RV2 AC compressor Rebuild help

Heating / Cooling / AC

  1. 4406Pack$

    4406Pack$ New Member

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    Where can I get a rebuild kit?
     
  2. C2ndLTpigeon

    C2ndLTpigeon Mopar or no Car! FABO Gold Member

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    Ebay if yo can find one. These are really hard to find, from what i learned the kits on ebay that include the piston and 1 of each gasket are for the later years compressor. There are some sellers that sell individual gaskets but getting ahold of a complete rebuild kit is next to impossible. Classic industries has it on there website but it has been out of stock for a while now.

    I ended up rebuilding my RV2 compressor and it actually worked well converted to R134, but I ended up deciding to delete my AC. I may list the compressor for sale soon.
     
  3. 4406Pack$

    4406Pack$ New Member

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    Thanks for the advice much appreciated.
     
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    • MaxPF

      MaxPF Active Member

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      What is the condition of your compressor? Assuming it hasn't gotten moisture in it and the cylinders, crank journals, and valve plates are in good condition, you likely only need to re-seal it. Gasket and shaft seal kits are readily available for the RV2.

      If you haven't taken it apart yet, you can easily bench-check it for suction and discharge. A good compressor will create good suction and discharge pressures when plugging the suction or discharge ports and spinning the clutch (the disc on the very front that turns the compressor crankshaft, not the pulley where the belts go on) by hand. The ideal situation is a flange-to-1/4" flare adapter that you can bolt on to the suction side or discharge side and monitor the suction/pressure and bleed-off rate, but in lieu of that the finger-over-the-port method gives a good rough estimate of the compressor's pumping capability.

      If the compressor doesn't pump, don't assume a full rebuild is needed. Usually it is the valve plates that are the culprit. Find a set of new, or good used, valve plates (or a good donor compressor), install them with the rubber coated metal shim gaskets, and check again for suction and discharge. Make sure the cylinder walls are still oily when you do this. They don't need to be dripping - just a thin film is plenty. Use mineral oil, not PAG or POE, both for testing and final assembly. PAG and POE (POE=ester) are too hygroscopic (they absorb water from the air) to use as assembly oil. After final assembly, allow any excess MO to drain from the compressor. If you are going to use 134a (meh), wait until you are ready to evacuate the system before adding the POE or PAG oil.

      Let us know how it goes!
       
    • Machmeter1

      Machmeter1 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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      I would have a donor compressor and good reed valves.
       
    • macdrew77

      macdrew77 Well-Known Member

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      Wow @MaxPF you are the AC master! What a great thread to find, thanks for sharing your extensive knowledge. I will be putting AC back on my 65 273 Dart station wagon that originally had dealer installed AC. There’s a 1976 Valiant /6 with a compressor I’m thinking of grabbing at the local u pull yard now that I’ve seen this thread.
       
      Last edited: Apr 30, 2021
      • Thanks! Thanks! x 1
      • MaxPF

        MaxPF Active Member

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        Make sure it is an RV2 compressor. IIRC, some Chrysler vehicles had dealer-installed AC systems that used a different (York?) compressor. It's easy to tell if its the right one: if it's a "V" configuration, it's an RV2 ;-)
         
      • macdrew77

        macdrew77 Well-Known Member

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        It’s a /6 so I think it’s a V2 compressor and it has the single groove pulley but I need the double groove to match up to my crankshaft pulley. I might just wait for an RV2 with the right pulley snd mounting brackets to pop up.
         
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