Shortened 8.75?

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CCHHAARRGGER!

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Update, with the third member installed i have 25 1/2 from the center of the carrier to the end of the housing. The right axle is 25 1/4 from the bearing retainer to the end of the shaft and the left is 25 5/8 . This means they are not touching the center pin in the carrier. I am not sure how critical this is . Does anyone know if both axes are supposed to touch the center of the carrier?

I have a a body 8 3/4 that appears to have been shortened.This is based on 2 factors. The weld on the end of the tubes( where the flanges met up with the housing) and the axles not being of equal lengths. I picked it up at spring fling a few years ago, it has a locked up pinion and leaking fluid from the right axle. The carrier moved freely , the pinion is stuck even with the carrier removed. I have not taken it out of the housing because i am using a different 3rd member. I took it all apart yesterday and noticed the axles are not the same lengths. Both axle ends have been cut. One is cut more than the other making one axle slightly shorter than the other. I measured the axle housing and it measured 52 and 3/8. I know the axle is supposed to be 52 5/8. I am thinking this housing was shortened and the axles were shortened to match the housing. Right now i am thinking of just using the same axles and seeing what happens. I have not run into this before so I do not know the pro or the cons or how to verify if the axles are meeting in the middle. One axle measures 27 10/16, the other is shorter by 5/16.

Looking for suggestions and tips on what to do. Thanks
 
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With the spacer inside the center section, they will center up. Install the drivers side first without the adjuster, and then back off the adjuster to about 2 turns from falling out. Then install it on the passenger side. Slide it all the way in, secure the retainer gently and check for end-play as you go. If you have end-play all the way, adjust it out until you are near zero, then back it off two or three turns. Now go over to the drivers side and push that axle in hard. If it moves then the center spacer is not bound up. Install and torque all the nuts; then Go back to the adjuster side, push it back in,(see note 1) install the nuts, and reset the endplay to .007 max, .002 minimum, and you are golden.
note 1
If when you attempted to push the axle back in on the adjuster side, and it did not move; then STOP!, it is bound up on the center spacer, hitting the crosspin, and either the drivers side axle is too short, or the adjuster side is too long, or the axle housing is offset to one side. If this happens to you, swap the axles side for side and start all over.
BTW, your backing plates will have to be installed prior to all this, with all the gaskets.

If it turns out one axle is in fact too short, don't panic! Just determine how much longer it needs to be, then weld a washer onto the end.

If it turns out that one side is in fact too long, You have a choice; to cut some off and dress the splines or fabricate a spacer to fit between the backing plate and the housing.

the center spacer has a very wide range of "float". You could adjust it's width to solve your problems, but that is a PITA to take it all apart.

If you have a Trac-Loc type of SureGrip with friction clutches; they have very tiny Thrust buttons which are very easy to lose. Make sure before you install the center section, that the buttons are in there.
 
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