Roller cam and lifters question

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B3422w5

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If I were to go to a roller cam, I have heard the Bamm lifters are nice pieces.
My lifter bores are bushed. They drilled holes in the bushings to facilitate oiling.
I was told the other day that they recommend welding shut the oil hole in the Bamm lifters in order to run them with what I have going on.
Hadn’t ever heard of doing that before. He said not doing it creates excess windage.
Thoughts on that. Was told they do this mod to all the Mopar small blocks setup like mine
 
Did he explain the "excess windage" comment? Do the Bamm's have a passage axle oiling?
 
I use HIPPO lifters in mine. My engine builder likes them and they have been in there quite some time without issue.
 
If I were to go to a roller cam, I have heard the Bamm lifters are nice pieces.
My lifter bores are bushed. They drilled holes in the bushings to facilitate oiling.
I was told the other day that they recommend welding shut the oil hole in the Bamm lifters in order to run them with what I have going on.
Hadn’t ever heard of doing that before. He said not doing it creates excess windage.
Thoughts on that. Was told they do this mod to all the Mopar small blocks setup like mine

I wonder if this is the modification @IQ52 did in this other thread. Page 6, post 126. He mentioned a large amount of oil flow from the lifter itself.

who is running MRL (BAM) Lifters without lifter bore sleeves
 
It’s the pin/needle bearing oiling that gushes. Not the pushrod cup. I failed an engine that I built (for someone else) because of needle bearing roller lifters (not Bamm) and won’t run them ever again. I like bushed solid rollers with pin oiling. I’m very happy with the isky red zone lifters in my BBC.
 
If you want the benefit of proper pressure fed oiling to the axles, there’s going to be a bit of extra oil coming out the bottom of the lifter bores.
That’s just how it is.

The oil flow out the bottom of the BAM lifters is far less than some others I’ve seen.
On the BAM’s, it’s one tiny hole feeding the axles.
 
I'm a Bamm guy for a long time. I do run pushrod oiling, with bushed bores. I modify mine to get more oil to the rods. Works perfect.

I have run them with shaft oiling and a good set of rods with NO oiling hole, and had no issues whatsoever. As long as your bores are bushed, I would run those things as they come and not think twice about it. it's FACTORY lifter bores that cause a "leak" at the bottom of the lifter. Trust me. Been there done that.

Been running them way back since MRL Racing first started selling them. 5 or 6 engines for me and others. Never a problem. Ever.

As a welder................if someone GAVE me a set of lifters that have been welded, I'd throw them away. I don't care if it's MIG or TIG it will kill the lifespan. Heat is our enemy. I believe from your posts you probably know way more than me, but just throw it all together minus the intake and spin that oil pump. You know what to look for.:thumbsup:
 
I went through lifter research recently and had to call a couple of companies because they didn't have all the information on their various websites, and some I never found all the info or couldn't get through to a human. The Hughes 2018-16 have pressure fed axle oiling, pushrod oiling, and use a needle bearing.

VendorManufacturerModelRoller DiaBearing TypePressure fedPR oilingPrice
HughesBAM2018-160.815NeedleYesYes
$950​
HughesMorel47230.750??No
$475​
HughesHowards917340.750?YesYes
$815​
Hughes? JCI53280.810?YesYes
$1,317​
SummitComp9643-160.750NeedleYesNo ?
$890​
SummitComp9643B-160.750BushingYesNo ?
$1,250​

If anyone can help fill in the blanks, I'd appreciate it.
 
I went through lifter research recently and had to call a couple of companies because they didn't have all the information on their various websites, and some I never found all the info or couldn't get through to a human. The Hughes 2018-16 have pressure fed axle oiling, pushrod oiling, and use a needle bearing.

VendorManufacturerModelRoller DiaBearing TypePressure fedPR oilingPrice
HughesBAM2018-160.815NeedleYesYes
$950​
HughesMorel47230.750??No
$475​
HughesHowards917340.750?YesYes
$815​
Hughes? JCI53280.810?YesYes
$1,317​
SummitComp9643-160.750NeedleYesNo ?
$890​
SummitComp9643B-160.750BushingYesNo ?
$1,250​

If anyone can help fill in the blanks, I'd appreciate it.


There are only two part numbers there I’d consider using.
 
What two do you find to be the best?

I don’t care if they are needle bearing or bushed, if they don’t have a wheel that is .800 diameter or bigger I won’t use them.


Most lifters fail for the same few reasons.

1. Not enough spring load. It will kill a roller lifter so fast it’s crazy. It’s the opposite of a flat tappet lifter. Since the vast majority of us started out with those lifters we think of high spring pressure as a negative. Bill Jenkins addressed this in 1975. The only difference is cam lobes today are so much more aggressive and valve weights have gone up so much the required spring pressure to control the valve train is higher.

2. Low idle speed. This is a slow death on lifters. Even flat tappet stuff gets killed with low idle rpm. The flat tappet lifter has to rotate to live. With say, 360 pounds over the nose, the slow idle can reduce or stop lifter rotation and they die.

The roller wheel, when slowed down no longer rolls but starts skidding. When it’s skidding the needles riding on the axle don’t rotate either. They skid too. It doesn’t take long and the needles get a flat spot and then they **** the bed.

Bushed lifters have the same issue except they are a bit more forgiving. At low rpm idle the axle will basically wiggle, flat spot the axle or the bushing or both and the grim reaper is at the door.

If you listen and pay attention you can hear a bushed lifter squeak if it’s under duress and about to fail. That’s the canary in the coal mine. Ignore the squeak and the bed will be full of poo in short order.

Dirty oil kills both types of roller lifters too.

3. Low oil pressure at idle. It’s bad with needle bearings but it’s death on a bushed lifter. The needle bearings can survive on much less oil than a bushed lifter. The bushed lifter must have pressurized oil to the bushing. If it’s not getting oil before the pressure on the gauge is low death is near.

If the gauge says 20 psi that’s at the gauge. Most guys running bushed lifters are using aftermarket blocks with priority main piling rather than oil the lifters first oiling on the vast majority of OEM blocks. On priority main piling systems the lifters are at the end of the line.

That 20 psi on the gauge may only be 10 or 5 or even zero at the lifter. At that point a catastrophic event is st hand.

Small diameter wheels and those three things are the root causes of the vast majority of lifter failures.

Edit: I forgot to mention that Steve Morris posted a video on his YouTube channel about his lifter failure at Drag Week this year. I think it was Drag Week but it was a drag and drive event non the less.

He killed some lifters and he explains why they failed. Operator error is the short answer but watch the video and see what he says.

I almost forgot. In the 1990’s and early 2000’s it was all the rage to keep the ignition off and crank the engine until it had oil pressure. That is DEATH for ANY lifter. Never ever do that, even in a flat tappet cam that’s broken in. It will kill it.

I almost forgot to mention it because you don’t see it much anymore.

I was pitted next to a guy for the weekend. Didn’t know him from Adam. I could hear him cranking and cranking on it Saturday morning.

Sunday he was doing it again so I walked around the trailer to see what he was doing. When I saw him cranking it over to get oil pressure I ran up to him and knock that off. You’ll kill a lifter.

He got pissy with me and said his engine builder told him to do it. I said fire that jackass and get a new engine builder. He wasn’t pleased with that but who cares? He needed to know.

He made it to round 3. He was driving up to the staging lanes and guess what? It **** a lifter. I wanted to laugh and say I told you so but I didn’t. He was done for the day and had a bunch of work to do and money to spend.

Several years later someone mentioned his name and I happened to remember him. Turns out he was from California and he had passed away.

I mentioned the above story and a couple of guys started laughing. I found out HE was the engine builder. And he had all of his customers doing the same thing.

It’s pretty hard to fire yourself but he should have.
 
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I don’t care if they are needle bearing or bushed, if they don’t have a wheel that is .800 diameter or bigger I won’t use them.


Most lifters fail for the same few reasons.

1. Not enough spring load. It will kill a roller lifter so fast it’s crazy. It’s the opposite of a flat tappet lifter. Since the vast majority of us started out with those lifters we think of high spring pressure as a negative. Bill Jenkins addressed this in 1975. The only difference is cam lobes today are so much more aggressive and valve weights have gone up so much the required spring pressure to control the valve train is higher.

2. Low idle speed. This is a slow death on lifters. Even flat tappet stuff gets killed with low idle rpm. The flat tappet lifter has to rotate to live. With say, 360 pounds over the nose, the slow idle can reduce or stop lifter rotation and they die.

The roller wheel, when slowed down no longer rolls but starts skidding. When it’s skidding the needles riding on the axle don’t rotate either. They skid too. It doesn’t take long and the needles get a flat spot and then they **** the bed.

Bushed lifters have the same issue except they are a bit more forgiving. At low rpm idle the axle will basically wiggle, flat spot the axle or the bushing or both and the grim reaper is at the door.

If you listen and pay attention you can hear a bushed lifter squeak if it’s under duress and about to fail. That’s the canary in the coal mine. Ignore the squeak and the bed will be full of poo in short order.

Dirty oil kills both types of roller lifters too.

3. Low oil pressure at idle. It’s bad with needle bearings but it’s death on a bushed lifter. The needle bearings can survive on much less oil than a bushed lifter. The bushed lifter must have pressurized oil to the bushing. If it’s not getting oil before the pressure on the gauge is low death is near.

If the gauge says 20 psi that’s at the gauge. Most guys running bushed lifters are using aftermarket blocks with priority main piling rather than oil the lifters first oiling on the vast majority of OEM blocks. On priority main piling systems the lifters are at the end of the line.

That 20 psi on the gauge may only be 10 or 5 or even zero at the lifter. At that point a catastrophic event is st hand.

Small diameter wheels and those three things are the root causes of the vast majority of lifter failures.

Edit: I forgot to mention that Steve Morris posted a video on his YouTube channel about his lifter failure at Drag Week this year. I think it was Drag Week but it was a drag and drive event non the less.

He killed some lifters and he explains why they failed. Operator error is the short answer but watch the video and see what he says.

I almost forgot. In the 1990’s and early 2000’s it was all the rage to keep the ignition off and crank the engine until it had oil pressure. That is DEATH for ANY lifter. Never ever do that, even in a flat tappet cam that’s broken in. It will kill it.

I almost forgot to mention it because you don’t see it much anymore.

I was pitted next to a guy for the weekend. Didn’t know him from Adam. I could hear him cranking and cranking on it Saturday morning.

Sunday he was doing it again so I walked around the trailer to see what he was doing. When I saw him cranking it over to get oil pressure I ran up to him and knock that off. You’ll kill a lifter.

He got pissy with me and said his engine builder told him to do it. I said fire that jackass and get a new engine builder. He wasn’t pleased with that but who cares? He needed to know.

He made it to round 3. He was driving up to the staging lanes and guess what? It **** a lifter. I wanted to laugh and say I told you so but I didn’t. He was done for the day and had a bunch of work to do and money to spend.

Several years later someone mentioned his name and I happened to remember him. Turns out he was from California and he had passed away.

I mentioned the above story and a couple of guys started laughing. I found out HE was the engine builder. And he had all of his customers doing the same thing.

It’s pretty hard to fire yourself but he should have.
Excellent post
 
Guys should really pay attention to the above post about spring pressure and roller lifters. If you bounce a flat tappet, you just stop making power. If you bounce a roller, the cam (and lifter) will have a very short life.
 
So, it's better to spring on the heavy side of acceptable with a roller?
Absolutely, no need to go crazy though as it’s just wasted energy. But the ramps are much more aggressive and the lifter itself is much heavier. You do not want to loose control of a roller lifter. Id rather have too much than not enough.
 

So, it's better to spring on the heavy side of acceptable with a roller?


See post 21 but I’ll add that hydraulic rollers are different than solid rollers in that even though the lobes are faster than a HFT lobe they are nowhere near a solid roller lobe. Between that and the hydraulics you don’t need as much spring load with hydraulic rollers.

If you take the “antique” W2 head and look at valve lengths compared to stock small block valve lengths and they are much longer. That adds weight to the valve and it takes more spring load to control the valve with the same lobe and same rpm.

The biggest modification you can do to improve W2 flow is a 2.08 valve. That bigger valve diameter adds weight. So you need to account for that with spring load or reduced rpm or both.

The W5 uses the same length valve as the W2 but the W7-8-9 heads use even bigger valve diameters and lengths. How do we control that? More spring load or less rpm or both.

There will be a point where you just can not add more spring load. Like the fasteners can’t take the load and everything starts flexing and then failing.

Or you get to the limit of the ability of the lifter to handle the spring loads.

In those cases you have some options and none of them are cheap and most aren’t easy. I’ll not say limit rpm because at this point you are using as much rpm as you can

So, reduce valve weight. You can do that by reducing stem diameters to 5/16 or even 7mm. I know some guys were playing with 6mm stems but that kind of went way. That’s about .240 stem diameter and with a valve diameter of 2.300 and much more that stem size can be sketchy.

The next option is to switch to titanium valves. Yeah, that will make you wet your boxers. The cost of the valves is one thing. It’s another when you add on the cost of using nickel-bronze or beryllium-copper valve seats. They are not inexpensive and most shops charge a premium to do a valve job on seats like that.

Another issue to address is lifter diameter. Bigger spring loads and aggressive lobes with a copious amount of rpm require bigger wheels on the lifters. Bigger than .815 which is the biggest I’ve seen with a .903 lifter body.

I know there are .937 lifters and IIRC 1.0xx lifters and who knows how much bigger you can get. At some point you you run out of room for bigger lifter bodies and you are stuck.

There is a reason why I lose sleep at night if have build a roller cam engine and the owner starts cutting corners.

Being a cheap screw with roller cams means you risk a catastrophic failure that’s far more expensive than if it was done correctly in the first place.

That’s why for all their shortcomings I still use titanium retainers on roller cams. A standard 10 degree steel retainer is stupid heavy for roller lobes. So I prefer Ti or lightweight steel retainers for roller cams always.

There is no one correct answer for this stuff but that’s a relatively short summation of it.
 
So, Turk, what do you consider a low engine idle speed?
What is the minimum in your opinion for any engine that has a high lift cam in it regardless of the lifter style?
How about oil recommendations for such engines be it flat tappet or roller?
Synthetics or racing oil with ZZDP across the board, which brand and weight?
That has to factor in it as well with cam and engine longevity in most applications.
Please school us on your findings, it sure seems like you have a lot of experience in these vital issues.
Thank you for your input, your comments have been very informative so far and make a lot of sense to me...
 
I always set my idle high for some of the reasons mentioned( btw, great post)
It’s easier on the cam and lifters, as noted, and I run a 1 wire alternator, and want to keep it “ excited” to where it’s pumping out juice. Try to never let my stuff, if I can help it, get below 1100 rpm.
 
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