Rust Product Opinions?
- Thread starter Troub
- Start date
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Where you going to use it?
Troub
67 Dart 270, 225 slant six
Looking to basically stop rust areas from getting worse while I get the car mechanically sound.......drip rails, engine bay, ect....plan to clean down to bare metal or as close as I can get before applying. Pardon the ignorance but is oshpo just a generic term for rust converters with specific properties?
I’ve got a quarter panel on my Duster that had surface rust under the primer and paint. I’ve left ones into some of these and the seem to work, BUT you have to make very sure the acid stuff is completely removed. If not, it will bubble over time. Not sure on the rust “converters”, as it sees encapsulating a problem area isn’t necessarily a good fix, either. I am going to have my buddy sand blast it from line6’-8’ away to clean it up, then put a layer or two of epoxy on it before I get out the urethane primer. I cleaned out my drip rails with a wire brush on my drill until they were clean. Etched prime, followed by several coats of urethane primer. I will put the seam sealer on next. Strictly my opinion.....not saying there aren’t other possibilities out there, just not for me.
340demon72
Well-Known Member
Ospho is a brand product name. It needs rust to work (hence the name converter) otherwise it will cause adhesion failure to any overcoat.
Ospho Rust Treatment - Since 1947
I have wiped down bare metal with it, some clean and some spots had surface rust, all areas that cold be gotten to we hit with DA and 80 grit, some hard places with large wire cup. . 4 years later I have had no problems at all on 5 or so of my own cars. .The pro auto paint stores hae sld for years meatal preps/conditions, and theyhave also worled well for me, but the costs are very high
I have NO stock in Ospho but use it akll the time iT is a posphoric acid solution. It will DRY and leave a coating where it actually had a reaction to the rust. Let it dry at least a day before doing anything with it. I have been told that using an acid based primer on it an eventually cause problems. '
I had a hood few years back that was VERY rusty. It was not blasted, and I figured I would wind up getting a better one. I wiped it with Ospho, and did not prime it at all. NO good! Just put heavy layer of Rustoleum or different brand? maybe, of equipment enamel. It did wrinkle in a few places, I sold that car 2 yrs later, it had no other problems. No doubt if I had primed it and sealed it, I say I would have had no problems. Just my experience.
I have asked several body men I respect about " rust inhibitors", they all say NO. Cleanng solutions and inhibitors are no the same.
I have adriver I have sanded down to bare metal couple spots where I will weld, been sitting out in the weather for what couple months, I wiped it with Ospho and it basically is 99% rust free there. I hand sanded the n surface rust, bottom of this car month ago, let dry couple days, put heavy coat of equipment enamel on with brush. .I have dne thi before . No problem, I will apply undercoat over this.
Remember, If it work for me, it is because I am lucky, NOT good!
When I really took notice of metal cleaners, whether Ospho or the high $ stuff at the paint store, is when I have pitted metal And like pauly said, I like his primer methods. BUT I have had some cars with terrible surface rust, taken to bare metal, used the best of PPG's stuff, and had rust re - appear later.
There I no substute for absolutely clean metal!!
There I no substute for absolutely clean metal!!
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