71_dart_swinger
Well-Known Member
i felt the need to share I scored a brand new set of Harland sharp rocker arm assemblies for 400. Replacing the rough isky adjustables.
Scored. Harland sharps
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mopowers
Well-Known Member
Nice. What was wrong with the old ones?
71_dart_swinger
Well-Known Member
not a whole lot really. The ductile iskys are really strong. They where on a set of 516s I got on a rebuilt motor. One side has spring spacers and other side had shims. It wasn't shimmed properly and would walk up and down the shaft a tad. The Harland's were too god of a deal to pass up. So I'll end up getting rid of the iskys The rocker shafts are not pretty and there's a little bit of pitting inside a couple of the rockers where it rolls on shaft.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
Please please please go to www.b3racingenines.com and read the tech stuff about RA geometry on his site.
You can call him as well. He can help you.
I personally am not a fan of any rocker that uses needle bearings on a reciprocating shaft, BUT, the HS stuff is quality. The issue is the roller tip, the length of the rocker and how the adjuster comes out of the rocker. All this affects geometry. Plus valve stem height, where the saddles are on your particular heads and probably a couple of other things I'm forgetting, such as lift.
So you WILL need to correct the geometry and the B3 system is the most effective, inexpensive way to do it I have found.
Please take a look at it. It's worth the time. I have a lifetime of geometry issues with this MoPar stuff and since I'm from the old days (as opposed to the really old days) the only way I fixed geometry before the B3 stuff was to mill the stands and make up blocks. That is a royal gargantuan PITA.
You can call him as well. He can help you.
I personally am not a fan of any rocker that uses needle bearings on a reciprocating shaft, BUT, the HS stuff is quality. The issue is the roller tip, the length of the rocker and how the adjuster comes out of the rocker. All this affects geometry. Plus valve stem height, where the saddles are on your particular heads and probably a couple of other things I'm forgetting, such as lift.
So you WILL need to correct the geometry and the B3 system is the most effective, inexpensive way to do it I have found.
Please take a look at it. It's worth the time. I have a lifetime of geometry issues with this MoPar stuff and since I'm from the old days (as opposed to the really old days) the only way I fixed geometry before the B3 stuff was to mill the stands and make up blocks. That is a royal gargantuan PITA.
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