You’ll notice that all the seam sealing is done on the inside of the car and the seams are open on the underside. When you try and seal both side if water does find it’s way in the seam it won’t dry out and will stay wet in there and continuously corrode the seam. I haven’t done this yet to mine but I am going to get around to it is to spray a wax oil product used for corrosion rust proofing in between the seams on the bottom of my car. This product creeps in between the seams and then solidifies like wax. This is the gun that has a couple different tips that sprays the stuff, almost like a mist,
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This method keeps the seams open so they can dry out but protected from the water. It does wipe off easily when first sprayed from the surfaces you don’t want it on.
So are you spraying the wax/oil product on the seams from underside?
What product did you use?
Thanks for the info.
That is what I do after all body/paint work is done. I use Transtar Amber in a rattle can. It is really thin so it gets into the door and rocker seams really well, then dries to a thick coat of wax that does't seem to let dirt and crap stick to it.You’ll notice that all the seam sealing is done on the inside of the car and the seams are open on the underside. When you try and seal both side if water does find it’s way in the seam it won’t dry out and will stay wet in there and continuously corrode the seam. I haven’t done this yet to mine but I am going to get around to it is to spray a wax oil product used for corrosion rust proofing in between the seams on the bottom of my car. This product creeps in between the seams and then solidifies like wax. This is the gun that has a couple different tips that sprays the stuff, almost like a mist,
View attachment 1715362240
View attachment 1715362241
This method keeps the seams open so they can dry out but protected from the water. It does wipe off easily when first sprayed from the surfaces you don’t want it on.
i don't know how old you are, but my cars not going to rust before i'm deadWell, I guess my crap's gonna rust all to hell. I am seam sealing every nook and cranny top and bottom where I replaced the floor pans. Ain't havin it. I'm sealin everything I can find. A coat of Rustoleum before and after.
Well, I guess my crap's gonna rust all to hell. I am seam sealing every nook and cranny top and bottom where I replaced the floor pans. Ain't havin it. I'm sealin everything I can find. A coat of Rustoleum before and after.
I'm just going through this process now too. Floor plans are in and I was thinking to use 3M's seam sealer both inside and underneath. Primer first, then seam sealer, then truck bed liner.
If you seal the seams completely, would there be concerns, or does condensation still allow water to be present under all of that?
No sir. It a lot like others are talking about like the cavity wax but it dries harder and has excellent creeping characteristics. I've done tests with it and it will climb 4 inches up an aluminium can. I don't think it will hold up to an abrasive type salt test but for between seams that get sealed it is an excellent product or for interior work. And it wont keep leaking when it get hot. I use it along with this.Is that a "paint" so to speak?
Oh I'm sure. You gonna buy us all a case?
Guaranteed work aint cheap. Punch that card you cheap *******.Oh I'm sure. You gonna buy us all a case?
Oh... and while you are at it, get one of theseGuaranteed work aint cheap. Punch that card you cheap *******.
I'm just going through this process now too. Floor plans are in and I was thinking to use 3M's seam sealer both inside and underneath. Primer first, then seam sealer, then truck bed liner.
If you seal the seams completely, would there be concerns, or does condensation still allow water to be present under all of that?
I have the same stuff. 30 years old at least. Still useable. Good for sealing small holes,and taillight housing to body bolts.Heres an old can of 3M. I keep it in my shop display cabinet...looks about 30 years old.
Cleanup " with unleaded gasoline " lol
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