Running without a thermostat ok?

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Uhhhh... Yeah !! Knowledge is Everything !! BTW , I may be coming down to Ga in a while. Maybe we can get together for a Beer?

Just one? I would love to. Let me know.
 
Poor guy's made over 35,000 posts on here. Then said he was done. Back at it, less than a week later. FABO is like ****** for him.


I'll just say one thing. OK, two.

1. RustyRatRod has a TON of knowledge about our Mopars. And he enjoys helping other solve their problems with their cars. If he gives advice and the original poster asks the exact same question again, he feels (rightly so) that his advice is not appreciated.

2. I think the original question about having a thermostat was covered well.
 
That was a good read Rob. Thanks!

I'm going thru some over heating at this time.

Holler at me if you want to and we will talk about it some. Do you still have my number? We'll figure something out, even if it's wrong.
 
This thread has been a good read for me also. I've been fighting 220+ temps at sustained higher speeds 65+ mph for quite some time....

I don't have a spring in the lower radiator hose & am wondering if there is actually a premade one available?
 
C, if you look in the thread earlier, there is a link to a Mustang site that has them ready made.
 
Yup, I posted that link for the mustang spring about a year ago. It's what I have in my lower hose. Fits perfectly and does it's job. $7 well spent.
 
For those who don't want to spend the $7 for a pre made lower hose spring, you may also be able to make one at home with an old metal style coat hanger and wrap it around something round similar to the hose but a little smaller diameter....
 
I was contributing, I asked a question and was called stupid, and told to "get a FSM" so I would'nt have to ask a question, it gets old.


Instead of arguing with RRR, why not download some service manuals???

http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=109


There is alot of good information in them, that is valuable in getting our cars back running like they should. :violent1:

I learned the hard way on our first engine build how valuable that the service manual can be. The guy at the parts store told us the wrong way to install the crank bearings, and we ended up scrapping our crank and had to buy a new one. :violent1:

After that we referred to the service manual and got it right. Since then, we use the service manual as our bible. I have a full set of repro service manuals in both Plymouth and Dodge covering from 64 - 74... The factory service manual is better information than you can get in a Chiltons or Haynes service manuals.. :farao:


RRR is a good guy and has a lifetime of experience to share and help us with. If you listen to him and follow what he's saying, he knows what he's talking about. If you broke down near his house, he would be the first one there to help you... :prayer:
 
instead of arguing with rrr, why not download some service manuals???

http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=109


there is alot of good information in them, that is valuable in getting our cars back running like they should. :violent1:

I learned the hard way on our first engine build how valuable that the service manual can be. The guy at the parts store told us the wrong way to install the crank bearings, and we ended up scrapping our crank and had to buy a new one. :violent1:

After that we referred to the service manual and got it right. Since then, we use the service manual as our bible. I have a full set of repro service manuals in both plymouth and dodge covering from 64 - 74... The factory service manual is better information than you can get in a chiltons or haynes service manuals.. :farao:


Rrr is a good guy and has a lifetime of experience to share and help us with. If you listen to him and follow what he's saying, he knows what he's talking about. If you broke down near his house, he would be the first one there to help you... :prayer:

because this is a discussion forum, if the fsm knew it all then we wouldnt need the forum... The fsm does not deal with all the variances.
 
I think most of us will get a little peeved one time or another when questioned about something you know worked for you. As I have found the reason you thought it worked may not be right at all or only partially correct. There are many different problems that display the same symptoms. This thread has been great in bringing out a lot of issues related to the cooling systems of our machines. I had forgotten about the lower hose spring issue. Slowing down the flow depending on where you restrict the system also can keep pressure in the heads where it is needed and prevent steam pockets. Too much total timing at cruise was a culprit in one of my slants. When I worked at a GM dealership there was a problem on several models that would overheat at cruise if the lower valance or air dam was missing or damaged. Missing shrouds, bad fan clutches, even too much antifreeze. Straight coolant does not conduct heat as well as water or the mixture. Eliminating the EGR without compensating mixture and timing is a sure way to heat one up. When a thread gets as long as this one it does get to be a pain to read all the way through and I'm sure I have asked a duplicate question a time or two because I sped through the post. I don't mind getting tagged as a dumb butt for being one... ;) I just hope guys don't give up posting some of your great knowledge and experiences. A good example of what not to do is just as valuable as technical expertise.
 
Knock off the arguing & crap spewing please.....Let's get back on topic :)

Is this too difficult to understand? Do I need to reword it?

If you don't have something to contribute to the topic, please refrain from posting :)
 
Funny thing is, after reading through the rest of this thread, I go out to the garage last night around midnight to check my lower radiator hose to see if it has a spring. It does!!!

But the hose is soft and needs replaced...so I go looking online for one and none of the ones I found have a spring.

Thanks for posting the link on the mustang spring. I hope my Mopar still runs with a Ford spring in it, LOL!!!!
 
I have also brought this up MANY time here.....yet it too gets run over and ignored. Look at newer cars. From about the late 70s on up......and sometimes even before, grill openings got smaller. Front ends dropped, engine bays got smaller.....heck vehicles got smaller on the whole.

Look what the factory did to over come overheating issues. Air dams were added. The open area between the bottom of the front bumper and valance was blocked off. The open area between the valance and the frame main cross member was blocked off. Yeah, they mightta been little plastic or sheet metal afterthoughts, but they WORK!

The air dam and all of those panels work together to help push more air into the grill and through the radiator and over the engine, instead of around the car or straight out the bottom of the open area in front of the K frame.

When you build a higher performance car than what the factory did, you are venturing into an engineering no man's land. Look around at what the factory did to overcome these problems in later years. It's really not rocket science. Those of us who've been in the industry a long time know this......and TRY to give advice around it. It works.

As you change one system to make more power, you are also creating more heat. Pissy electric fans under 100 bucks ain't gonna make it. You need around 4000...that's FOUR THOUSAND CFM of air flow to keep a hot V8 cool at idle, PLUS something better than a Volkswagen radiator. I bring up the Volkswagen radiator, because believe it or not the Volkswagen Scirocco used to be a popular swap for the Chevy guys. How in the WORLD this ever came to be is beyond me. I've heard guys say "it's a big radiator". Yeah. Ok. Let's hold it up to a 4 row Griffin.

And that's another thing. When looking at radiators, don't cheap out. How much did your engine cost? Just because "so and so" had good luck with a total chinkesium radiator doesn't mean you will. Griffin is about the best HP radiator you can buy and they have affordable universal down flow and cross flow models that will fit if you have the fabbing abilities of a chimp.

For every person whose had success with an off shore radiator you can find one that still has trouble. We've all seen it right here. You spend THREE THOUSAND plus dollars on your engine rebuild and then want to run a hundred dollar radiator. With no thermostat, old radiator hoses, a 29.95 electric fan and a used wore out water pump. Not saying any of this is true for the OP, just giving and example.....and we've ALL seen it!

I can take any car overheating in front of me, diagnose the problem and fix it. It all depends on the customer. Do they want to spend the money to fix it? My question is if you don't want to spend the money to do it RIGHT, why in the world did you even build the car?

Again, my apologies for the arguing. I am still TRYING to contribute in a positive way here. It gets frustrating for those of us who have been on the line thirty plus years and see this kinda thing when people argue, ask the same questions repeatedly, or just slap don't listen. I am going to adopt the "say it once and move on" attitude I think.

Like I said, all of this isn't directed at the OP. I think he is soakin it all up.
 
One more thing I will add. If you get a lower hose spring, here's a good tip I learned many years ago.....clean the spring up REAL good in some kinda alcohol based cleaner so it will evaporate completely. Paint it with a good rust inhibitor......Rustoleum comes to mind. It will pretty much last forever.
 
I'll just say one thing. OK, two.

1. RustyRatRod has a TON of knowledge about our Mopars. And he enjoys helping other solve their problems with their cars. If he gives advice and the original poster asks the exact same question again, he feels (rightly so) that his advice is not appreciated.

2. I think the original question about having a thermostat was covered well.

Thank you!
 
Yup, I posted that link for the mustang spring about a year ago. It's what I have in my lower hose. Fits perfectly and does it's job. $7 well spent.

And I have had it bookmarked EVER SINCE! lol Muchas grassy ***, as they say. LOL
 
I admit I havn't had the time to read all of this thread, I will though when I get a chance. I do highly regard a lot of opinion here! maybe this question has already been addresses.
I had a couple of old OEM radiators checked and repaired at local shop that has been in business last 40 years. ( few of these still around here)... the guy told me the OEM rad was supposed to take a 7 lb cap, not a 14. I know the boiling point of water will be higher with a 14 lb cap, and that is what I have always used., with no problem in the decades before. but it is very hard to find a good 50 year old rad now! was hard enough 20 years ago!
seems to me, if the old tank is somewhat":ify", the lower pressure cap would be a safer bet than the 14 lb cap?????
 
Yeah I think that is actually correct about the lower pressure cap. Less stress on hoses and such. Less chance for leaks. Keep in mind a brass/copper radiator the same size and core thickness cools more efficiently than aluminum. Aluminum is cheaper to make and does not corrode as badly. Price a brass/copper VS aluminum about the same size. You'll see. We sold a brass/copper radiator the other day for a Ford LN9000 dump truck. Over 900 bucks. Took three people to bring it in the building. I got very lucky with RobKat. It had a full size three row original copper/brass radiator that the local radiator shop was able to get flowing 100%. It would probably cool a big block Ford in that little car, much less a 302. If everything else in your cooling system fits the bill, the 7 pound cap should work great.
 
thanks for the input on that. I never had heard of that before, but i'v e also forgot half what I did know!???? LOL
for the guys like me that can't afford a new rad, alum or oem type, maybe this 7# cap would be something to consider on these ancient radiators!!!!
and that shop pressure tested and repaired 2 rads for, I think it ,like $30 total!!!!! good guys and bargains still exist!!!!
o k. I've had my snack, rested my old arm, back to blocking that primer!
 
About the airflow.... After looking at old Mustang R-1 bumpers I was motivated some would say in the WRONG direction but... The late mode A body bumpers are heavy and also obstruct the radiator. I planned on rounding the corners and tapering them some but that is on a long list of lesser important things to do. It looks huge but actually sticks out no further than the OEM bumper. I don't recommend this unless you have pretty thick skin because the comments ran the gamut. Snow plow, cow catcher etc. It drops about 80 pounds off the nose and can be easily removed from factory attachment points.
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Just ordered a lower hose from NAPA and the spring from PonyParts (8.99 shipping included).

When I swapped motors last June, I took the original radiator to an old school radiator shop. Since it was so old, he didn't want to rod it out, but he ran it through his tank. Not sure if it was a boil out or ultrasonic. Said it was flowing well.

The FSM I have calls for a 180* stat so I run that. I also found an original shroud and put that on. It's a 273 Commando in a 66 Barracuda. Original A/C car so it has the HD radiator.

It normally runs 180-185 when driving, up to 195 in stop and go traffic. When I shut the motor off on a hot day it will climb to just over 200 but as soon as you start the motor is goes back down.

I always worry about these old girls overheating so I keep it flushed and a good 50/50 mix of antifreeze.
 
I am amazed that the old 4 blade "X" fans do the trick on these. My 76 Duster slant had a 5 blade factory flex fan but it was an A/C car.
 
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