Sears 3600 Watt Portable Generator

-

Daves69

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 20, 2011
Messages
7,525
Reaction score
6,262
Location
WestOfChi
Motor (electric) Gurus please help if you can!
I lost one of the two outputs of my portable generator yesterday. Today I opened the thing up and found the control panel breakers and outlets appear to be good with expected continuities and clean, tight connections.
Moved on to the motor and right away found the red lead from the bridge rectifier pinched with the insulation worn through and shorted to the case by a cover bolt. Everything else appears just fine and I detect no indication of anything burnt or hot electrical odor.
I repaired the red lead, nailed back together, and it made no difference.
Pulled the cover back off and removed the bridge rectifier/brush assembly.
With my limited electrical knowledge I believe the bridge rectifier is good as my test light lights in only one direction on each diode.
So if I follow the red lead around the stator it terminates in this black insulation. I am thinking there is a thermalfuse inside. (?)
Is this the next logical culprit?
Where do I go from here?
TIA, Dave
 

Attachments

  • GenElec1.jpg
    38 KB · Views: 182
  • GenElec2.jpg
    46.7 KB · Views: 141
  • ShortRepair.jpg
    43.4 KB · Views: 173
  • BridgeRect.jpg
    34.1 KB · Views: 180
  • ThermalFuse.jpg
    45.5 KB · Views: 173
I don't understand the pictorial diagram, and really cannot read it. But if the schematic (top diagram) is correct, do the stators have continuity?

It appears to me that if one phase of the 120V works, IE the rotor is driving it, then the problem could not be in the rotor or bridge

It almost has to be in the dead stator or connected wiring

I don't know about thermal fuse........those might just be simple splices. If one stator is open, I'd sure as heck open it up, LOL
 
I don't understand the pictorial diagram, and really cannot read it. But if the schematic (top diagram) is correct, do the stators have continuity?

It appears to me that if one phase of the 120V works, IE the rotor is driving it, then the problem could not be in the rotor or bridge

It almost has to be in the dead stator or connected wiring

I don't know about thermal fuse........those might just be simple splices. If one stator is open, I'd sure as heck open it up, LOL


Thanks again for your help, Del.
All have continuity .5 ohm and none are shorting to ground.
The thermal fuse idea was just a connector wrapped in shrink tube.
Trying to load a larger picture (split into three). Maybe a little easier to see.
Bottom diagram shows the rectifier/dual brush assembly. The red lead off the rectifier was the shorted one.
I think I'm going to try cleaning the commutator(?) rings as one looks much darker than the other. Neither ring is grooved or has much wear at all as this thing has only ran three times since purchased new.
 

Attachments

  • StatorDiag.jpg
    31 KB · Views: 107
  • Schiz3.jpg
    15.6 KB · Views: 113
  • Schiz2.jpg
    19.7 KB · Views: 115
  • Schiz1.jpg
    25.3 KB · Views: 109
[ame]http://youtu.be/SVZAWZJlIDI[/ame]


Ta-Daaaaaaa

Evidently getting the glaze off the commutators did the trick. Thanks again.

Before and after............
 

Attachments

  • CommB4.jpg
    36 KB · Views: 114
  • CommAfter.jpg
    31.3 KB · Views: 108
  • Tadumm.jpg
    44.4 KB · Views: 97
-
Back
Top