Hughes engines girdle kit
Sealed power high volume oil pump
Victor 340 intake manifold
1' wilson manifolds tappered spacer
Mighty Demon 750 CFM carb
Holley blue pump
MSD ignition 6-plus
MSD billet distribuitor
Manual 4 speed gear box
4.27 drive ratio
And for the next year I hope to use +200 hp progressive nitrous.

Is it good for a Brazilian guy? Any comment about the combo?

Thanks again

Minella
 
LOL, for a Brazilian guy? I'd say it's good for any of us! Sounds badass!
What kind of times have been able to run so far?
 
I'm not sure as the software Drag2003 say 11.00 with slicks/without nitrous.
And 10.4 with nitrous.
In a Dart.

Best regards,

Minella
 
I'd grind the hold downs and use shims to get your rocker side clearance set.

Otherwise, buy a different set of hold downs.

Nice build on the engine.

I
 
One thing I forgot to mension in my combo was my headers, they are ordinary Hedmann Headers 1"5/8 x 3". Are those good enough for the combo?

Thanks

Minella
 
Not really.

You should run 1 3/4" headers at a minimum, IMO.
 
Minella said:
Hello Guys!
I have a pair of Eddy's that I'll use Crane Gold rocker arms kit #69791-1 and I bought a Steel Mopar hold down clamps #4529740. During the assembly I saw that the aluminum rocker touch the steel clamps, so I'm concerned that the clamps will wear the aluminum rockers. Is this really heappens? Have I use aluminum clamps for those rockers?

Thank a lot,
Minella
Click to expand...

The aluminum holddowns are the way to go with the crane rockers.
Another thing to check is the number of adjuster threads showing when the pushrod has the correct preload. Each should have 1 1/2 - 2 1/2 threads showing. custom length pushrods may be in order.
 
i had a set of crane golds on my eddy heads and now they sit in a box in the garage because they didnt line up with the valve stem and were wearing out my guides. i called crane and they had no answers for me. now i run comp roller tips.
 
Dear Crackedback!
Yes, I know! But at the Dyno2003 says, I can gain 9 Hp with headers step headers 1 3/4" TTi. I'm from Brazil, and to import it to me it's worth $1250,00 in Brazil. Do you thing 9 Hp worth it? If you say the dyno desktop 2003 it's wrong tell me why!?

Thanks a lot, I think to me is the biggest issue,

Br,

Minella
 
Hello 388 Dart!
I think the best way to solve my problem, is your way. I'll try it.

Best regards,
Minella
 
I wouldn't put tti's on it.

If it's a race car, go with something else, like hooker super comps or hedman hustlers.

I wouldn't spend $1200 for 9 hp and maybe 20hp. Not a good trade off.
 
Hello Crackedback! Now I know you are reasonable, sorry!
The hooker headers are cheaper, but they are under the K-menber. This is a problem when you are leaving your home and going to the track. But it's a good advice any way! I like it, is cheap.
I thinking the best way in headers is to make a new one in Brazil, due to in USA they are or too expensive or too dumb!
This is my opinion, sorry. We don't have good supliers even in Brazil and USA for Headers A-bodies!.

Thanks for all!

Minella
 
Can anyone make you a set locally? You may want to see if this is an alternative to save you a few bucks if you can get the tuning and flanges.
 
jaxle said:
i had a set of crane golds on my eddy heads and now they sit in a box in the garage because they didnt line up with the valve stem and were wearing out my guides. i called crane and they had no answers for me. now i run comp roller tips.
Click to expand...

Exactly how did they not line up? Are you talking fore and aft or that the roller was not aligned with the center of the valve tip? Do you have pics to post?
 
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