rollerlifters.
- Thread starter 1Fast340
- Start date
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Just run the right lifters. MRL sells them.
already have a set of complifters with the inboard lifterbar.
The lifter bar placement is nice and all but has nothing to do with the oiling groove. I would sell those and get the MRL lifters.
I can not answer that question but I can tell you 2 things;
1: The MRL lifters have a oil band that is lower on the lifter so the problem doesn't happen
2: contact MRL himself. Do a search on his. And and PM or call him.
1: The MRL lifters have a oil band that is lower on the lifter so the problem doesn't happen
2: contact MRL himself. Do a search on his. And and PM or call him.
I thought the topic WAS the location of the lifter oil groove. The MRL lifters have a lower oil groove and eliminate the problem as rumblefish said.
If that's not on topic, then forget I ever tried to help.
I just prefer figuring out how to correctly measure the limitations of parts at hand before starting to trow more money at a potentialy non existing problem
And as this is quite a good mesage board i suspect that this could help others aswell.
Yes i know, we all like to play with cars and playing with cars for some reason means that we all like to trow money at problems that dont exist until we create a problem i just prefer to be able to trow money at other non existing problems at this time :blob:
swinger340
Well-Known Member
Hydrolic or solid? I have a set of the older comp solid rollers in one of my 340s. Oil pressure was lost at around .600 lift. The engine was already done when I got it and runs plenty strong. The builder ended up going with a .555/.566 comp cam to be safe. Pretty mild cam for a solid roller, but that is all the lifters would safely allow.
I have .645 lift (.430 lobe lift) on my cam. With the MRL lifters, there was PLENTY of room for more lift in my block. I want to say that I asked Mike about how much they could do and it was something (assuming 1.5 rocker) close to .800 IIRC? At any rate, if you have anything less than .700 lift, you wouldn't have any issues with MRL lifters. With Comp, I wouldn't know. I think you'd have to mock it up in your block to know for sure wouldn't you? Some blocks have a deep chamfer in the lifter bores which can allow the oiling groove to come out at lower lift than other blocks. My block had light chamfers so I had lots of room for more lift.
DaveBonds
Garage Trash
The only real world knowledge is to measure the lifter in question with a dial indicator, off of a cam that has the same base circle diameter as the cam you are going to use. Measure the total lift with the dial indicator and give yourself a window of at least .010" before you see the groove come out of the bore.
As long as the groove is seated in the bore, within that tolerance, you should be ok.
A phone call to the manufacturer can get you close, but each block and set of lifter bores is a little different.
As long as the groove is seated in the bore, within that tolerance, you should be ok.
A phone call to the manufacturer can get you close, but each block and set of lifter bores is a little different.
mderoy340
Well-Known Member
If you already have a cam installed you can rotate the cam and check if the oil groove in the lifter ever rises above the lifter bore. Make sure you check all of them. read the hughes link http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/...el2=Um9sbGVy&level3=SHlkcmF1bGlj&partid=25167
You could also place a cam on the base circle and raise the lifter to a safe level and get an approx measurement. Mike at MRL is also a Comp dealer and I'm sure he would be glad to help.
You could also place a cam on the base circle and raise the lifter to a safe level and get an approx measurement. Mike at MRL is also a Comp dealer and I'm sure he would be glad to help.
its solid roller lifters.
never thought of the potential problem of having a problem at the top of the lifterbores,i thought the possible problem was at the other end of the lifter,where the cutout for the lifterwheel might expose the gallery in the lifterbores and i just cant figure out a good way to measure this,i gues i learn more stuff everyday to check
never thought of the potential problem of having a problem at the top of the lifterbores,i thought the possible problem was at the other end of the lifter,where the cutout for the lifterwheel might expose the gallery in the lifterbores and i just cant figure out a good way to measure this,i gues i learn more stuff everyday to check
my idea was to do the exact oposit thing, figure out how much i uncover the oilinggallery with a current cam that i dont wish to use for this build and order my new cam with a reduced base to avoid the problem without trowing more money at the build. but i just cant figure out how to get any good tool into the lifterbore to figure out how close to exposing the oilgalery the lifterwheel actualy is.
Then do it your way. Why the hell are you even asking us then?
Sir let me politly ask you one simple question. have you read my actual question?
while the information about lifters of a different design than my current lifters are helpfull incase my current lifters end up being unusable for my purposes im still trying to figure out how to use the parts i already have at hand.
i cant be the first and only unapprecieating idiot on this planet that has ever tried to figure out a good way of measuring first and order parts later.
Sure I read it. It's not an uncommon or unknown problem. It is also something that will vary from block to block.....even lifter bore to lifter bore. Why? Because some lifter bores are chamfered on the inside top edge reducing the amount that the lifter can come out of the bore before it exposes the oil groove. It's not something you can simply measure once and have a definite answer because of all of the machining differences. I have seen blocks have about half chamfered and half non chamfered bores, all chamfered, a few, or even none at all. So it simply depends on YOUR block. No one can answer your question but you. BUT we CAN offer a viable alternative that will WORK. Those are the MRL lifters. You've been informed about them, yet you keep shooting it down. SO, have fun with yourself.
And as for you being unappreciating, I can't argue with you there.
And as for you being unappreciating, I can't argue with you there.
yes we all know that mopars machinework sucks as far as consisteny goes.
im still not talking about the top of the lifterbore,im talking about the holes inside the lifterbores. and i just cant figure out how to measure there location in relation to the base of the cam thanks to the moparsmallblocks fantastic lifterangle:banghead:
Let him cry and whine on Rusty. He'll either figure it out or not d o it at all. He thick, that's all.
The 'Hughes' lifters also have the lower oil band, but I have just finished an engine here that had to be bushed because even with the lower oil band it was exposed on a couple of lifter bores with a deeper chamfer than some of the others.
who is crying and whining? im politly asking for advice on how to measure a certain aspect of an engine and all im getting is answers to something that isnt even close to what im asking for.
am i the only one that ever tried to figure out what tool to use instead of just trowing money at a problem that might not even exist in a enginebuild?
80fbody
Well-Known Member
I'm with you Fast. See know reason to have your balls broke for what you asked. Plenty of motors been running comps for years. Long before MRL rollers existed. Can you pull one the galley plugs and at least look at the end rollers? Since you have rockers if there is an issue I'd check into bushing the block. Better to spend the money there in my opinion.
Thanks thats some good advice
rayer:,seems simple enough to make me wonder why i didnt think of it,i have been way to busy trying to figure out how to create a tool for measuring this and missed the obvious:banghead:,your idea seem like it should work quite well,and might work even better with the assist of a strong light upwards thru the crankcase. since im anyway planing on swaping my current cam i might not even need to bush the block if i have a small problem since i can just order the cam with a reduced basecircle:blob:
Thanks thats a good base to look at on this isue,its just a shame that all these blocks are different when it comes to machining and castingprecision, im looking at a few different cams all of them alitle bigger than you current cam but not much bigger,we will see how this turns out;)
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