Small block 833 to Big block

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1973dusterkid

1973dusterkid

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What will it take to mount my small block 833 to a 400 block I know bell housing need swapped but what as far as clutch/flywheel and z bar setup.
 
same flywheel fit but its only a 10 '' disc need more like 10 1/2'' or 11''(143t flywhl requires 143 t belhsng ) or twin disc can be smaller , z bar is to lite and wrong length , mopar performance sells a z bar kit for big blocks , the clutch release arm can be a hard one for an a body , but there is complete juice set ups out there to handle that . on the trans , does it use the 727 slip yoke or the flange type ( can be converted to a yoke for a u joint , there both okay . but there is one that uses the 904 slip yoke . its a lighter load trans .
 
pomonamissel said:
same flywheel fit but its only a 10 '' disc need more like 10 1/2'' or 11''(143t flywhl requires 143 t belhsng ) or twin disc can be smaller , z bar is to lite and wrong length , mopar performance sells a z bar kit for big blocks , the clutch release arm can be a hard one for an a body , but there is complete juice set ups out there to handle that . on the trans , does it use the 727 slip yoke or the flange type ( can be converted to a yoke for a u joint , there both okay . but there is one that uses the 904 slip yoke . its a lighter load trans .
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It uses a slip yoke think it is a 904
 
Bellhousing, Z-bar, clutch fork and pivot, clutch adjuster, z-bar ballstud and bracket on the bellhousing. Every factory Z-bar I've ever seen is exactly the same for construction, same thickness tube, they all use the same bushings and same size ballstud, /6 all the way up to big block. But the configuration/length changes because of the size of the bellhousing.

As long as the bellhousing is set up for a 130 tooth flywheel no change for the flywheel or clutch is necessary unless your current clutch isn't rated for the amount of horsepower the new engine puts out.

If it uses a 904 slip yoke are we talking about an overdrive 833? Or a standard?
 
If you have the small 904yoke, do you also have the overdrive box? If yes fugedabowd putting BB torque through it. If no, then it is probably the 3.09 low box from the early 60s, 273s. Which is a Great box. Except not for BB with that small output shaft. It can be upgraded with a larger M/S.
The M/S in the O/D box can be upsized too, but the ratios are very very wide. It is more suited to a low rpm hi-torque engine; like slantys and LC teeners.
BBs with long strokes, tend to twist off the 1 x 23 input on the standard box.A 400 with the standard 3.38 stroke should be ok on the street. It will be hard to get enough traction to scare the standard box.
 
well thats the small block or slant6 type out put shaft , you could change it to the 727 output , but you need the tail stock as well . it will work but hold back on the 6grand hole shots with slicks . lol . it will be fine for a cuz'r n blaz'n da tires . but the big torque will get you fit n it more . best is hemi box , next 440 6pck , followed by 440 / 383 / 400 4bbl , next early a or b body with the flange type slant or smb , and your trans drops here , do to the output size . od trans is got a good case . but the early a's had a deep first 3.09 to 1 . good launch gear for tall gears in the butt . and also the early 833's had a better shift side plate , ball detent type under spring load , way better then the later type . but here again the later uses steel shift forks and can be modified to replace the brass ones from the early shift plate . and any 833 trans main case can be used just keep in mind the input bearings are different sizes . so there is a lot to understand for your set up . what do you want your car to be , cuz'r or rac'r or both , what percent drive /race. i'll steer you right .
 
aj/forms is a great guy to help you with your wants . he is a straight steering guy , and i enjoy reading his input also .
 
Thx P, I try hard. There are many others who try hard as well. Lot's are smarter than me. I especially like to read posts about BBs, cuz I have never had one.And some, maybe all, of the engine builders on here are FABO-lus
 
aj/forms , i've enjoy all of the members threads , i give some ideas on some threads from what i've done to fit what i broke or built not to break , lol . that info is priceless to the user, but it shear cost me alot although , lol . oh ya aj , what juice clutch release set up do you like ? do you use one ? read a thread from hemi446 on his 2dr wagon build sb w/6pck . but he used a juice set up and a smal dia mcleod double disc package mcleod claims to handle 600 ponies , but do know what torque load though . with a a833 behind it .
 
After working out the bugs in my oem linkage, I am quite happy with the way it works.
Hydraulics would be nice for their self adjusting feature, but I see no other advantage for me. And I have my adjuster modded to be a two minute deal, so even that holds no attraction for me.
Since I am a streeter with just 420 or so ponies, just about any old clutch works for me.But really the 295s are the limiting factor. I installed a CFII in about 2004, but that set-up broke everything behind it, so I swapped out the CFII disc in favor of a factory 340 disc,straight from the dealer. I also spaced the PP away from the flywheel to reduce the clamping a bit, and to help the 340disc not spit out the springs every weekend. Now it lives.I had to upsize the D/S and went to 1350s and a 2881489 carrier. That previous set-up shredded a couple of trannys too. The 340-discs don't last that long if I abuse them, but it's a lot cheaper in parts attrition,lol.And as I get older, I might be a little easier on the old girl,too.
 
aj/forms , well headers can make those adjustments a bit more timey . and your disc package is much like the 71 duster package i'm working on . although we went with a punch press brake matl's for the disc itself 340 center springs , with a diaphragm type pressure plate . it reduced paddle load and i cut the helper spring from the peddle assembly . used alot less peddle end play as well . bits hard or smooth as silk . and longer lasting then any others i've seen . on a fresh cut flywheel it puts a pattern surface from itself and won't eat anything . heat doesn't make it do anything different then cold starts . i know we used a gm type pressure plate , thats what my friction guy recommended for a street car with a stick .

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hey trublunblu , the z bar package i bought through mopar performance has a thicker walled tubing then a /6 one or an non hp la .
 
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