RV2 AC compressor Rebuild help

[C2ndLTpigeon]

Im rebuilding a RV2 AC compressor from scratch, new pistons, head seals, crank, bearing.
The only seal I am missing is the rear seal that behind the oil pump plate.

Does anyone know what the part number is? Or a suitable replacement?

Thanks.

 

[Demonic]

The flat plate in the back? Cut one from some thin gasket material. The front shaft seal is 1426501, likely the most important one to change.

 

[Machmeter1]

I would need that part too, also rebuilding my AC Compressor.

 

[C2ndLTpigeon]

The flat plate in the back? Cut one from some thin gasket material. The front shaft seal is 1426501, likely the most important one to change.

Already changed the front seal, the rear is not a flat gasket but thick O ring that falls into a round grove.

 

[Pete in NH]

Already changed the front seal, the rear is not a flat gasket but thick O ring that falls into a round grove.

For all those working on RV-2 compressors-
Piston Package 2541330, one piston, one sump Gasket, one head Gasket and one valve plate gasket

Crankshaft Package 2815755, crankshaft, two head gaskets, two valve plate gaskets, sump gasket and front seal.

Front Bearing 2019681

Rear Bearing 1984152

Oil Pump Package 2021191

2275205 and 2252204 Reed Valve Plates

 

[C2ndLTpigeon]

For all those working on RV-2 compressors-
Piston Package 2541330, one piston, one sump Gasket, one head Gasket and one valve plate gasket

Crankshaft Package 2815755, crankshaft, two head gaskets, two valve plate gaskets, sump gasket and front seal.

Front Bearing 2019681

Rear Bearing 1984152

Oil Pump Package 2021191

2275205 and 2252204 Reed Valve Plates

Good info!

As far as the front bearing, I found out that there is 2 sizes. On one of my compressors its bigger and the other is smaller. Mine is the smaller and I dont think it is a mopar bearing but the part number on the one I have is NTN 6205 $12 or less on Ebay

 

[Machmeter1]

Interesting, I got one from eBay - NOS part, but I am still debating with myself if I should change the bearing or not. The NOS does not look better or has less play than the old one.

The oil pump seal (O-ring) is obviously just available in packages, so I might instead use a similar size O-ring from the automotive industry. Should not be that big of a deal.

Thanks for all the info and sorry for interrupting your thread,

Cheers Wolfgang

 

[Pete in NH]

Be careful about which compressor you're working on. The part numbers I listed were for an RV-2 compressor which is the larger of the two Chrysler used. The V-2 is the smaller compressor used on 6 cylinder cars. The RV-2 is a little over 10 Cu. Inches the V-2 is around 9. Pistons, crankshafts and front bearings are different between the two compressors. The fly by night rebuilders out there kind of call both compressors RV-2's so you never know what you have until to take them apart. That's why you are seeing two different size front bearings

 

[C2ndLTpigeon]

From the outside the 2 compressors I have look the same. A buddy of mine has a different one he bought and is on his 75 Cordoba. The heads on his look different and they are recessed where the bolts are and the heads look rounder. I will post some pics of what I have.

 

[C2ndLTpigeon]

Here are some pictures what I was going to use. The black compressor was the one in my car, problem was the oil fill bolt was over tightened and made a stress crack in the case now its useless. I purchased one from a member on here and planed on rebuilding it, the one pictured on the left. I have also shown the pictures of the kits I purchased. I also have a new crank. What I did notice is the pistons from the 2 kits that include the 1 piston and 3 gaskets is that the piston and rod overall length is shorter and they also have a star indent pattern on the piston top and the side skirt is shorter. The stock only has a round indent in the center of the piston top. Part numbers on the compressor heads are the same. Cylinder bore and length are the same. Compressor cases look the same other than one houses a smaller front bearing and the other is bigger.

The only thing I plan on changing now since the NOS pistons look like they might be the wrong ones as they are shorter is: New metal gaskets, crank with smaller bearing, reuse the stock pistons as they really are not in bad shape.

Compressor on the left is the one that will be rebuilt as stated above. Right is there just to show that there are 2 different bearing sizes.

Crank shafts with different bearing sizes.

Piston kits.

Crank kit

 

[Pete in NH]

The compressor case on the right is an older part number going back to the late 50's early 60's. The V piston compressors had a long life span from the late 50's to pick up trucks in the early 80's. The RV-2 part numbers I listed are from a 70-71 parts book as that is the age of my 71 Charger. The last pick up truck compressors may have been the smaller displacement compressors because truck cabs are small and don't need the cooling capacity of a big Chrysler. The piston package you show is a late 70's piece and i don't really know anything about the last of the V piston compressors from that era. My earlier posting was just a heads up that not all V compressors are RV-2's and changes happened along their life span. I think your approach of rebuilding your own compressor is a good one because it's very difficult to find a quality rebuilt RV-2 today. None of the commercial rebuilders seem to care about this old stuff today as the market is so small.

 

[C2ndLTpigeon]

The compressor case on the right is an older part number going back to the late 50's early 60's. The V piston compressors had a long life span from the late 50's to pick up trucks in the early 80's. The RV-2 part numbers I listed are from a 70-71 parts book as that is the age of my 71 Charger. The last pick up truck compressors may have been the smaller displacement compressors because truck cabs are small and don't need the cooling capacity of a big Chrysler. The piston package you show is a late 70's piece and i don't really know anything about the last of the V piston compressors from that era. My earlier posting was just a heads up that not all V compressors are RV-2's and changes happened along their life span. I think your approach of rebuilding your own compressor is a good one because it's very difficult to find a quality rebuilt RV-2 today. None of the commercial rebuilders seem to care about this old stuff today as the market is so small.

I know what you mean, I purchased two reman units from ebay and both were trash when I received them. They were a spray paint black reman special.

So the only thing I will be changing in the compressor is the crank with the smaller bearing, and new gaskets I will reuse the pistons since the new ones are for late RV2s.

The compressor that you said is on the right that is from the late 50s and 60s was the original one on my 73 Valiant when I purchased it meaning it was replaced at one point. Other than the bearing size on the one on the right the compressor should still function the same?

Thanks for all the info!

 

[Pete in NH]

Yes, they will function the same. The only thing you will need to check out is to remove the EPR valve if it is present behind the suction port on the rear of the compressor. The B and C body bigger cars had an EPR valve, the A bodies up to I believe 1974 did not. The EPR valve (Evaporator Pressure Regulator) kept the evaporator from freezing up. The A body cars had a temperature sensing switch with a probe in/on the evaporator case to do the same thing. Check your shop manual for your year as 73-74 was the change over for this switch or EPR valve. Later A bodies went to the EPR system. IF you are converting over to R-134A refrigerant the temperature sensing switch actually works better as you can get a switch that is adjustable. The old EPR valves were calibrated for R-12 refrigerant although a few were also adjustable. New EPR valves today are quite expensive if you can find them.

 

[C2ndLTpigeon]

Yes, they will function the same. The only thing you will need to check out is to remove the EPR valve if it is present behind the suction port on the rear of the compressor. The B and C body bigger cars had an EPR valve, the A bodies up to I believe 1974 did not. The EPR valve (Evaporator Pressure Regulator) kept the evaporator from freezing up. The A body cars had a temperature sensing switch with a probe in/on the evaporator case to do the same thing. Check your shop manual for your year as 73-74 was the change over for this switch or EPR valve. Later A bodies went to the EPR system. IF you are converting over to R-134A refrigerant the temperature sensing switch actually works better as you can get a switch that is adjustable. The old EPR valves were calibrated for R-12 refrigerant although a few were also adjustable. New EPR valves today are quite expensive if you can find them.

Thanks for the info, you are correct the A-body does not use the EPR valve. Compressor didn't have one anyway. My buddies Cordoba uses an EPR valve. As much as I would like to run R-12 it just costs way to much where as I can get a 30lb cylinder for $100 or 3 12oz cans of R12 for the same price, obviously a no brainier. Again appreciate all the tips and cross references.

 

[pbiggs]

I don't mean to high jack this thread, but does anybody know if the front ball bearing can be replaced on a RV2 crankshaft without removing the compressor from the car?
Thanks ahead time for the info.

 

[Pete in NH]

Hi,
The new front bearing needs to be pressed on and the old one pressed off. So, the crankshaft has to be out of the compressor. To get the crank out you have to unbolt the piston rods from the crank and to get to those you have to remove the oil sump pan. Removing that sump pan is impossible with the compressor mounted on the engine. Long story short, there is no way to do it on the engine I can think of. Along with a new bearing you'll need a sump gasket and front seal kit, which is a seal and big O ring.

 

[pbiggs]

Hi,
The new front bearing needs to be pressed on and the old one pressed off. So, the crankshaft has to be out of the compressor. To get the crank out you have to unbolt the piston rods from the crank and to get to those you have to remove the oil sump pan. Removing that sump pan is impossible with the compressor mounted on the engine. Long story short, there is no way to do it on the engine I can think of. Along with a new bearing you'll need a sump gasket and front seal kit, which is a seal and big O ring.

Thank you Pete in NH for responding....kinda thought it would have to be removed.

 

[MaxPF]

Hello all. I was happy to come across a current thread on the RV2 compressor. My question is simple - can someone with a disassembled RV2 measure the bore and stroke for me? I have been completely unable to find that information on the internet. I can find the B&S for Yorks all day long, as their service manual is readily available, but the RV2 doesn't seem to have a service manual available. At least, not in electronic form. I realize measuring the stroke requires either having the crank and pistons installed in the case, or having a set of machinist's v-blocks handy. I'm kinda hoping someone happens to have their RV2 partially assembled (or disassembled) to make measurement of stroke easy.

Thanks for anyone who can help with that info!

 

[TylerW]

I'm glad I found this thread. I'm overhauling the compressor on my '69 273 Dart. Somehow it ran out of oil and took out both connecting rods and and the front bearing. I might be able to save the crank, we'll see. The number on my compressor is 2951195, which the parts book indicates is a V2, not the RV2 even though this one is on a V8 A-body. No EPR on this one, as previously noted. Thanks again for the info.

 

[Machmeter1]

Good Morning, look at the top of your pistons, if the piston top is flat, I believe it's a V2, if the piston top has 3 grooves for the reeds its an RV2. Don't take this information for granted, it just represents the result of my personal researches. Attached is a picture of an RV2 piston head. I am also currently working on my AC compressor and AC system. Slow progress, but I try to document all steps: 1969 Barracuda Fastback | Page 8 | For A Bodies Only Mopar Forum

Cheers,

Wolfgang

 

[MaxPF]

Good Morning, look at the top of your pistons, if the piston top is flat, I believe it's a V2, if the piston top has 3 grooves for the reeds its an RV2. Don't take this information for granted, it just represents the result of my personal researches. Attached is a picture of an RV2 piston head. I am also currently working on my AC compressor and AC system. Slow progress, but I try to document all steps: 1969 Barracuda Fastback | Page 8 | For A Bodies Only Mopar Forum

Cheers,

Wolfgang

View attachment 1715643386

Wolfgang, are you able to measure the bore & stroke of the RV2 for me? I see you have two compressors, and I'm assuming one is still disassembled?

Thanks!
Max

 

[Machmeter1]

Yep, will measure it.

 

[Machmeter1]

Here you go:

 

[MaxPF]

It looks like the bore is 2-5/16. The distance from the piston to deck at BDC looks like it's 1-5/16", and going by my calibrated eyeball it appears the distance from the piston to deck at TDC is about 1/16". That would give a stroke of 1-1/4". Do those figures sound accurate? Assuming those measurements are accurate, that makes the displacement π(2.312÷2)²×1.250×2 = 10.495549536 = 10.5 cubic inches after being rounded up slightly. That makes it comparable to the York 210, which is 10.3 cu-in.

 

[Machmeter1]

Correct, piston travel from TDC to BDC is 1-5/16" and the bore is 2-5/16". Hope that helps, but since you mentioned the York compressor what are you plans?