Seat Foam

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BARNEY'S CAR

SGITP
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Anybody bought bulk seat foam and redone their own seats? I'm looking for a place to buy bulk correct density foam so I can stop sitting on the floor.
Thanks for your time.
 
I don't know how it works, but if you google recovering dodge seats using foam from hobby lobby you will find a couple of videos. One tells you exactly what to purchase including burlap and foam. Not the same seat as my barracuda, but I am going to check it out good luck.
 
they list for 310 but get them to send you a free catalogue or put you on their email list and you will get 20-25% discount offers in your email almost every damn month . You can of course try to do it all yourself , I'm a carpenter not a seamstress so I chose to buy the proper foams and covers and give them to a local upholsterer to do as a cash side job , he said I could have easily done it myself with those foams and covers because they fit great with no fussing .
 
I have the upholstery and went to a local shop. He quoted me 700 to install the covers. I'm sure I can do this myself
 
700 Wow thats steep , my guy charged me 250 to install foams and covers on both front buckets and the rear bench plus he fixed up the frames a little and remade one of the bucket seat back panels with some black vinyl and card he had in stock . He does it for $50hr cash , same guy did my headliner for 100 bucks and these prices are in Canadian dollars so I'd be looking for another upholstery guy if I was you , tell him he's not on tv get real .
 
Yep, I'll just do my own once I finish the paint. I plan on doing my headlines as well. I have the new upholstery and headliner. Hopefully before fall I will have the paint finished and the interior underway
 
I bought my 66 Barracuda seat bun foam off ebay from "Tamraz's" and recovered them myself reusing the seat covers that were on it. I think I paid something like $120 per seat for the front foam.
 
I saw the goggle search and am planning on checking it out. May be a mistake, but if I could replace the burlap and the foam for the price it quoted I think I might try it out. I wouldn't be out very much money if it doesn't work
 
You wouldn't necessarily have to go out and buy the
burlap unless you wish the bottom of your seats to look original.
The burlap's role in seat construction is a method to
keep the foam from pushing thru the springs while being compressed.
You may have something suitable even better than
burlap laying around. Most any non stretch fabric made is a better choice since it is much tighter woven. An old bed sheet or tarp for example could be used.
The trick is wrap and hogring the perimeter wire frame stretching fabric tight.
Don't forget to ring every spring to the fabric to keep them from spreading apart from each other. When the springs spread the padding is easily forced thru
giving no support.
As for the foam use some high density for the seat
cushion replacements. Softer foam is better suited for the backrest. Carve foam into shape with a loose hacksaw blade or bread knife.
 
I used an electric turkey carving knife. Got to be VERY careful though...cuts quickly!!

Check out the Biohazard thread by Teeth & Tires. He gives a very detailed step-by-step on his seats. This link will get you in the general area.
Biohazard
 
Thanks, I am working on preparing to paint the exterior of mine. I have painted most of the interior parts. I have recently found that I have a health issue which will require surgery next month which will delay my ability to work on my car outside, but may be able to do the seats if I can bring them inside
 
I didn't realize you could use the sheet material. The burlap is very inexpensive as well.
 
If your looking for 68-69 foam go with PG Classics! It is the only foam that is correct for the bolster area out of the box! Everything else can be modified but if you want something that is correct with no mods use PG.

Doing the rest of the seat is important though! You should install the wire supports in the burlap, it makes a huge difference!!!! Attention to detail here will be rewarded!
 
The spring steel wires woven into the burlap was used as an attemt to spread the load across the springs. Poor attempt as it was. Proof is in the condition most seats are in today.
It is the original method used by Chrysler if that is important to you.
If you wanted to accomplish the task in a improved easier way the tighter woven fabric will hold up much better as the springs can't spread when rung to the fabric.
It doesn't take much to improve over the factory burlap and wire. It is a very weak/cheap material for building seats and the wires would serve better attached to all the springs.
If you wanted to fix Chryslers bean counters errors and wanted a more professional approach the proper way of keeping springs from separating
is to use paper wrapped spring wire and purpose built clips. These kind of supplies are available from the upholstery supply houses such as DLT.
The fabric accomplishes close to the same thing for the at home builder on a budget using something readily available.
Here is a couple pictures of what works best.
This will out last many covers and foam sets. It is for the most part permanent support until a spring or frame breaks.
What you are looking at in the photo is new replacement heavy duty springs installed to replace
the weakened and lighter duty originals. They are tied to prevent spreading and excessive movement during use which wears springs and soft trim out faster.
You would then go over them with a fabric and a jute pad to keep the springs from chewing the foam into
bits and falling thru the spring grid.
If you weigh close to 200 lbs or more this can have a tremendous effect on the life of your foam and cover investment. It is pretty simple really but
something most (even professional shops) don't do or think of during a seat rebuild. Just like anything there are many different quality level options of doing a repair.

IMG_20160808_213242_475.jpg


IMG_20160808_213308_593.jpg
 
Can't disagree with that!

My wires on the bottom's were toast! I wanted original and replaced them the same way. Should be good for another 40 years I hope.
 
Most of our cars don't get the kind of use they used to and are stored and taken care of better. You will be fine. Using the better methods and materials doesn't hurt on limited use but can be most benifical on a daily or race car where a heavier than average driver
is getting pushed into a seat frame. The photo I posted is a A-100 seat used in a super stock scenario. They were light weight and not particularly up to the task from the get go.
 
ssba said:
Most of our cars don't get the kind of use they used to and are stored and taken care of better. You will be fine. Using the better methods and materials doesn't hurt on limited use but can be most benifical on a daily or race car where a heavier than average driver
is getting pushed into a seat frame. The photo I posted is a A-100 seat used in a super stock scenario. They were light weight and not particularly up to the task from the get go.
Click to expand...


No doubt about the use! A couple times a month on average. Our butts have grown larger as well! The videos that legendary has out there just using burlap aint going to get it done! Prep no matter the method will make a better seat in the long run!
 
Hope this info helps some of you guys that wish to build a better seat for your A body's.
I don't generally go into this amount of typing on a topic but thought some could put it to use.
It's not always easy to see how and why things are built as they are, particularly when rebuilding your first set of seats.
Stareing at what little you generally have left to work with can be discouraging and cost more coin to have professionally repaired than you have to spare. Luckily much of this can be done at home with
a bit of knowledge, time and materials.
I covered the suspension above so I thought I would add to that a bit.
The foam is nearly as important as the springs and also a portion of the suspension.
Even if it has managed to remain intact over the last
40 years it has lost most of its resilience and ability
to fill a new set of covers.
On the cheap a guy can add a half inch of high density pleating foam to the top of the original and the covers will look good. They won't support or feel as a new seat bun though.
Sometimes this is the desired way to go about the repair such as on a survivor type car where the original covers will be reinstalled. You just want to take the loose squashed look out of it. A new seat bun could put too much pressure on a old cover.
For most other seats the foam is not worth salvaging same as the covers. Hope you have enough for a general pattern if you decide to go the fabricated route.
The ready made foam buns made today are much firmer than what the originals were even when new. This is an improvement for the most part.
A person can build new foam from sheets but may not worth the time for some. It does have some advantages.
If those of you that really wanted to go all out on building the most comfortable seat the foam could be staged. This is done by lamination and is the best construction technique for a quality that is not available shipped to your door in a box.
A first layer of super dense foam would be applied over a layer of fabric & 40oz jute pad. This is done so you wouldn't be able to feel the metal frame regardless how hard you press.
You only have so much space available under the covers so up to a 1" foam that you couldn't crush or bottom out would be a good choice. Then a high density foam layer would go over this. These layers would be glued together with contact cement.
For most mopar seats this is probably soft/firm enough. It really can be taylored to your liking. Take the time to have a sit on your work as you progress to determine how firm is needed for your weight.
If you wanted the seat to be more comfortable for long road trip type driving you could add another layer of softer foam for the top 1"-1 1/2" layer. All of these layers combined needs to
equil the dimensions of the factory buns so the seat doesn't look over or under stuffed when the cover is installed.
You do have to be careful not to use to soft of foam on a reproduction cover since they are stiff vinyl and need more foam pressure to fill them out than cloth or soft leather.
Triple staging a soft leather cover is like heaven over how our 40 year old vinyl seats were built.
My personal favorite seat for our old cars that have had a few modifications is making leather covers in the original patterns and going over staged foam.
It will not be a perfect match to factory stock but will still have the same flavor. Has more of a higher quality look and greatly improved especially in feel.
I wouldn't recommend the leather for a car that is
restored to original but the staging would be hidden.
Cutting the foam sheets into shape is pretty strait forward as mentioned above with your choice of weapon you have on hand.
A regular hand held wood saw works easy for the long strait cuts to get your slightly oversize blocks from sheets. Do this supported on a flat table not overhanging like you would a sheet of plywood.
A serrated bread knife or electric turkey
carver works same as a hacksaw blade for shaving the glued together blocks into the curved shape of the moulded factory bun. I am not going into the details of installing or making covers here but you should end up with a seat worth covering with this info.
 
ssba said:
Hope this info helps some of you guys that wish to build a better seat for your A body's.
I don't generally go into this amount of typing on a topic but thought some could put it to use.
It's not always easy to see how and why things are built as they are, particularly when rebuilding your first set of seats.
Stareing at what little you generally have left to work with can be discouraging and cost more coin to have professionally repaired than you have to spare. Luckily much of this can be done at home with
a bit of knowledge, time and materials.
I covered the suspension above so I thought I would add to that a bit.
The foam is nearly as important as the springs and also a portion of the suspension.
Even if it has managed to remain intact over the last
40 years it has lost most of its resilience and ability
to fill a new set of covers.
On the cheap a guy can add a half inch of high density pleating foam to the top of the original and the covers will look good. They won't support or feel as a new seat bun though.
Sometimes this is the desired way to go about the repair such as on a survivor type car where the original covers will be reinstalled. You just want to take the loose squashed look out of it. A new seat bun could put too much pressure on a old cover.
For most other seats the foam is not worth salvaging same as the covers. Hope you have enough for a general pattern if you decide to go the fabricated route.
The ready made foam buns made today are much firmer than what the originals were even when new. This is an improvement for the most part.
A person can build new foam from sheets but may not worth the time for some. It does have some advantages.
If those of you that really wanted to go all out on building the most comfortable seat the foam could be staged. This is done by lamination and is the best construction technique for a quality that is not available shipped to your door in a box.
A first layer of super dense foam would be applied over a layer of fabric & 40oz jute pad. This is done so you wouldn't be able to feel the metal frame regardless how hard you press.
You only have so much space available under the covers so up to a 1" foam that you couldn't crush or bottom out would be a good choice. Then a high density foam layer would go over this. These layers would be glued together with contact cement.
For most mopar seats this is probably soft/firm enough. It really can be taylored to your liking. Take the time to have a sit on your work as you progress to determine how firm is needed for your weight.
If you wanted the seat to be more comfortable for long road trip type driving you could add another layer of softer foam for the top 1"-1 1/2" layer. All of these layers combined needs to
equil the dimensions of the factory buns so the seat doesn't look over or under stuffed when the cover is installed.
You do have to be careful not to use to soft of foam on a reproduction cover since they are stiff vinyl and need more foam pressure to fill them out than cloth or soft leather.
Triple staging a soft leather cover is like heaven over how our 40 year old vinyl seats were built.
My personal favorite seat for our old cars that have had a few modifications is making leather covers in the original patterns and going over staged foam.
It will not be a perfect match to factory stock but will still have the same flavor. Has more of a higher quality look and greatly improved especially in feel.
I wouldn't recommend the leather for a car that is
restored to original but the staging would be hidden.
Cutting the foam sheets into shape is pretty strait forward as mentioned above with your choice of weapon you have on hand.
A regular hand held wood saw works easy for the long strait cuts to get your slightly oversize blocks from sheets. Do this supported on a flat table not overhanging like you would a sheet of plywood.
A serrated bread knife or electric turkey
carver works same as a hacksaw blade for shaving the glued together blocks into the curved shape of the moulded factory bun. I am not going into the details of installing or making covers here but you should end up with a seat worth covering with this info.
Click to expand...


Thanks all for the replies and info.Great help for sure. I guess I'll start looking at the stores mentioned and see if they have the rods and foam. I have 2 front seats to do so you can maybe see why I do not want to just spend spend spend..... Doing the work seems pretty straight forward and with in an old guys skill set so we will see what happens. If anyone has any more supplier names I'm sure we would all like to hear them.
Bruce
 
Do a search for upholstery supplies.
Activefoam or DLT also known sometimes as lite products will sell
to the general public without being registered as a business or needing a tax #.
There are others but some won't sell unless you have a business.
 
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