No need to do any math to know you were way overloaded and shouldn’t have been on the road.
Yup,no question. People hook up to stuff and "just cause" it PULLS good think it;s ok. Well........lessie you STOP that pup with a decent distance.
Should have bought a Ram!
- Thread starter Pound
- Start date
-
Yup,no question. People hook up to stuff and "just cause" it PULLS good think it;s ok. Well........lessie you STOP that pup with a decent distance.
It really can be confusing. There's different situations as Rameth pointed out with registrations. That second sticker on your windshield is your weight class, and that you can choose depending on where your vehicle falls on the chart. The higher the class, the higher the fees. Most people don't realize that the model numbers on trucks relate to weight class. A Ford 750 is a class 7 truck for example. There's exceptions of course. Most 150/1500 trucks are class 2, some 250/2500 are class 3, ect.
The important thing to remember is that the manufacturer ratings can't be exceeded. Just because your truck is registered for a certain weight doesn't mean you can legally pull it. It just means that's the slot class you fell in. Truthfully you shouldn't exceed 80% of the rating. That last 20% is generally a miserable, dangerous experience and that's when things start breaking.
Right. My 75 F250 is a good example. Its GVWR is 8100 LBS, which puts it as a class 3. In fact, the steel data plate starts out the VIN as "F253....." It's all dependent on several things, including the GVWR.
I was thinking my '68 Ford 1/2 T. was a 283????? Wrong???? )My 64 Ford Custom was 283.).... No doubt it had better gear and was a stick (usually better gear)...... I had an early 70's GMC 3/4 ton 4 speed 327, I am thinking, good gear. It was a trailer pulling sucker, Till I got a 76 chevy 3/4 T. 454, that was my brand and engine till the Ram Cummins came alone in late 80's. for me...
Unfair to belate Ford or any brand 1/2 T. trucks, gear makes all the difference and if engine is bout wore out or not!!! For any real towing, you need at least a 3/4 T. period...
Chevy made the 283. If it was a 68 Ford it was either a 289, or a 302. 68 was actually the first year for the 302. The 64 Ford Custom was probably a 260 if it was a small block. 221, 260, 289, 302, 351W, 351C, 351M, 400. That's the small block hierarchy. But of course beginning with the 351C those are the Cleveland based engines, but they are still small blocks. The 221-351W are all Windsor based.
I've never seen a factory 289 in a truck that late though, although I am certain they put them in.
I've never seen a factory 289 in a truck that late though, although I am certain they put them in.
Last edited:
More Ford!! Thinking back to '68 the truck had 5000 mi on it and one Sun afternoon it left me afoot. Turns out a connecting rod broke, it had a flaw in the metal dealer said.. I was 20 and on way back to school Dad took care of it while i was gone. I figured they replaced that one rod. It made no noise, just quit.
All I pulled with it was 2 horses side by side , it pulled that OK .. maybe it was a 305? I thought 305 would be low compression snog motor, that came out in early 70's. RRR knows I am no ford expert!!!!!!
305=Chevy. 302=Ford. lol
abodyjoe
Well-Known Member
Chevy had a 302 in a z28.
Chevy had a 302 in a z28.
Misprint! Stiff fingers, brain dead, or just don't think much bout brand x and y !!! ha
The real argument is when was last year for 283 in pickup????? ha
Pound
Well-Known Member
BTW, truck has a five speed and I used 3,4 & 5 at different points. Speaking of small motors, my dad used to deliver propane in old sixties IH's with the "Black Diamond" six, he said they used to run em' in third and just let em' rev. They got better gas mileage and pulled the weight that way!
-
