Rust Oleum red oxide for your motor?

[autoxcuda]

How did you go about shooting the lady detergent?

Mixed in s 5 gal pail and sucked and shot with a air powered degreaser sprayer like this:

 

[autoxcuda]

Re: autoxcuda: Is that the Rustoleum rusty metal red oxide primer or the regular red oxide primer?

Don't remember exactly. Will have to dig through pics.

 

[autoxcuda]

Doesn't seem very popular these day for a street strip engine. Haven't heard many guys complaining about oil drain back. I would probably use the extra time into smoothing out casting flaws in the lifter valley area and the few extra dollars into better rods or pistons.

When I had a driving instructor drive my car at the race track with the old 340 motor and stock oil pan, he sucked the pan dry and lifters wouldn't settle down after we got it off the track and let it sit for quite some time. The car has the potential to generate much more side loading with better tires (not yet), better brakes (not yet), and it's even more improved suspension.

So, I did that too with the new 416 stroker motor. I actually had to go back after my first round and scuff it up some so the paint would stick. I was told it was too smooth in spots that the paint might not stick. Got way carried away.

 

[1967 'cuda]

I've used glyptal enamel in every engine I ever built. I've still got a 440 block sitting that had it applied over 40 years ago and it looks as clean and mar-free as the day it was applied.

 

[hemi446]

I started using it around 1977 when I hate to say it but a Chevy friend of mine took me to one of the few machine shops around that did performance work to pickup his block and it was painted on all of the non machined surfaces the machinest told us the main reason for the paint was the older motor oil would stick and form a thin coat of sludge causing heat to be trapped in those spots. Where or not that was the whole truth or not I don't know but after painting and restricting oil to the upper part of the engine we found we could run less oil and a lighter oil which made more power and didn't hurt the engine so it was a win win but today with the quality oil modern oils I'm not sure it still applies I believe some super stock engine only run a couple of quarts of oil and still survive. Not to change the subject but I think a top fuel only turns about 600-700 Rpms to make the 1000 feet so how much oil do they run and are they worried about drain back at all

 

[dibbons]

I forgot to mention in my first post that opened this thread initially, that I also drilled drain back holes in the lifter valley area of my 273 block (those areas where the oil puddles alongside the lifters). This "trick" or recommendation I did not think of on my own, but I read about it back in the 70's when I was building my own motors. This was in addition to the RustOleum paint.