Shake rattle and roll

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Had 1999 Dakota R/T . After two motors w/cam, headers complete rebuilds : neither ever ran to capability. Sold it:(
Answer: CAT, they were clogged. No codes.
If you have an old CAT, check for flow, not emission crap. Actually, check the entire Ex system.
 
Well back to the drawing board. Swapped in the old distributor and while it didn't solve my issue, I now realize how poorly the vacuum pot on the aftermarket dist was functioning. Always cracks me up to see a 45 year old greasy part work better than the new shiny chinesium junk i try to replace it with.
 
Plug wire routing? There is a whole TSB for the Magnums about changing the routing of the coil wire and the 4/8 and 5/7 plug wires so there is at least an inch between them. Could that be part of the issue?
 
Plug wire routing? There is a whole TSB for the Magnums about changing the routing of the coil wire and the 4/8 and 5/7 plug wires so there is at least an inch between them. Could that be part of the issue?
Never would have thought of that. When i routed the plug wires i just tried to make them look nice and keep them off of hot components. I found the article with a lot of detail on how to route them in a factory dodge truck setup. Would I be right in assuming the main point is to keep space inbetween wires and try to keep them from crossing but if they must, do it at a right angle?
 
Never would have thought of that. When i routed the plug wires i just tried to make them look nice and keep them off of hot components. I found the article with a lot of detail on how to route them in a factory dodge truck setup. Would I be right in assuming the main point is to keep space inbetween wires and try to keep them from crossing but if they must, do it at a right angle?

I think the goal is to make sure none of those wires touch each other at all. I would bet the coil wire can jump to a wire it is touching and not even go through the cap, and the 8/4 wires and 5/7 wires are sequential which (I guess) make them more susceptible to misfiring. I’ve always heard with the LA to watch the routing of the 5/7 plug wires, but the TSB includes the 8/4 wires and the coil wire.
 
So while trying to route the plug wires better I found this. First pic is the coil wire the second is the #7 plug wire. These wires are basically brand new. Could this be a result of spark jump or is it something else? Neither wires are rubbing on anything. I have tried to separate the wires better but i cant seem to find away to keep them from touching near the cap. I could possibly spin the distributor and change the wire position on the cap but then the vacuum cannister would hit throttle linkage or firewall. Also on a side note. Do I need the "condenser" thing connected to the coil with electronic ignition the wire is damaged from being bent.

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Unfortunately the saga continues.
So I got a set of cut to fit wires and routed them in such a way that not a single wire touches any other. Not as pretty as the previous wires or routing but so be it.
No change in the surging, so after some reading I found edlebrocks are finicky about fuel pressure. My pump is pushing a steady 7-8 psi, so today I got a cheap mr. Gasket adjustable fuel pressure regulator. Drove it around gor 10-15 minutes and the car seemed happier than normal. Not sure as to the surging because when I stopped to get some gas the car started to die when I put it in gear. Continued to hard start and die for 5 minutes or so and then drove home with a crappy idle. Im guessing a crappy part, but I cant imagine theres much to this regulator. Probably just a ball valve or some equivalent. Could running the pump with too much pressure have damaged something in the carb to where it is giving me issues with the correct fuel pressure.

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Still at it. Swapped the coil and ignition module to humor myself. Last time I tested the fuel pressure it was 7-8 psi and steady. Today i got a banjo fitting with pressure gauge outlet a holley pressure regulator (4.5-9 psi) with all the fittings to match. I was getting an extremely sporadic reading from 3-4 psi that dropped to almost 0 at throttle. Bypassed the new regulator and got the same readings. Bypassed the filter and got a very steady 4 psi. So assuming it was either dumping fuel out the return outlet or clogged I bought a new filter now im getting a better reading of 4, but it bounces a bit and has random drops. Tomorrow I am going to pull the pump and use a screwdriver to check if the hughes cam extender kit has come loose on the eccentric. If not I will replace the pump with my old one. I may not be fixing my surging issue but it seems I will be fixing every other issue along the way.
 
This is a balance issue, IMO. I don't believe you're going to fix it making ignition changes.
 
I believed so as well, but I have a nuetral balance converter with the flex plate that came with the motor and a factory magnum balancer. I have ran the engine with no belts and still the same issue. Also the issue isnt consistent. Sometimes it wont happen until the engine is warm sometimes you can barley feel it and sometimes it is so bad you dont want to drive it down the street. Not sure where to go from here.
 
If this is a balance issue which is the most likely scenario. What would be my next step here. I have all the correct ingredients. The torque converter is a nuetral balance that I had built by a reputable shop that was recommended to me by the owner of a transmission shop I know. The dampner is off of a 96' 360 motor and I have tried an aftermarket with multiple removeable weights as well with the same symptoms. The keyway for the balancer is in good shape and the flex plate is the factory one with a weight that was installed on on the motor when I pulled it, and only goes on one way. Rusty Rat Rod had suggested getting it balanced professionally, but I dont understand why this would be necessary. There are tons of guys who swap magnum 360's and none of them have ever mentioned having to balance the engine afterwards. Is there a chance that the nuetral balance converter could be having issues and throwing off the balance? Im not sure as to what step to take next.
 
What about trying it without any of the accessory belts on it? Seems like a long shot and maybe you already tried it, just tossing it out there as an idea.
 
What about trying it without any of the accessory belts on it? Seems like a long shot and maybe you already tried it, just tossing it out there as an idea.
Yes ive tried removing the belts. The surge isnt as noticeable in park even while throttling up, but it is still there without the belts on. Ill take any ideas at this point, long shot or not.
 
A stock two piece I pulled off of a 96' 360 truck, as I am running v belts and all they sell new is the one piece with pulley now.

Might be worth checking the TDC mark to make sure the ring hasn't slipped.

Only other thing I can see that might be off is the TC. You said you had a shop build you one, is it possible that it never got balanced to neutral? I know you said that was what you asked for, but could it maybe have missed the balancing step?

It's the only thing I can think of outside of the motor having been balanced in it's past at some point and now the stock weights won't work.
 
Might be worth checking the TDC mark to make sure the ring hasn't slipped.

Only other thing I can see that might be off is the TC. You said you had a shop build you one, is it possible that it never got balanced to neutral? I know you said that was what you asked for, but could it maybe have missed the balancing step?

It's the only thing I can think of outside of the motor having been balanced in it's past at some point and now the stock weights won't work.
I doubt the engine has been balanced in the past as the balancer/pulley that came on it looked stock and not altered. Original cutout and holes, although I have no way to test this as I threw it away as soon as I pulled it off.
I can test tdc again on this balancer but I also used a new aftermarket dampner with the same symptoms.
I would hate to spend more money and more importantly effort/time buying and installing another tc, but how else would I test that theory aside from just removing it. Running out of options at this point.
 
Still at it. Swapped the coil and ignition module to humor myself. Last time I tested the fuel pressure it was 7-8 psi and steady. Today i got a banjo fitting with pressure gauge outlet a holley pressure regulator (4.5-9 psi) with all the fittings to match. I was getting an extremely sporadic reading from 3-4 psi that dropped to almost 0 at throttle. Bypassed the new regulator and got the same readings. Bypassed the filter and got a very steady 4 psi. So assuming it was either dumping fuel out the return outlet or clogged I bought a new filter now im getting a better reading of 4, but it bounces a bit and has random drops. Tomorrow I am going to pull the pump and use a screwdriver to check if the hughes cam extender kit has come loose on the eccentric. If not I will replace the pump with my old one. I may not be fixing my surging issue but it seems I will be fixing every other issue along the way.

This bit of info sounds like a bad fuel pump to me. Are you running an electric one? What type? Mounted where?
I doubt this would cause everything, but is worth repairing anyway.

I'm assuming you have a timing light. Have you tried connecting it to each plug wire to see if they all trigger the light? Try it on the coil wire too. I recently had a weak spark condition where not every wire would spark, but the engine seemed fine most of the time. Hard to start though, and wouldn't fire if the battery was even a little low. Point being, erratic spark could definitely come and go and could also cause a lot of what you're feeling.

You say the motor came from a rolled truck. I've seen accidents that you wouldn't think would hurt a motor cause all kinds of running issues. Cracked/bent cranks, oil/water which got into a particular cylinder and caused a dead hole. Have you done a compression test? I re-read and didn't see it mentioned.

Are you running stock rockers? Another thing which could cause power imbalance and the resulting shakes would be leaky valves due to excessive preload or something bent/broken or binding.
 
This bit of info sounds like a bad fuel pump to me. Are you running an electric one? What type? Mounted where?
I doubt this would cause everything, but is worth repairing anyway.

I'm assuming you have a timing light. Have you tried connecting it to each plug wire to see if they all trigger the light? Try it on the coil wire too. I recently had a weak spark condition where not every wire would spark, but the engine seemed fine most of the time. Hard to start though, and wouldn't fire if the battery was even a little low. Point being, erratic spark could definitely come and go and could also cause a lot of what you're feeling.

You say the motor came from a rolled truck. I've seen accidents that you wouldn't think would hurt a motor cause all kinds of running issues. Cracked/bent cranks, oil/water which got into a particular cylinder and caused a dead hole. Have you done a compression test? I re-read and didn't see it mentioned.

Are you running stock rockers? Another thing which could cause power imbalance and the resulting shakes would be leaky valves due to excessive preload or something bent/broken or binding.
Havent tried the light on every wire but I have replaced the brand new set of wires with some cut to fit ones because they were arching. Starts up quicker than a new car every time. Im running a brand new mechanical pump. I installed a regulator and gauge. Erratic fuel pressure so I bypassed the brand new fuel filter and got a steady 4.5 psi. Replaced the filter must have been leaking out the return outlet. Replaced the pump with the old one i ran on the previous motor and still a steady 4.5 psi. I guess thats what these pumps want to run. I even checked with a screwdriver when the pump was off to make sure the cam bolt and excentric adapter kit didnt come loose. I checked compression a year ago when it was in the junkyard and it ran good numbers. Its worth running them again to make sure nothing happened to the valve train since then(there is some lifter noise).
 
I doubt the engine has been balanced in the past as the balancer/pulley that came on it looked stock and not altered. Original cutout and holes, although I have no way to test this as I threw it away as soon as I pulled it off.
I can test tdc again on this balancer but I also used a new aftermarket dampner with the same symptoms.
I would hate to spend more money and more importantly effort/time buying and installing another tc, but how else would I test that theory aside from just removing it. Running out of options at this point.

Only suggestion I have in that regard is to go back to the shop and ask them what they think. Is it possible that the TC didn't get balanced, or maybe it was assumed to be in balance and never checked. I'm stretching here and it's the only other think I can see that isn't factory.
 
If this problem wasn't inconsistent I would throw another torque converter at it and see what happens. Is there any way a balance issue can get worse as the car heats up? The problem is when I first start the car it idles good and then about 10 minutes of driving it starts to act up worse and worse until by the time i park it the entire car is shaking at idle. Checked compression today and it was perfect. Every cylinder from 150-154. Pulled the drive belts off again just for the hell of it with no change. Replaced the alternator just because I had noticed a bad bearing. By the time I drove to the store and replaced it the car was cool enough that when I started it the idle was smooth drove nice with no pulsing.. for about ten minutes...
 
Got it. If this isnt the entire issue its a huge part of it that needs to be fixed immediately. Made it a point to study the fuel pressure today. First start up when cold im getting 7 psi. After idling for 5 minutes it drops to 6.5.. then 6. If i give it light throttle i watch it sink down to 3 psi and start fluctuating. As soon as it hits 3 the motor throttles down and what I thought was lifters (must be dry cylinders) start clacking like hell. Ive already replaced the fuel pump with the old(er) pump I had on the old motor and fuel filter. Plus all the fuel lines in the front. Im going to drop the tank and replace the original hoses in the rear to make sure they arent sucking air and check to see gunk is glogging up the pick up in tank. Anything else im missing? Any way a carb can cause low fuel pressure?

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Well theres no sock anymore, and the return line end is full of filtwr material. This explains why a brand new fuel filter got clogged although im not quite convinced it is my fuel pressure issue. Im now on the hunt for a replacement screen.

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After driving all over town to find parts, I shove an air compressor in the fuel and return line by the pump and routed a hose on the other end into a glass bottle. Flow was great no debris or gunk came out. I replaced the fuel sender screen after cutting it open to add a spring in order to prevent it from getting sucked flat. Cleaned the return valve on the sender. Replaced the fuel lines to the tank and the rubber seal to the sender unit. Fire it up and..... even worse pressure than before 4-5.5 psi but fluctuating like crazy and still dropping with throttle. Im running out of ideas and patience with this one. I guess I can throw another pump at it but the one thats currently on it was working great with the old motor. What am I missing here?

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If you are using an in-line fuel pressure gauge, fluctuations is normal, for elect pumps external from the tank. At least that was what I was seeing when I had one in-line.
However, the engine ran like it should have. I took mine out and have not had a issue since. 5 years +.
 
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