Setting ride height

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synchro66

synchro66

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Just put my suspension back together after ball joint and Bushing refurb. I notice while adjusting my ride height , that the 'Bolts which go up thru the LCA are pointing in different positions. The one on the LHS is very tight and pointing on an angle whereas the one RHS turns relatively easy when winding them both down. any ideas as to whats wrong here and how to rectify?? TIA

RHS1.JPG


LHS.JPG
 
Look at the picture below. You can see that the adjusting bolt is leaning too far to the right to properly engage the LCA lever arm.



B LCA 5.jpg
 
synchro66 said:
Just put my suspension back together after ball joint and Bushing refurb. I notice while adjusting my ride height , that the 'Bolts which go up thru the LCA are pointing in different positions. The one on the LHS is very tight and pointing on an angle whereas the one RHS turns relatively easy when winding them both down. any ideas as to whats wrong here and how to rectify?? TIA

View attachment 1716125193

View attachment 1716125194
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@Kern Dog makes a good point. Also to ME in that first picture, the adjustment bolt looks bent. Maybe the camera angle, but I don't think so.
 
i'd get the car on stands, run the bolts out until the ball end of the bolt is clear of the cup on the arm and the block is loose. then tug the adjuster over so that it sits square in the bottom of the arm and make sure that the ball on the bolt properly engaged into the cup.

run some tension up onto it, then bring it down off the stands. set your ride height, bounce, bounce, check. then torque up the LCA nuts.

also, i'd throw a hairy eyeball at that one adjuster. like RRR said, it looks a little funky.
 
Did you tighten lower control arms with car weight? I ask cuz I am in the process of putting together my dart sports front end. It's all stock type rubber bushings and the moog offset upper bushings for more adjustability.
 
Kendog 170 said:
Never adjust with weight on car or you'll strip your threads or worse.
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Not to hijack the thread, but I'm about to tear into the front end of an A-body, and everything I've read talks about tightening things down with the weight on the car.

Kendog 170 (or anyone else): So that I don't make a mistake, which adjustment are you referring to here? Ride height?
 
Yes, it is the LCA pin that needs to be loose until the car is at height or close. It's only critical that it gets tightened up with space between the frame rail and LCA bump stop bumper. Same with the upper control arm bolts, but those will need to be adjusted anyway.
 
ProjectBazza said:
Not to hijack the thread, but I'm about to tear into the front end of an A-body, and everything I've read talks about tightening things down with the weight on the car.

Kendog 170 (or anyone else): So that I don't make a mistake, which adjustment are you referring to here? Ride height?
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Yes, he's talking about what this whole thread is about. The torsion bar adjustment bolts. The weight of the car must be off the suspension to adjust them. A factory service manual is a great help.
 
QuickDart360 said:
Did you tighten lower control arms with car weight? I ask cuz I am in the process of putting together my dart sports front end. It's all stock type rubber bushings and the moog offset upper bushings for more adjustability.
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No! Never adjust ride height with weight on suspension. Jack up from frame so control arms are hanging then make adjustment lower car and bounce suspension by pushing the car up and down at front bumper and then measure again. Repeat until you've reached desired height height measuring specs should be in service. Manual
Jim post 8 covered the bushing question
 
I just readjusted the ride height on Vixen the other day. Take measurements, Jack it up, make your adjustment, let it down, back it up and pull it forward to settle the tires out, jounce the suspension several times remeasure. Rinse and repeat if necessary.
 
Kern Dog said:
I've done this countless times and never had a failure.
Maybe it is a problem in the rust belt but it isn't an issue here.
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Not a rust belt thing! My buddy almost got killed that way. The weight of the car will strip the threads and the suspension will drop like a stone crushing you or your arm that is reaching under.
 
My point was that rusty cars have compromised metal. In places that don't get snow or cold weather, the metal stays intact longer.
 
I do not disagree with taking the weight off, but I have never had a failure by fine tuning it the other way either. Your buddy must have had another issue that caused the failure. I will say it again though, I do not disagree with taking some of the weight off.
 
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