SB bellhousing question

[Patch]

Hi all.....I thought I did my due diligence, but I cannot find it. I have 2 bell housings......2892482 and 3515734. Brewers says A body and some E bodies, but can I use these at all for my 65 Dart with a 360? I cant be stuck with a 9.5 housing....right?

 

[65 Cuda 340]

The first number was used in 69-71 models. Second number is 72-73. Both fit A bodies. I'm not sure what the difference between the two is, but I'm using the 69-71 version (from a 71 Duster 340) in my 65 Barracuda. It will bolt in no problem, but you will have to modify the clutch linkage. For a long time I just used a self-modified Duster 340 linkage, but when I installed TTI headers, I went with clutch linkage parts Brewers sells specifically to fit an early A bodies with 10.5" clutch, as their setup fit the headers better.

 

[Patch]

Modify the clutch linkage as in the z bar or the pivot point? If I run a hydraulic clutch that may eliminate some of the issues altogether maybe....thank you for your response.....

 

[65 Cuda 340]

The 65 fenderwell stud bracket will be OK as is. The Brewer conversion Z bar is TS636. The Brewer parts description is "Torque shaft fits 1963-1966 A-body applications when converting to 1968 & later 10.5" bellhousings. Requires use of our BSB636 bellhousing ballstud bracket, AK636 adjusting rod kit, FP484 fork pivot, and CF702 clutch fork." As I say, I originally was able to modify factory 340 parts to work OK, mostly by slotting the upper mounting hole in the bellhousing ballstud bracket. I also bent the Z bar arms, and I think I cut one arm off, repositioned it, and welded it back on (been a long time). It wasn't completely level, but worked OK for over 30 years (I did this back in the seventies when Brewer didn't exist; put a lot of trouble-free miles on it, too). With 340 exhaust manifolds, everything cleared OK. With TTI headers, the lower 340 Z bar arm hit one of the header tubes; the Brewer Z bar cleared better and also everything just lined up more precisely. But yeah, you could just convert to hydraulic throwout bearing and eliminate all that mechanical linkage, although that would entail (obviously) rigging up a firewall hydraulic cylinder, so it's not just a simple bolt-in job. That option wasn't available back in the seventies, either, and I've never tried it myself. Anyway, the bellhousing itself fits just fine.

 

[Patch]

That is excellent info....thank you very much!

The 65 fenderwell stud bracket will be OK as is. The Brewer conversion Z bar is TS636. The Brewer parts description is "Torque shaft fits 1963-1966 A-body applications when converting to 1968 & later 10.5" bellhousings. Requires use of our BSB636 bellhousing ballstud bracket, AK636 adjusting rod kit, FP484 fork pivot, and CF702 clutch fork." As I say, I originally was able to modify factory 340 parts to work OK, mostly by slotting the upper mounting hole in the bellhousing ballstud bracket. I also bent the Z bar arms, and I think I cut one arm off, repositioned it, and welded it back on (been a long time). It wasn't completely level, but worked OK for over 30 years (I did this back in the seventies when Brewer didn't exist; put a lot of trouble-free miles on it, too). With 340 exhaust manifolds, everything cleared OK. With TTI headers, the lower 340 Z bar arm hit one of the header tubes; the Brewer Z bar cleared better and also everything just lined up more precisely. But yeah, you could just convert to hydraulic throwout bearing and eliminate all that mechanical linkage, although that would entail (obviously) rigging up a firewall hydraulic cylinder, so it's not just a simple bolt-in job. That option wasn't available back in the seventies, either, and I've never tried it myself. Anyway, the bellhousing itself fits just fine.

 

[grimreaper]

It is possible to continue to use the 9-1/2" bellhousing but clutch selection is limited. ( but they do make some adequate clutch assys that would work these days) You would also need to modify the small flywheel for 360 balance unless you zero balanced the engine. I ran the small bell with a 340 for many years in one of my cars using a clutch that was special built by a friend who worked for a clutch rebuilder. You are much better off to use the later 10.5" but the 9.5" is not totally out of the question.
I used to use the later 10.5"bellhousing prior to Brewers by using a
Clutch Fork from 1966-UP B/E/1967-69 A BIG BLOCK/1970-4 E/1971-4 B SM/BIG BLOCK 10-7/8" Overall length and modifying the original Z-bar and the bellhousing pivot. The 64-66 frame pivot will work. I have used bellhousing #s 2843887, 2892482, & 3515734. Brewers has made life a lot easier!

 

[Patch]

Great info from ya'll! I converted from a slant six, so I never had a 9.5 V8 housing...was hoping I wouldn't have to go that route. I am planning on going internal balance as my 360 is going the 408 route. Looks like I have quite a few options here....thanks again!

It is possible to continue to use the 9-1/2" bellhousing but clutch selection is limited. ( but they do make some adequate clutch assys that would work these days) You would also need to modify the small flywheel for 360 balance unless you zero balanced the engine. I ran the small bell with a 340 for many years in one of my cars using a clutch that was special built by a friend who worked for a clutch rebuilder. You are much better off to use the later 10.5" but the 9.5" is not totally out of the question.
I used to use the later 10.5"bellhousing prior to Brewers by using a
Clutch Fork from 1966-UP B/E/1967-69 A BIG BLOCK/1970-4 E/1971-4 B SM/BIG BLOCK 10-7/8" Overall length and modifying the original Z-bar and the bellhousing pivot. The 64-66 frame pivot will work. I have used bellhousing #s 2843887, 2892482, & 3515734. Brewers has made life a lot easier!