Rubber fuel line
- Thread starter steve2724
- Start date
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72Dart6pack
Harder Better Faster Stronger.
Keep your rubber line as short as possible. Use steel line is what most people are going to say. I agree.
Krooser
Building Chinese Free Engines since 1959...
Use a good quality fuel injection neoprene line and you'll be fine... just be careful to keep it away from any heat source.
65wgn440
Well-Known Member
If you ever decide to take it to the track, I believe it can't be more than 12" in length.
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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I've had my *** kicked so many times for this but give to me one more time, I don't care.
For street use, and
for 437 or less hp
IMO
Going electric introduces way more problems than it solves.
Here's my recipe, copy it if you like.....or not. But it's been trouble free since 1999. and car goes 93 in the 1/8th, and pulls cleanly to 7200 every day of it's life.
Stock steel tank, vented cap. Sender modified with a 3/8 supply pick-up by myself. 3/8 in-tank sock installed.3/8 steel line to large canister EFI filter located in pocket just ahead of the p-side front spring perch. Here it is screwed into the filter. The outlet side is barbed. Then steel tube routed forward and into the front stubframe and exits the frame at the HO-mechanical pump. My engine is restrained with a Schumacher tie-bar, so there is very little movement of the engine, so I brought the line out in a little loop and butted the barbs together at the pump, as I did everywhere else. Then another 3/8 line from the pump to the dual-feed again barb to barb. There are a total of 4 hose connections. three on the suction side where I used factory type band-clamps, one per barb. And one short jumper on the pressure side,right at the dual-feed. Here I used a band-clamp on the steel line, and a pair if gear clamps, with the staggered joints, in the DF. Eventually,I cut the dual feed and bubble flared the ends and installed one more jumper there, so I could pull either bowl off without pulling the other. And a final pair of band clamps.
All fuel line is common 3/8 carb line.
All line was new in 1999, and none has ever been changed.
The EFI filter is on the suction side, was new in 99, and has never been changed.
There are no filters in the carb inlets.
The carb is a 750DP.
The pump is aP4007040
The floatvalves are from 1970s
Since 1999,I have burned,exclusively, 87E10.
I cannot hear the pump.
I keep a primer can under the hood, to juice it up, if I let the car sit for more than a few weeks, cuz the gas does evaporate away. I keep the gas stabilized, so it keeps it's potency.
There you have it. It just flat out works. It's Maintenance free, Quiet, and cheap.Life is good.
If it ever breaks down 500 miles from home, I can pull a pump off any SBM and keep on motoring in less than an hour.If the charge system quits, I can still drive 8 hours on just the ignition system.
How far will you drive with that pump sucking amps and pushing fuel around in a circle continuously?
For street use, and
for 437 or less hp
IMO
Going electric introduces way more problems than it solves.
Here's my recipe, copy it if you like.....or not. But it's been trouble free since 1999. and car goes 93 in the 1/8th, and pulls cleanly to 7200 every day of it's life.
Stock steel tank, vented cap. Sender modified with a 3/8 supply pick-up by myself. 3/8 in-tank sock installed.3/8 steel line to large canister EFI filter located in pocket just ahead of the p-side front spring perch. Here it is screwed into the filter. The outlet side is barbed. Then steel tube routed forward and into the front stubframe and exits the frame at the HO-mechanical pump. My engine is restrained with a Schumacher tie-bar, so there is very little movement of the engine, so I brought the line out in a little loop and butted the barbs together at the pump, as I did everywhere else. Then another 3/8 line from the pump to the dual-feed again barb to barb. There are a total of 4 hose connections. three on the suction side where I used factory type band-clamps, one per barb. And one short jumper on the pressure side,right at the dual-feed. Here I used a band-clamp on the steel line, and a pair if gear clamps, with the staggered joints, in the DF. Eventually,I cut the dual feed and bubble flared the ends and installed one more jumper there, so I could pull either bowl off without pulling the other. And a final pair of band clamps.
All fuel line is common 3/8 carb line.
All line was new in 1999, and none has ever been changed.
The EFI filter is on the suction side, was new in 99, and has never been changed.
There are no filters in the carb inlets.
The carb is a 750DP.
The pump is aP4007040
The floatvalves are from 1970s
Since 1999,I have burned,exclusively, 87E10.
I cannot hear the pump.
I keep a primer can under the hood, to juice it up, if I let the car sit for more than a few weeks, cuz the gas does evaporate away. I keep the gas stabilized, so it keeps it's potency.
There you have it. It just flat out works. It's Maintenance free, Quiet, and cheap.Life is good.
If it ever breaks down 500 miles from home, I can pull a pump off any SBM and keep on motoring in less than an hour.If the charge system quits, I can still drive 8 hours on just the ignition system.
How far will you drive with that pump sucking amps and pushing fuel around in a circle continuously?
Last edited:
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
A lot to be said for simplicity that's for sure.
I run a Carter electric back at the tank and 3/8 nylon 12 EFI fuel line from there all the way up to the carb and back to the tank where there is a 3/8 return nipple on the sending unit.
I don't run a regulator, but a restrictor orifice in the return to give my carb the pressure it needs.
This way I am set for any fuel system I might want later. (Carbed or any EFI)
Any way you go besides steel you are going to want EFI line and not just regular rubber fuel hose like we used to use.
I run a Carter electric back at the tank and 3/8 nylon 12 EFI fuel line from there all the way up to the carb and back to the tank where there is a 3/8 return nipple on the sending unit.
I don't run a regulator, but a restrictor orifice in the return to give my carb the pressure it needs.
This way I am set for any fuel system I might want later. (Carbed or any EFI)
Any way you go besides steel you are going to want EFI line and not just regular rubber fuel hose like we used to use.
N.H.R.A. Rule book states no more than 12in of rubber fuel line on entire car , if you do use Steel braided line it must have the proper A.N. Fittings for that line , the tech guys pick up on that all the time (if they care about your safety)
famous bob
mopar misfit
there is nhra accepted hi pressure fuel line.
Woven push stock . Not every weekend warrior wants to pay for A.N. fittings and steel braided line , the best alternative is what was said earlier in the post steel line with the least amount of rubber line (less than 12in) gotta love N.H.R.A. Tech guys ! Yup I’m that guy .....
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