SB intake gasket woes

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A/MP

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LA 360 block w/ Magnum heads drilled to fit the LA block. When I tried to install M1 intake it has to sit higher to bolt up to the heads not to mention that I'll need at least 2 intake gaskets per head to create a seal between the intake and head. There is also a substantial gap at the front and back of the intake. Any thoughts? THX
 
Can't answer that question but I pulled the intake on my stock 273 and could not get the bolts to go back in. The problem was the cork gaskets at the front and back held it too high to start the bolts in the heads. I threw them out and used brake-clean to eliminate any oil, then used NAPA Permitex Ultra Black. I layed down a good bead, dropped the manifold down, tightened the bolts, waited till morning and had no leaks to date. This is good stuff. I also used it to replace the cork gaskets at the oil pan on the timing cover, no leaks. I don't think it would work between the intake and heads if there was a gap but I thought I'd throw it out on the site
 
Were the heads milled allot? That can cause it. Like MVR said try it without the cork end gaskets. May fit that way even if the heads were milled allot.
 
Sounds like the the heads were milled,and the intake was'nt to match...i never use those end gaskets,i like to just lay down a good bead of sealer lnstall the intake,tighten it down let it sit over night,recheck the bolts and its good to go...
 
I see this same issue time and time again at various forums.
2 gaskets is doable if 2 is enough. I personally wouldn't want more than 2 though.
I have to wonder why aftermarket hasn't offered a metal shim plate to put there between 2 gaskets.
 
If you stop and think about it doubling the gaskets isn't the best way to do it in a performance application because it will probably put the intake ports out of alignment. If you just do away with the cork end gaskets the intake should sit down fine and the port alignment won't be affected.

This worked fine on a 360 I rebuilt a couple yrs. ago. Couldn't get the bolts started in because the heads were milled a bunch so I tried it with no end gaskets and it set down perfectly. Used silicone on the ends and it never leaked a drop.

It also gave more clearance to the intake runners that were hitting the valve covers.
 
If you have gaps at both ends and the runners need two gaskets then where is it hitting? Those are the only mating surfaces. Did you remove the locator pins? Usually if the heads were milled the ends will bottom out on the block before the runners match up.
 
If there is a gap between the manifold and intake ports the manifold was milled at one time. If the manifold sits too high on the engine and you can't get the bolts in but the china wall pins had been removed, the head/block has been milled and the intake gasket surface had not been milled accordingly.

Milling the heads/block will not cause a big gap, but narrow the distance between the V causing the intake manifold to sit too high.
 
You guys are not paying attention.A/MP says that he needs to raise the intake to get the ports to line up,this will take 2 gaskets per side. A/MP,yes you can stack 2 gaskets per side,and you will probably have to stack 2 of the cork end seals on either end to close the gap on the end rails.You will need 2 sets of Felpro 1213 gaskets and some weatherstripping adhesive to do this. If you are not familiar with the adhesive it is made by 3M and comes in either black or yellow.Use a little bit between each side gasket to hold them together then put a thin bead on the end rails of the block to hold the cork seals in place,use a thin bead between each cork seal also to hold them together.DO NOT use regular silicone for this,it does not cure properly and will cause the gaskets to slide out.
 
Obviously something is wrong,you should NEVER have to use 2 set of intake gaskets to seal the intake,your just asking for a leak ,glad its not my motor..
 
If he glues 2 gaskets together with 3M weather stripping adhesive they will not leak. Obviously the right thing to do is try another intake if he can. Not everyone one is made of money and can send there junk out to the best high end machine shops half way across the country. Some times some of us just need to make things work even if its not done "right"
 
AdamR said:
If he glues 2 gaskets together with 3M weather stripping adhesive they will not leak. Obviously the right thing to do is try another intake if he can. Not everyone one is made of money and can send there junk out to the best high end machine shops half way across the country. Some times some of us just need to make things work even if its not done "right"
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If your not going to do it right your just asking for problems...
 
Who is to say what is wrong or right.I have to do this on a couple circle track engines using the EQ magnum head and the Performer RPM intake,no problems with any leaks on those.
 
340srule said:
If your not going to do it right your just asking for problems...
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How do you know your motor isnt done this way ? We all know you didnt build it so you have no clue what lurks inside. I bet if another ngine builder went though it he would find something that he doesnt feel was done "right"

If it makes you feel better he can buy a roll of thick gasket paper and cut out his own gasket. Then it wont be to glued together.

The Mopar performance gaskets are nothing fancy anyways, Just plain paper gaskets pre cut .
 
If he is worried about the gasket coming apart then he can use the 1213-sh gasket. The sh gaskets from Felpro have a thin steel shim in between 2 layers of gasket material,it is the same concept as a Big Block set up using a bath tub gasket with the paper on either side.Welcome to the wonderful world of high performance parts.
 
yeah we're not talking head gaskets. Intake gaskets see very little pressure.
If a possible coolant leak is the concern a weak system cap (7lbs.) might be the answer. I'd prefer a hand cut piece of shoe leather over the piece of crap plastic gaskets used in some newer engines.
As for stacking paper gaskets, I think I would put the 2 together with contact cement either sprayed on or brushed on in a thin smooth level coat.
The yellow 3M adhesive (Gorilla snot) wont level to produce a consistant gasket thickness.
 
AdamR said:
How do you know your motor isnt done this way ? We all know you didnt build it so you have no clue what lurks inside. I bet if another ngine builder went though it he would find something that he doesnt feel was done "right.
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You could'nt be further from the truth...ever component in my engine was hand picked by me,and given to the gentlemen that assembled it, who happens to be a 'very" good friend of mine,the machine work was done by one of the best shops around,with an excellent rep for doing things right.theres no need for another builder to go through it ITS DONE RIGHT!!! and no double gaskets needed!!
 
Monte, thanks for opening my eyes:) Now I see the big picture. I would try to find another manifold that you know for sure has not had mods to it just to see how it fits. When I converted to magnum heads I never put the old manifold in place to see if it has the same issue. I used the rpm airgap for the magnum. I sure wish I could help you out. I would think if the gaskets are done properly you would not have any issues. Just like Adam, redfish, and Monte said.
 
340srule said:
You could'nt be further from the truth...ever component in my engine was hand picked by me,and given to the gentlemen that assembled it,
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Thats just what I said, You didnt assemble it. Ask your friend what they would do in this situation. You really think he would tell you to buy a new $300 intake instead of a second set of $12 gaskets ?
 
AdamR said:
Thats just what I said, You didnt assemble it. Ask your friend what they would do in this situation. You really think he would tell you to buy a new $300 intake instead of a second set of $12 gaskets ?
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I don't know what intake your buying for 300.00 my last Air Gap did'nt cost anywhere near that,and yes i would get another intake,but thats just me i like to do things right,or not at all...
 
Oh sorry, $250 plus $8 shipping. Some of us have families, mortgages and other bills that keeps us from just tossing $258 on parts that will work fine with $24 worth of gaskets.
 
AdamR said:
Oh sorry, $250 plus $8 shipping. Some of us have families, mortgages and other bills
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So do i !!!..you people want to mickey mouse,go right ahead like i said before glad its not my motor...
 
I personally wouldn't double up on gaskets. It increases the chances of a vacuum leak quite a bit, especially with my luck As a temporary fix, maybe, but I wouldn't want to count on it long-term. That's my opinion and the reasoning behind it.

Now, what gaskets are you trying to use, and what are their thinknesses? If it's not a huge gap that you're trying to fill, you might be able to get a thicker gasket set. I think you should be able to get them up to .060". How much thicker do you think it would need to be in order to fit the manifold the way you want?
 
I just dont understand what you think is going to happen from running t gaskets ?

The car isnt going to blow up. They arent sealing compression in. Just air and water.

Ever work on a Big block ? Its very common for guys to run a steal valley pan and paper gasket.

How about the factory not using exhaust gaskets ? Does that mean anyone that runs them id doing it wrong or the factory did it wrong ?

What about big blocks with windage trays ?
 
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