shimming hydraulic roller lifters solid

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so remove the springs to bottom out the plunger in the lifter body? and remove the spring in the internal check valve also?
 
so remove the springs to bottom out the plunger in the lifter body? and remove the spring in the internal check valve also?
Just removing the springs and disc I don't believe will keep it from pumping up. You'll have to do like @Bewy suggested and grind a slot down the side of the plunger, or else it will try to pump up. It might not be enough to interfere with valve adjustment, but I don't like might. lol
 
or you shim the piston in the up position with a hardend steel ball bearing.
i have no idea if that would work i have no roller lifter to look at.

Dave
 
Sorry everyone, I am away on vacation and can not look at the internals of the modified ones I have. I can look in a few weeks.
 
Was wondering this myself.... i trust the OEM lifters and they are cheap.. but would like solid also :)
David Vizard describes adjusting the HR lifters to bottom them out and then back off just a hair. You could install "dry" and measure how much to bottom the lifters out, and then order pushrods that almost get you to that. Adjusable rockers will get you to 0.002" to 0.005" clearance in the lifter. Fairly inexpensive if you have to purchase pushrods anyway.
 
David Vizard describes adjusting the HR lifters to bottom them out and then back off just a hair. You could install "dry" and measure how much to bottom the lifters out, and then order pushrods that almost get you to that. Adjusable rockers will get you to 0.002" to 0.005" clearance in the lifter. Fairly inexpensive if you have to purchase pushrods anyway.
That would be a CRAPTON of lifter preload, which I completely disagree with. I don't care WHO recommends it.
 
Vizard's method works. I believe the later Rhoads lifters [ are they called V lifters? ] work on the same principle. However, they are still a hyd lifter & work as such. So still able to pump up, or bleed down. If you convert to sol lifter operation, none of the above bad things happen, plus you get a better idle because of more positive valve seating.
 
On a 5.9 build we did long ago we used a Luniti Hyd Roller cam, close to this one at 292/305, Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 294/302 ;Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 243/251 ;Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .560/.565 @16:1 ratio rocker
We took some cold rolled thich wall tubing and turned it down, height and diameter, to press fit inside a set of Melling replacement Magnum roller lifters. Drilled to the side for oil feed. Had the tubes slightly heat treated. Then used just the modified cap for the pushrod tip. Stock spring retaining clip.

Also did a fine line grove down the side of the lifter from the oil gallery area down to the roller ball so it was fed oil.

I do not remember what roller rocker he used but it was an easy lash adjustment. NO pump up.

The weight of the hollow tube was less than the piston and spring by quite a few grams each
 
On a 5.9 build we did long ago we used a Luniti Hyd Roller cam, close to this one at 292/305, Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 294/302 ;Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 243/251 ;Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .560/.565 @16:1 ratio rocker
We took some cold rolled thich wall tubing and turned it down, height and diameter, to press fit inside a set of Melling replacement Magnum roller lifters. Drilled to the side for oil feed. Had the tubes slightly heat treated. Then used just the modified cap for the pushrod tip. Stock spring retaining clip.

Also did a fine line grove down the side of the lifter from the oil gallery area down to the roller ball so it was fed oil.

I do not remember what roller rocker he used but it was an easy lash adjustment. NO pump up.

The weight of the hollow tube was less than the piston and spring by quite a few grams each
Do you by chance have any pictures from this ?
 
Do you by chance have any pictures from this ?
No. it was so long ago and not my engine. I know the tube stock was just over 1 inch outside diameter. Then turned down to press fit size and drilled inside to thin it out. Then a hole was drilled into the side to align with the lifters oil fill port.

We did 90% of the work on a small Chinese Harborfreight pin lathe. He used RED lock-tight when pressing the tubes in the lifters. .

The small grove cut in the outter body if the lifter was just a small scratch like line and on the non-thrust side of the lifter. It was only enough to add a little more oil to the roller wheels and cam lobes. Maybe 0.005 inch deep. It was done with the lifter locked in the lathe and a thin Carbide cutter just dragged down the side like a broche.
 
Vizard's method works. I believe the later Rhoads lifters [ are they called V lifters? ] work on the same principle. However, they are still a hyd lifter & work as such. So still able to pump up, or bleed down. If you convert to sol lifter operation, none of the above bad things happen, plus you get a better idle because of more positive valve seating.
Yes, Rhoads VMax. I'm sure Vizard knows a thing or three, but you cannot simply arbitrarily decide to adjust a lifter off the bottom. They must be designed to do so. Telling people otherwise is wrong and can and will lead to bad things happening. I'm surprised he's making those recommendations. How old is he now?
 
You certainly can adjust a [ hyd ] lifter off the bottom. They are designed so that the piston assy can be anywhere from bottomed out...to touching the circlip. The preload from the small internal spring is nothing....compared to the other spring it is competing with: the valve spring. You can compress the lifter spring with pliers. Even with a relatively 'soft' valve spring of 100 lbs on the seat with 1.5 rockers, that is 150 lb [ that is with the valve on the seat & it goes up from there....], the lifter spring is a non -player.

ot sure how old DV is, 80-ish I think.
 
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