Slant 6 Coolant Flush

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mickey_bigdaddy

mickey_bigdaddy

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I have a bit of dilemma. I need to flush the coolant system in the motor but I don't have a radiator to use. The radiator has a hole in it and leaks bad.

I do have a new radiator to install but, I don't want to use it to flush the engine. If I do, I'm going to be polluting this new radiator with all this rust crap.

Any ideas?
 
I took it to a radiator shop it's toast and leaking everywhere. It's been sitting outside for years.

I'm thinking about just putting the new one in and flushing it without the return hose on the radiator so that all the water just comes out when the water pump pushes it out. I took the thermostat out too.

Think that will work?
 
mickey_bigdaddy said:
I took it to a radiator shop it's toast and leaking everywhere. It's been sitting outside for years.

I'm thinking about just putting the new one in and flushing it without the return hose on the radiator so that all the water just comes out when the water pump pushes it out. I took the thermostat out too.

Think that will work?
Click to expand...

Yes, that will work. Just stick a garden hose into the top of your old radiator to keep water filling the system. Keep it running until the water comes out clean. That is exactly how I did my last flush.
 
okay so water flows out the bottom of the radiator into the engine and then out the engine from the top into the top of the radiator?
 
Yes, and if you want to use a chemical flush by pass the rad and plumb the two hoses together.If you run at idle keep a eye on the temp gauge and shut down if it gets to the high end.Slants are cold blooded and as long as the water is circulating you may have as much as 10-15 minutes run time to loosen the gunk in the block.
 
I would suggest running a radiator hose from the pump inlet to the stat housing, completely bypassing the non existant radiator. Fill with water and a super flush and run for as long as your temp can hold it. Let it cool, Then run the running hose with the stat pulled to flush. Hose water will work but will only get a fraction of the potential gunk out. I really have to do the same, my slant is bright orange behind the water pump.

Ha, darter6 beat me to the punch!
 
Although this may be obvious, you'll want to remove the thermostat to allow the water to flow out, especially if you just do the hose flush.

If you plumb the circuit together, I think your going to want to flush the block with straight water to flush all the gunk out. You'll likely need to reconnect the radiator to do that. But, The plumbing you created might help you direct the flushed water into some receptacle rather then it just running everywhere from the thermostat housing.
 
mickey_bigdaddy said:
I took it to a radiator shop it's toast and leaking everywhere. It's been sitting outside for years.

I'm thinking about just putting the new one in and flushing it without the return hose on the radiator so that all the water just comes out when the water pump pushes it out. I took the thermostat out too.

Think that will work?
Click to expand...


Already done that.
 
save your time and effort. If you do not do a reverse system power flush, compressed air and water, you will not get all the crud and buildup out of the coolant passages and heater.

Go to a good rad shop and pay for a compressed air and water reverse system power flush.
 
flush it with the old radiator, then put in the new one
 
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