Should I change my cam?!

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as I said in my first post
if the lifters are in order and still convex
degree it in and run it, record the intake close point at .006 cam lift - or all 4 events
do a compression check and record
drive it
if you then think that cam too big advance it 4 degrees and re-evaluate
that's like going to a 8 degree smaller cam as far as intake close point is concerned
(if cam is symmetrical but let's not get picky)
I might stay clear of a MP cam if I did not already own it but...
you need to know which way to go and how high
do you tow or work fully loaded on hills
what I'm trying to say your usage makes a big difference
with 3.25 gears and truck size tires you do need some grunt
the good news is that most (the shorter) MP cams are conservative enough that they wear well and not hard on springs
let's see
if you do need a cam change you get more bang for your buck with a solid
 
slantsix64 wrote in another thread yesterday
"Also advancing the camshaft will help build up PSI in the cylinders i had 125 Psi adavanced it four degrees and got 150psi in all cylinders if your looking for that low end grunt"

slant has a 360magnum with a HR regrind, carb, stock otherwise AFIK
slant dialed in his camshaft and did the testing

which is why I recommend testing with your current camshaft
advancing messes with your other timing events especially the ex open but is useful to help determine what seat duration cam to change to if you need to make a switch
you have read the long pieces on how cylinder pressure affects your results
 
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