Roll cage kit manufacturer?

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Cope

Cope

Fusing with fire
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Im looking to buy a serious cage kit for my 1971 dart.

Im looking at this companys 14 point kit.

autoweldchassis.com. link wont copy and paste?

Seems like a good price with out checking shipping yet.
anyone use these folks?

or have a company they recomend?

whats good and whats not?
I have all the tools and skills to weld it and cut or rebend the tube I just dont want the hassle of building a cage from scratch.

It is important that the tube be appropriate material to pass technical inspection.

Thanks again for all your time and advice.
 
I just ordered and am installing a compition engineering (moroso) from summit. Everything is going fine and fitting well. Of course the parts are to spec.
 
S&W in PA

Alston Chassisworks in Sacramento area

Shipping on a full cage is usually pretty steep.
 
No local chassie shops??...i had mine installed by a local shop rollbar is just the way I wanted it..not some one fits all kit..
 
I have a S&W roll bar in my Dart, everything was long to allow a nice tight fit. I ordered the pro street bars for the rear but they weren't in the kit so I called, they were at my house two days later. Good folks to deal with.
 
stroked340 said:
No local chassie shops??...i had mine installed by a local shop rollbar is just the way I wanted it..not some one fits all kit..
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How much did that cost? My one size fits all fits within a half inch everywhere. And I'm welding it because as you know if you want something done right.....
 
J Par, what's the part number of the kit you orderd and what car are you fitting it in to?

on summit the 12 point dodge kit only lists applications back to 2008?

Thanks again.
 
Cope said:
J Par, what's the part number of the kit you orderd and what car are you fitting it in to?

on summit the 12 point dodge kit only lists applications back to 2008?

Thanks again.
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Competition engineering 8 point Roll cage kit 3123 - K (fits my 73 duster)
Of course you'll see on the summit website they have complete kits 12-10 point whatever you're looking for or you can buy a smaller can't like I did and add on as needed or as wanted. I'm going to add a bunch of big gussets and an extra bar or two where I want them.
 
Buy a kit for a Dart.

Stay away from a kit for a Duster/Demon or 67-69 barracuda

A good roll cage will be specific for each style of car, not a generic kit for all A body cars. They require different hoops and down bars.
 
crackedback said:
Buy a kit for a Dart.

Stay away from a kit for a Duster/Demon or 67-69 barracuda

A good roll cage will be specific for each style of car, not a generic kit for all A body cars. They require different hoops and down bars.
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Agreed x 2 ! !!
And of course as always I'm just saying what work for me.
 
j par said:
How much did that cost? My one size fits all fits within a half inch everywhere. And I'm welding it because as you know if you want something done right.....
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Cost me $1200.00 for a chrome moly 6-point w/swingout installed..make sure who ever does the welding knows what they're doing,have seen many bars that looked like "mickey mouse" welded them,NOT pass tech at the track..
 
stroked340 said:
Cost me $1200.00 for a chrome moly 6-point w/swingout installed..make sure who ever does the welding knows what they're doing,have seen many bars that looked like "mickey mouse" welded them,NOT pass tech at the track..
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$1200 !! Ee-gad ! I'm less than $400 into my 8-point and homemade frame connectors no/swingout (don't want one). I was moving the spring perches on my old 8 3/4 out in the driveway last summer and my wife came out and said "shouldn't you have a professional do that?" I said- here's the factory weld that's lasted 45 years and here's my weld (much much better) she said "continue on".
I know who's doing my welding- THE PERSON WHO'S LIFE IS DEPENDING ON IT !! :coffee2:
 
stroked340 said:
Cost me $1200.00 for a chrome moly 6-point w/swingout installed..make sure who ever does the welding knows what they're doing,have seen many bars that looked like "mickey mouse" welded them,NOT pass tech at the track..
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Not pass tech? Or under 10 second certification ?
I've not yet seen a track tech do weld inspection for a car doing over 10 seconds in the 1/4.
I'm still new at all this so maybe I'm missing something ?
 
roll bar is legal to 10.00 flat...roll cage is required for 9.99 and faster and the cage must be certified...roll bars do not have to be certified...
 
If you have a bender i would recommend getting some tube and going to work. I ordered a kit and ended up re bending or remaking just about everything but I'm kind of picky on fitment.
 
j par said:
$1200 !! Ee-gad ! I'm less than $400 into my 8-point and homemade frame connectors no/swingout (don't want one). I was moving the spring perches on my old 8 3/4 out in the driveway last summer and my wife came out and said "shouldn't you have a professional do that?" I said- here's the factory weld that's lasted 45 years and here's my weld (much much better) she said "continue on".
I know who's doing my welding- THE PERSON WHO'S LIFE IS DEPENDING ON IT !! :coffee2:
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Your kit is not chrome moly. Is your kit tig welded? Chrome moly is, big difference in labor costs for mig and tig.
 
Rhodes Race Cars in Crete Illinois. I bought their eight point and did a mock up, fit very nice, and the price was good.
 
justinp61 said:
Your kit is not chrome moly. Is your kit tig welded? Chrome moly is, big difference in labor costs for mig and tig.
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I already know, no, and I already know

several people over the years have inquired about the weight differences between these two metals. when somebody states the fact that a particular component is lighter weight due to it being constructed of chromemoly(vs. mild steel) they are for the most part *wrong*. the two materials are the same mass for equal amounts of whatever part.*
this misconception is largely due to the NHRA rules of rollcage specs. people say that its lighter because its moly, well true, compared to the same NHRA legal spec between the two materials. heres why. on the spec'd tubes in a roll cage NHRA minimum wall thickness is .083 for chromemoly, .118 for mild steel. this is per the sonic wall test equipment that the certification members use. the difference in weight between the two is the wall thickness, not the mass of the material. it takes that much more mild steel to be comparable in strength to 4130N chromemoly tube. I do not claim to be a metalurgist, but i've been in this business long enough and built enough cars that i can tell you this.
depending on manufacturers, some choose to use different grades of mild steel. the two most common used in roll cages are 1020 DOM, and ERW commonly called electraweld. DOM tubing keeps a much better manufacturing tolerance than ERW, therefore a thinner wall will certify. ERW cages most often use .134 wall tubing to be able to certify. prices of the material are as expected with this. moly is the most costly, followed by DOM, then ERW.*
the bigest difference between the mild steel and the chromemoly material is strength. the 4130 chromemoly(normalized material) compared to 1010 or 1020 mild is much stronger, due to a hardening process, and the alloy composition of the steel. two identical pieces of material, the moly will be stronger than the mild steel and WEIGH THE SAME!
In the end... don't be fooled by a person trying to sell a component that is lighter because its made from chromemoly. call the manufacturer and get the facts!
:happy1:
 
I'm not sure what your point is, the facts are that .083 CM is as strong and lighter than .118 MS. I was merely point out that CM bars or cages are more expensive than MS so comparing the two are apples to oranges.
 
justinp61 said:
I'm not sure what your point is, the facts are that .083 CM is as strong and lighter than .118 MS. I was merely point out that CM bars or cages are more expensive than MS so comparing the two are apples to oranges.
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Oh my point?? My point is no s*** Sherlock! LOL
 
Well I accualy was thinking about getting the summit 12 point for the 1971 Plymouth Duster.

Why do you (Crackedback) advise against it?

Im having a hard time finding a "kit" that is made for a 71 dart.

I have been T.I.G. welding since 2000 and can stack dimes.

I have read some horror stories about folks paying big bucks for a "custom cage" and they still fail tech.

I dont know that my car will break into the 9s but I want to feal safe when I run this car.


Yes I have a bender. I was thinking I could massage a generic kit with some bending into something that would make me happy and safe.

I guess I should call the steele place and see what the want for tube. (DOM)

Like I said I dont know how fast I can afford to make this car but it will be running alot of rear tire and powered by a forced induction big block. God willing it may never see the wall up close but if/when it dose I want to be alive after.

This build is not a throw it together build so im in no hurry. I plan on doing it right and taking how ever much time it takes to get there.

Thanks again for the time and advice.
 
The main hoop is the biggest thing to look at. Measuring from inside of doors (width) and from floor to ceiling (height). I can measure mine and tell ya what I got as my main hoop fit perfectly ootb. All other pieces were extra long and had to be trimmed to fit anyways. I could see opening it up to make it wider or squeezing it a little and even trimming it to make it shorter. Really the only problem I could see is if it wasn't tall enough. And again that's the 3123-k kit from summit (mild steel) for a 73 duster.
 
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