Should I kill myself now?

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MOPEkidD-3: When you finally get that broken bolt out... the proper torque for the rocker shaft bolt is 200 inch pounds. Some members here have metioned 18 ft. lbs. which is close. Tighten each bolt slowly, working back and forth along the shaft, until the shaft is seated on the pedestals. Then torque the bolts down. Did this ever happen to me? Yes! Hope this helps.


200 inch pounds equals 16.666666666666666666666666666667 foot pounds.... close enough to 17 foot pounds that I mentioned. LOL!
 
if all that you were doing was chasing the threads, and it broke, it was probably already broke anyway. unless you have galled it, or tightened it into the bottom of the hole, it should come right out.
 
I think the threads farther down in the bolt hole were off a bit as it definitely got harder to turn as it went farther down in. I don't think it bottomed either because there was enough of the bolt sticking out to hold the diameter of the rocker shaft.
 
How far down in the hole is it broken off? Have access to a mig welder? If flush or down in a little, you may be able to weld , through the same size or next size up nut. Use needle nose visegrips to hold nut. Sometimes, you can weld on a piece of keystock, will work as a handle too. Spray WD first. Best performed on bench!!!!!
 
How far down in the hole is it broken off? Have access to a mig welder? If flush or down in a little, you may be able to weld , through the same size or next size up nut. Use needle nose visegrips to hold nut. Sometimes, you can weld on a piece of keystock, will work as a handle too. Spray WD first. Best performed on bench!!!!!

No way, it's at least 3/8" down in the hole. Even if I did have a MIG welder I'd try drilling it out or getting it machined first; it's been a year or so since I last welded.
 
By the way, holes need to be tapped with thread chasers or TAPS... not bolts. My guess is it will need to be drilled. Call it lesson learned.
 
By the way, holes need to be tapped with thread chasers or TAPS... not bolts. My guess is it will need to be drilled. Call it lesson learned.

Yeah, well before I tried that it felt like it might have just had a little debris or something in the threads as these are remanufactured heads. Don't worry, I'm not a complete retard. :cheers:
 
One question, will I have to get another head gasket after I remove the head? The one under there right now is just a standard (.039" I think) all-metal gasket that came with my Fel-Pro engine gasket set.

EDIT: Before anybody asks, YES the head-bolts were already torqued.
 
One question, will I have to get another head gasket after I remove the head? The one under there right now is just a standard (.039" I think) all-metal gasket that came with my Fel-Pro engine gasket set.

EDIT: Before anybody asks, YES the head-bolts were already torqued.

It should be reusable if you haven`t started the engine and heated it.
 
probably not if the motors not been run. a shot of jw coppercoat would be good insurance tho.
 
200 inch pounds equals 16.666666666666666666666666666667 foot pounds.... close enough to 17 foot pounds that I mentioned. LOL!
Thanks for the correction. 17 ft. lbs. or 200 inch lbs. Guess it depends on which torque wrench he decides to use. LOL
 
If you have access to a welder, I would try tacking another smaller bolt or the tip of a screwdriver to it , if it is accessible, as someone else suggested...

I was ready to drill out the broken bolt on my rear diff yoke and decided to try the welding idea...took 3 or 4 tries (new to welding) but it worked! Bolt backed out like it was greased with lard! LOL

Good luck whatever you do....
 
home made thread chaseing tip when you don,t have a tap take a hacksaw and cut groves in a bolt to make it look like a tap will work a lot better than just a bolt.I will give it a cutting edge with a place for the debre to go.
 

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