slant 6 swap

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carfan

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Hi all
got some questions, I'm working on a 61 lancer that hasn't ran in at least 20 years.
So far I'm getting no ware with it just doesn't want to show any sign of life, I may wait till the weather warms before giving up on it and just swapping it out. The big question is what do I have to do to get the push button tranny to match up with a latter 225?
Thanks,
Larry
 
The big question is what do I have to do to get the push button tranny to match up with a latter 225?
Thanks,
Larry

You have the small snout torque convertor to match the small pocket on an early 60s to 67 slant crank. If using a 68-later motor, simply add the adapter bushing to the crank pocket. Check with Charrlie_S on this site; he usually has them.
 
68 and later engine needs a bushing in the back of the crank they enlarged it in 68. If it has a 170 engine you may also have to lengthen the throttle linkage that goes down to the transmission the deck height of a 225 or a 198 is 1 inch taller than a 170.

Brian
 
First, why doesn't the orig. engine run,is it actually a mechanical fail(stuck valves,rusted
cylinders/rings)? A car that has been dormant that long could have a host of fuel and ign.
related issues.Using a new/good fresh charged battery? Just curious. If it is a 170 the head-
pipe will be short of the exh. manny,and a later eng. will have a cable operated throttle to
compound linkage issues. Chances are the OE 1bbl is the smaller cfm model,so it won't serve
a 225 well either.Not that there is a shortage of members here w/rod actuated 225 carbs for
you to pick-up.........
:coffee2:
 
Thanks every one I'm glad to find a place to get a bushing, there is no one around here that could make one right. Why it wont start is a very good question although the compression is not great, I'm sure from setting so long it should be enough to start. It's getting spark and cranking OK. the only thing I can think of is timing, I had to pull the dis. to replace the points and it is all most impossible to see where it lines up with number 1 because of where it sits. I had to cut the center out of a dis. cap to see where the roter really was. by the way it is a 225 I've tried gas and starting fluid just to try and get a pop out of it and so far it's stone cold dead even rotating the dis. makes no difference, so maybe I'll pull the dis. and try moving it and see what happens. The compression and the timing mark seem to be dead on so I don't think it's jumped the gear so I'm lost.
Lary
 
A little squirt of ATF in each hole to help lube the rings and seal. You may also want to run a second battery for the ignition so it is not affected by starter draw. Basically just hotwire to the ballast from the other battery. Have you checked to see how much slack is in the timing chain by moving the crank both directions and seeing how much movement you have before the distributor moves? Possibly a slipped timing chain?
 
if compression is low, when trying to start it, dump some motor oil down the throat of the carb, yes more than a few drops!! pour some in! it will increase your compression,.... if too low, it just will not run.

assuming your are getting fuel and good spark????
 
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