Small block and trans install on the k frame from the bottom advice

-

Dartndude73

FABO Gold Member
FABO Gold Member
Joined
Mar 23, 2017
Messages
57
Reaction score
12
Location
lithia fl
Hi I've removed the complete drivetrain from my 73 dart. Rear end rebuilt and installed. 727 trans rebuilt, k frame out and all new suspension parts are all installed except for the linkage and brakes. Everythings painted and ready to go. The engine bay has been repainted. The engine is at the machine shop. I should have it back shortly to finish.

I removed the transmission first. Then the engine out the top. I wasn't planning on pulling the k frame and the doing the front suspension rebuild but it needed it. When I removed the engine the headers were shot so I cut them out making removal easier. I was just going reinstall in reverse.

So with everything out I am considering installing the engine, transmission with all the components on the k frame. I'm installing a new manual steering box, Doug's headers and mini starter. Everything on the k frame - Lift the body - slide in the engine / trans and drop the body back on the k frame. I've done it before on a LS1 trans am without issue. Looks to me like the way to go on the Dart too.
Has anyone installed one this way? Anything I should be aware of ahead of time? The steering column is still in. The headers on the driver's side seem like they may be iffy. I'm not sure due to different style header and cutting the old ones out when I removed the engine.

Any suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks
 
i will be dropping the body over the engine, transmission, K Frame, the LCAs, disc brakes, PS box and Y Pipe on my 65 Dart. You ought to have no issues as your engine bay is a lot wide than the narrow early As
 
I've done it that way twice, but wouldn't bother again.
After having done it from the top so many times now, I got to thinking that I'm more or less a pro at it, lol; and so, I took my custom-built locator cradle apart, and used the metal for other projects.
To go in from the TOP;
To make it easy, I built me an engine tilter that bolts on to the carb flange. and
I usually; put the front of the car on jack stands, push the T-bars out, and drop the steering idler/pitman arms; thus I have plenty of room to install engine and trans together. I mean, the cavity is huge.
But, in 2004, I installed a GVod on my 4-speed, and since then, I take the trans/od unit off first. I plan to do that again this winter, one last time, to freshen it all up. But, this winter, I'll be doing that in a tiny workshop, so, to drop the engine down, the car will have to stay mobile. Pulling the engine out from the top, with just the BH on the back, has never been hard.
If my car didn't have a nose-cone on it, I'd be tempted to just cut the top leg of the core-support out, in a way that makes it possible to modify it and just bolt it back in, cuz honestly, that's the only hiccup to going in from the top.
But yes, my under-chassis TTI's have to be laying on the aprons, in the appropriate locations.
 

Simple. SB/904 with tti headers on it

Engineinstall.jpg
 
I'd pull the column out of the way first. If you've detailed the engine compartment and want to keep scratches to a minimum, I'd go in from the bottom as planned. With headers, it might be too tight, so, do some measuring first. I think I'd tape or pad areas that might hit just to be on the safe side.
 
Crackedbacks setup is how would do it. I've removed the header panel and grill. Im figuring I could use the bumper supports to hook up my engine hoist. Get the body up on blocks/ jack stands. Slide in the engine and trans. I use a motorcycle lift on the engine with dollies under the LCA's. Another dolly under the trans. Get it under the car and set the engine hoist back up. Ready to lower the body down. Then Jack the engine and k frame up till I can get the bolts in.

Good advice from cudamark. I'll measure everything up once I get the block back from the machine shop and rebuilt. My headers just got here today. I'll definitely pad the area up so I don't screw up my paint work. Really don't want to remove the column again but not the end of the world if I have to. It might be a good idea to leave the passenger side header off. It's a lot easier to install than the drivers. It would give me some wiggle room if I need it. I'll know better once I measure it up.
 
Crackedbacks setup is how would do it. I've removed the header panel and grill. Im figuring I could use the bumper supports to hook up my engine hoist. Get the body up on blocks/ jack stands. Slide in the engine and trans. I use a motorcycle lift on the engine with dollies under the LCA's. Another dolly under the trans. Get it under the car and set the engine hoist back up. Ready to lower the body down. Then Jack the engine and k frame up till I can get the bolts in.

Good advice from cudamark. I'll measure everything up once I get the block back from the machine shop and rebuilt. My headers just got here today. I'll definitely pad the area up so I don't screw up my paint work. Really don't want to remove the column again but not the end of the world if I have to. It might be a good idea to leave the passenger side header off. It's a lot easier to install than the drivers. It would give me some wiggle room if I need it. I'll know better once I measure it up.

Put a bar across the frame rails to lift. DO NOT hook chains and A frame them to your hoist hook. People have tweaked the front of the frame rails inward when lifting.
 
Done it from below a couple times. Went in easy and with everything mounted, if I remove engine again it would be from below. I did raise rear wheels and put them blocks. It got the whole car that much higher

IMG_2209.jpeg
 
Put it in from the bottom as a unit. That's how the factory did it!
 
I've done the removal and install from the bottom several times through the years and it's much easier than coming through the top. It helps to have more than one person, but if that's all you have, just take it slow and easy and you'll be fine. I've done it by myself a couple of times. I do mine basically the same as @crackedback, but I use a 4x4 spanning the front frame rails. Easy peasy.
 
Last edited:
-
Back
Top Bottom