Roll Cage help

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That's like the one I started with, mine was by CE but they are all the same. A year later I bought some tubing and bent the rest of the cage and added street bars and a couple thru the firewall to the front sub frames. It was cheaper and better designed.
 
Here is where I got my 10pt. It is actually bent for our cars, not one that kind of fits. You will still need a tubing notcher as all bars are sent long, like 6". and needs to be cut to fit. You will need to drill holes in floor to let cage drop down to weld tops of bars.
http://autoweldchassis.com/rbc.ivnu
 
Jo Diesel said:
Here is where I got my 10pt. It is actually bent for our cars, not one that kind of fits. You will still need a tubing notcher as all bars are sent long, like 6". and needs to be cut to fit. You will need to drill holes in floor to let cage drop down to weld tops of bars.
http://autoweldchassis.com/rbc.ivnu
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that`s the one I used, but bent the side bars myself, (to fit my 68 fish) so they would clear the armrests and tie in to the floor a little closer, so I wouldn`t have to use a swing out kit. I do have a new in the box swing-out kit for 1 3/4" down bars if you decide to go that way. can save you a couple $----bob
 
jo diesel said:
here is where i got my 10pt. It is actually bent for our cars, not one that kind of fits. You will still need a tubing notcher as all bars are sent long, like 6". And needs to be cut to fit. You will need to drill holes in floor to let cage drop down to weld tops of bars.
http://autoweldchassis.com/rbc.ivnu
Click to expand...

cool site looks like it is less work in the long run.
 
I got a Competition Engineering kit from Summit. The main hoop was a perfect fit.
 
I got a CE kit and it fits just fine. So. To answer your question. Yes, I would recommend it. You will need more plates if you intend to follow NHRA rules. On a unibody you're supposed to sandwich the body between two plates. Or weld the entire plate to the floor. That scares the hell out of me though.
 
Leadfoot said:
I got a CE kit and it fits just fine. So. To answer your question. Yes, I would recommend it. You will need more plates if you intend to follow NHRA rules. On a unibody you're supposed to sandwich the body between two plates. Or weld the entire plate to the floor. That scares the hell out of me though.
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bent mine to conform to the floor, and welded them in. the main hoop plates are welded to the 2" sq. tubing that comes thru the floor between the frame rails also. diidn`t use the #7-8 bars because of that.--bob
 
I bought a kit from Chris alston, only thing i ended up using was the main hoop. I would suggest not using a halo style cage, i believe using a full a pillar bar to the main hoop with the brow bar is stronger. If this is just a racecar or your not real picky then buy a kit. I understand building on a budget, just depends on what you want in the end.
 
Well considering, I don't have a TIG/MIG,or a notch. What would be the best bet?
 
Retson said:
Well considering, I don't have a TIG/MIG,or a notch. What would be the best bet?
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By a harbor freight notcher,it will get to by for one cage, it has to be mig or tig welded so your either going to have to buy a cheap unit or pay someone else to do it. Do you know how to weld?
 
junior636 said:
By a harbor freight notcher,it will get to by for one cage, it has to be mig or tig welded so your either going to have to buy a cheap unit or pay someone else to do it. Do you know how to weld?
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Okay cool, the notch is 50 bucks. I've never welded before, so I guess I'll have to pay someone to do it?
 
If that is the kit you are using....I bought one of those for our 71 Dart...Only thing I did not like was the rear bars are shorter then what i wanted...I want the rear bars to go to the rear trunk area....So i got another set of longer bars to use...outside of that...just about as same as any other roll bar kit
 
Retson said:
Okay cool, the notch is 50 bucks. I've never welded before, so I guess I'll have to pay someone to do it?
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No offense here but if you can't weld and your already shopping around for the cheapest kit, I'm not sure your going to be able to afford to pay someone to build a cage for you. No sense in buying a notcher if you can't weld or don't have anyway to have someone weld it up. For an 8 point your looking at $1,000 to $2,000 to have a cage installed. $1,000 is extreme low end, guy in his garage somewhere price.
 
junior636 said:
No offense here but if you can't weld and your already shopping around for the cheapest kit, I'm not sure your going to be able to afford to pay someone to build a cage for you. No sense in buying a notcher if you can't weld or don't have anyway to have someone weld it up. For an 8 point your looking at $1,000 to $2,000 to have a cage installed. $1,000 is extreme low end, guy in his garage somewhere price.
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I'm just trying to find the best options. What about a 4 point?
 
Retson said:
Well considering, I don't have a TIG/MIG,or a notch. What would be the best bet?
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You'll need a notcher for any of the kits but they are cheap.

Retson said:
Okay cool, the notch is 50 bucks. I've never welded before, so I guess I'll have to pay someone to do it?
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You could fit and tack everything and have someone do the finish welds. That would save you a ton. The welding is the cheap part. The fitment takes time.
 
roccodart440 said:
You'll need a notcher for any of the kits but they are cheap.



You could fit and tack everything and have someone do the finish welds. That would save you a ton. The welding is the cheap part. The fitment takes time.
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Well I know how to tac weld! My dad had a 120 volt Mig before my parents divorced. Would a 90 volt mig from Harbor freight be good for tacs?
 
Retson said:
Well I know how to tac weld! My dad had a 120 volt Mig before my parents divorced. Would a 90 volt mig from Harbor freight be good for tacs?
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I don't know. Mine is a 175 miller.
 
Any kit you buy you are going to have to massage it in all areas. I bought a kit from
http://autoweldchassis.com/rbc.ivnu for the Scamp.... He had to bend me a new Halo because it did not fit correctly. The newer cars headliner "1973" hangs a bit lower than older A bodies. I bought there 8 point Chromoly cage and turned it into a 14 pt by the time I was done.

I also agree with Junior. It would be way easier to have the A pillar go all the way to the Main Hoop. Doing the Halo and then trying to cut the A Pillar into the Halo is...... Well a ***** and when you get done you have to do another one..... Lol , not to mention stronger without the Halo.

I used a Competition Engineering kit I believe for my 67 Dart..... It fit like CRAP , Main hoop was bent. I had to heat it up at the floor and use a come along to straighten it out.
 
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