Small block LA oil filter adapters.

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Oh man, the Chrysler small block is a strange animal for sure. And this is my first small block chrysler. I rebuilt 5 big blocks and never had any trouble. I went through this small block but only changed the cam, but reused the pushrods. and I'm sure it had been rebuilt recently before I got it because it still that had dull sheen on the bearings and it had barely started to rub off. Cylinder walls still a lot cross hatch left on them. So, I guess it could still be a Magnum block. I reused everything every thing else including the pushrods as they all looked to be in very good condition. So, I still don't know for sure. I'm gonna let it sit for 24 hours and see if it leaks again. I wish I knew what the difference was between the magnum plate and a regular LA plate so I could measure it, or test it, or what ever. I have a need to know thing like that. Even if there's nothing I can do about it. This current plate looks to be a perfect fit. But I have nothing to compare it too. I do have another 360 motor here but still don't know if its really an LA or Magnum. Heck, it might be a 318 for all I know. The guy I got it from says it's a fresh rebuilt 360 LA motor. Then the day after I bought it, he calls me "outa the blue" and said "Oh yeah, I forgot to tell you that motor has a really bad vibration in it". So, I really don't know what the heck is going on with that one either. Other than I cant trust anything he says after that. I never did see exactly where this motor was leaking from/but my buddy says it was the plate for sure. I know the outside of the filter was soaked w/ oil, and the header too. That header wrap will smoke for the next 50 years. LOL But it does have new oil pump, and I didn't use any silicone last time. Maybe that's the difference. I hope. I'll report back tomorrow (hopefully w/good news) and we'll see how it does. Appreciate all of you so much... Thank you


The part of the filter plate that you need to pay attention to is the bottom of the flat where the center bolt goes compared to the outer bottom flat where the gasket seals...

I had one where the flats were not the same depth/height from each other and it didn't seal...

I had a plate from a V-6 engine that jumped in my pocket at the factory as I walked by, they looked the same but turned out that it wouldn't seal because of the depth differences...
 
The part of the filter plate that you need to pay attention to is the bottom of the flat where the center bolt goes compared to the outer bottom flat where the gasket seals...

I had one where the flats were not the same depth/height from each other and it didn't seal...

I had a plate from a V-6 engine that jumped in my pocket at the factory as I walked by, they looked the same but turned out that it wouldn't seal because of the depth differences...
It's leaking again...Not as bad, but still leaking a lot. I'm at a loss... It all looks fine to me. I mean the engine is in the car. So I cant examine it as well as if it were out and upside down. The center bolt tube looks fine to me. There might be a tiny gap around the center flat part, but I assumed it would close completely when I tighten up the center tube/bolt. The engine sounds fine too. There's no knocks or valve train noise at all. That plate only has one gasket around the outer edge up against the block. Should there be another gasket in the center tube/bolt? Is that the problem your describing? Although I don't see how it could be causing to leak out of the plate or the oil filter. Seems like if the oil filter gasket is good and the seal against the block is good there shouldn't be anything leaking at all. At least that's what seems logical to me. LOL
 
The plate in your pictures is supposed to be the LA style since it has only four holes. Now you have to check the casting number on the side of the engine block. Your friend is correct; the plates are different for Magnum and LA.
It leaked again. I ordered another remote oil system from Speedway Just in case the mancini kit leaks too. I got the engine #'s don't know if u can tell what it is. But driver side has a big #1 at the front of the block followed by smaller #'s in this sequence 435830-380 The passenger side has a big #6 at the front and the #'s further back on the side are 201083.
 
It's leaking again...Not as bad, but still leaking a lot. I'm at a loss... It all looks fine to me. I mean the engine is in the car. So I cant examine it as well as if it were out and upside down. The center bolt tube looks fine to me. There might be a tiny gap around the center flat part, but I assumed it would close completely when I tighten up the center tube/bolt. The engine sounds fine too. There's no knocks or valve train noise at all. That plate only has one gasket around the outer edge up against the block. Should there be another gasket in the center tube/bolt? Is that the problem your describing? Although I don't see how it could be causing to leak out of the plate or the oil filter. Seems like if the oil filter gasket is good and the seal against the block is good there shouldn't be anything leaking at all. At least that's what seems logical to me. LOL

No, just the gasket around the outer ring...

I use gaskacinch on both sides of that gasket to help seal it...
 
It's leaking again...Not as bad, but still leaking a lot. I'm at a loss... It all looks fine to me. I mean the engine is in the car. So I cant examine it as well as if it were out and upside down. The center bolt tube looks fine to me. There might be a tiny gap around the center flat part, but I assumed it would close completely when I tighten up the center tube/bolt. The engine sounds fine too. There's no knocks or valve train noise at all. That plate only has one gasket around the outer edge up against the block. Should there be another gasket in the center tube/bolt? Is that the problem your describing? Although I don't see how it could be causing to leak out of the plate or the oil filter. Seems like if the oil filter gasket is good and the seal against the block is good there shouldn't be anything leaking at all. At least that's what seems logical to me. LOL

Think logic here... If it leaks where the center bolt is, it will all go into the oil filter and won't be a problem... Plus the filter has pressurized oil in it normally, so any leakage into the filter should not be a problem...

The problem has to be at the outer diameter not sealing for some reason... It's hard to tell why without looking...

One thing to try, is take a paint pen and make a mark on the filter adapter plate and the block somewhere... Then take off the plate and you should be able to see witness marks on the gasket where it leaks... It should be wet there... Then compare the orientation of the plate with the mark to look at the block where it is leaking... Maybe there is some dirt or old gasket there not letting it seal properly...

Always read the witness marks on your parts when you remove them... Take pictures also before you clean everything up to preserve any information that you can deduct what caused the problem... Once you clean everything, you destroy any evidence that may help you figure out any problems....
 
It leaked again. I ordered another remote oil system from Speedway Just in case the mancini kit leaks too. I got the engine #'s don't know if u can tell what it is. But driver side has a big #1 at the front of the block followed by smaller #'s in this sequence 435830-380 The passenger side has a big #6 at the front and the #'s further back on the side are 201083.
I don't see that casting number in the books I have and that -380 should be a -360 for the engine size. Maybe double check the numbers when you can to see if the other digits may be a little off. Either way though, it is not close to a Magnum casting number so it should be an LA.

It is normal to have a slight gap in the center hole before tightening down. That is how the large round gasket gets compressed.

At this point, my best guess is there is remnants of an old gasket on the block causing this leak. I know it is hard to access in the car but you will need to use a razor blade and see if any more gasket material can be scraped out of that block recess. The old gaskets can be VERY hard and are not always evident. A razor blade will cut into the gasket but won't damage the block at all.

There is a billet aluminum adapter available from Canton and from Summit racing and it uses a rubber o-ring instead of the gasket, but if old gasket material remains it will also leak.

Summit Racing SUM-120117 Summit Racing™ Oil Filter Plates | Summit Racing
 
I don't see that casting number in the books I have and that -380 should be a -360 for the engine size. Maybe double check the numbers when you can to see if the other digits may be a little off. Either way though, it is not close to a Magnum casting number so it should be an LA.

It is normal to have a slight gap in the center hole before tightening down. That is how the large round gasket gets compressed.

At this point, my best guess is there is remnants of an old gasket on the block causing this leak. I know it is hard to access in the car but you will need to use a razor blade and see if any more gasket material can be scraped out of that block recess. The old gaskets can be VERY hard and are not always evident. A razor blade will cut into the gasket but won't damage the block at all.

There is a billet aluminum adapter available from Canton and from Summit racing and it uses a rubber o-ring instead of the gasket, but if old gasket material remains it will also leak.

Summit Racing SUM-120117 Summit Racing™ Oil Filter Plates | Summit Racing
Thanks bro, I appreciate the info. I could've confused 3's for 8's or maybe 3's for a 9? I scraped the block perfectly clean when I still had it on the engine stand and there was zero old gasket anywhere. That's the one thing I'm sure of. LOL Been rebuild motors for 40 years - Not saying I'm an expert or anything, but I've never even heard of anything like this. As far as chrysler goes - I've done 5 big blocks w/ no troubles at all. I actually already had/still have a great 440 before I ever got this car, but thought a small block would be easier in this duster. This is my first chrysler small block. Like... I would've just done a 318 had I known that 360's are NOT balanced. I don't care for that at all. I know it can be balanced but I just wanted a quick easy rebuild. Not so, on this motor. Do chryslers use adifferent oil pump for 360 magnum and for 360 LA? I got an oil pump fopr an LA motor. Is that a problem? It bolted up just fine. I ordered another aluminum remote plate with o ring from Speedway. This thing is kicking my @ss. LOL I know its a new oil pump but it shouldn't be that powerful. Unless it should be for a magnum engine. I Just realized I have some pics of that motor on the stand...I'll try to blow em' up and see those #'s better. thanks man
 
I don't see that casting number in the books I have and that -380 should be a -360 for the engine size. Maybe double check the numbers when you can to see if the other digits may be a little off. Either way though, it is not close to a Magnum casting number so it should be an LA.

It is normal to have a slight gap in the center hole before tightening down. That is how the large round gasket gets compressed.

At this point, my best guess is there is remnants of an old gasket on the block causing this leak. I know it is hard to access in the car but you will need to use a razor blade and see if any more gasket material can be scraped out of that block recess. The old gaskets can be VERY hard and are not always evident. A razor blade will cut into the gasket but won't damage the block at all.

There is a billet aluminum adapter available from Canton and from Summit racing and it uses a rubber o-ring instead of the gasket, but if old gasket material remains it will also leak.

Summit Racing SUM-120117 Summit Racing™ Oil Filter Plates | Summit Racing
Here's a better look when it was on the stand/ after break in, but before in the car.

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That is definitely an LA 360 block. Magnum blocks have the cast in bosses for mid engine mounts, 3 holes each side in the middle lower part of the block, like a SBC or LS. Your block just has the ears near the front like all LA's. I'm going to venture a guess that something isn't right with your filter plate. Does the center nut that the filter screws onto have a square lug inside the hole where a 3/8 extension will plug in? About every one of them that I have seen from the factory has that feature, and using a 3/8 extension plugged into that makes it a helluva lot easier to tighten than using a wrench or socket on that little thin nut. There should be very little space between the plate and the flat on the block where the center nut goes thru. Really, not much if anymore space than the thickness of the gasket around the perimeter. If you have too much space, when you crank the center nut down, it could maybe deform the plate and cause the leak. Also, next time you pull it apart, thread the center nut in without the plate on and see if it goes way in without the plate. If it is bottoming out too soon, it may not even be tightening the plate down. Hope this helps. Just the rambling thoughts of an old guy who has had to fix my own oil leaks in the same spot since 1973....lol. Good luck.

:thumbsup:
 
Here's a better look when it was on the stand/ after break in, but before in the car.

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I see now. Here is a thread (below) with that casting number in post number 2. supposedly a two year only later LA casting. But that makes it a factory hydraulic roller camshaft block. Nice. It is getting very close to the changeover to the Magnum style adapter plate, but should be LA style like you have already ordered.

I agree with JDMopar that maybe the plate is warped or distorted, but I would really be looking hard at the block after this previous plate is removed. I actually just recently had one of those plates come off a Magnum engine and it seamed like there was no gasket at all. I started digging with a razor blade and it starting cutting out gasket material. I have done several and this was the first one where I really thought there was no gasket, but that would definitely leak.

1992 360LA block casting numbers
 
Almost forgot the oil pump question. The Magnum and LA engines do use the same oil pumps but I see in the picture you have a high volume pump. Do you have an oil pressure gauge? Do we know how much oil pressure this is making? The high volume pump spec of the pump should be fine but if the pressure relief valve is stuck I suppose it could be cranking up really excessively high pressure, maybe.
 
That is definitely an LA 360 block. Magnum blocks have the cast in bosses for mid engine mounts, 3 holes each side in the middle lower part of the block, like a SBC or LS. Your block just has the ears near the front like all LA's. I'm going to venture a guess that something isn't right with your filter plate. Does the center nut that the filter screws onto have a square lug inside the hole where a 3/8 extension will plug in? About every one of them that I have seen from the factory has that feature, and using a 3/8 extension plugged into that makes it a helluva lot easier to tighten than using a wrench or socket on that little thin nut. There should be very little space between the plate and the flat on the block where the center nut goes thru. Really, not much if anymore space than the thickness of the gasket around the perimeter. If you have too much space, when you crank the center nut down, it could maybe deform the plate and cause the leak. Also, next time you pull it apart, thread the center nut in without the plate on and see if it goes way in without the plate. If it is bottoming out too soon, it may not even be tightening the plate down. Hope this helps. Just the rambling thoughts of an old guy who has had to fix my own oil leaks in the same spot since 1973....lol. Good luck.

:thumbsup:
Thanks very much. It's good to know "for sure" what I'm dealing with now. Not knowing very much about chrysler and even less about small block chryslers, I had just assumed it was an LA block because it oiled through the rocker bar and had a flat tappet cam in it. I guess that doesn't mean anything for sure. As for the center nut hole - It's round on the inside. I bought that plate/gasket and center nut on ebay. And now that you say it's an LA block for sure - I got to thinking it might be warped even though it's brand new. The first time it leaked; it leaked from the top side and ran down all over the filter. After I removed it and put a new gasket on it and reinstalled it to a perfectly clean block... then it leaked less and from toward the back a little but mostly from bottom side now. It originally had a remote filter adapter when I got it, and I threw it away like a dummy because I didn't want the hoses to leak down there. I'd give anything to have it back now. the remote filter didn't leak a drop when I broke the cam in. I have a new mancini plate on the way - and I went ahead and a got another remote filter set up from speedway racing. That one uses an "O" ring. I appreciate your advise and thoughts on this problem. I'm inclined to agree that the plate must not be right. Now, I think it's warped. Thanks bro. I appreciate you and everyone here very much. Great group of people here.
 
Almost forgot the oil pump question. The Magnum and LA engines do use the same oil pumps but I see in the picture you have a high volume pump. Do you have an oil pressure gauge? Do we know how much oil pressure this is making? The high volume pump spec of the pump should be fine but if the pressure relief valve is stuck I suppose it could be cranking up really excessively high pressure, maybe.
Thank you for reply and all of your help. Yessir, I put an oil pressure gauge inside it. But I've been starting it from the engine compartment to check for leaks and such, as this is the first time running in this car. So, I don't know what the oil pressure is exactly. I did change the pump after I broke in the cam because the old pump was right about 10lbs at a 1000rpm and since I was changing to a mid sump for the car anyway - I thought a new pump would be a good idea. I just know that it runs quiet/ no knocks or valve train clatter. Now that we know it's an LA block for sure - it's already eliminated a lot of questions and possible miss-diagnosis. I don't even know if it's charging the battery, or if the tach works, or the gas gauge works or anything else inside the car yet. Haven't made it that far as I'm alone here. My guru buddy just stopped by for a second to confirm that it was leaking from the plate next to block and not from the oil filter "O" ring. So close - and yet so far. LOL. Excessive pressure? Oh no...I'm praying that it's a bad oil filter plate. I won't know for a while till the new one arrives. Thanks bro. appreciate u and everyone here very much.
 
Where your center nut screws into the block, on the block itself, is there a flat spot maybe 1/8 to 1/4 inch in diameter at the top of the big bolt hole? It should have that there unless someone machined it away for the remote adapter that was on it. There is a thin gasket that goes between the plate and the block, and seals up that bolt hole so that filtered and unfiltered oil doesn't mix. If you haven't used a gasket right there, that could possibly be part of the issue. It's been so long since I actually used just a plate for the oil filter, I can't remember if that particular gasket is the same as the one that is used with a factory 90 degree oil filter adapter or not? Check out the link below for some good info about the oil filter adapter gaskets. It mostly applies to the 90 degree adapters. I haven't read thru it in a long time, but it may have info about the plates like you have included. I can tell you for sure, if you ever use a 90 degree adapter on a small block, to toss the gasket that goes between the bolt head and the adapter body, and use a big copper washer!

 
Where your center nut screws into the block, on the block itself, is there a flat spot maybe 1/8 to 1/4 inch in diameter at the top of the big bolt hole? It should have that there unless someone machined it away for the remote adapter that was on it. There is a thin gasket that goes between the plate and the block, and seals up that bolt hole so that filtered and unfiltered oil doesn't mix. If you haven't used a gasket right there, that could possibly be part of the issue. It's been so long since I actually used just a plate for the oil filter, I can't remember if that particular gasket is the same as the one that is used with a factory 90 degree oil filter adapter or not? Check out the link below for some good info about the oil filter adapter gaskets. It mostly applies to the 90 degree adapters. I haven't read thru it in a long time, but it may have info about the plates like you have included. I can tell you for sure, if you ever use a 90 degree adapter on a small block, to toss the gasket that goes between the bolt head and the adapter body, and use a big copper washer!

Thanks man, appreciate the info very much. Yeah, the 90 degree adapter did have a washer there, but this plate style adapter seems to only have one gasket around the perimeter or outer edge of the plate. I see what u mean about the clean and non-clean oil mixing and also thought it was strange that there's no gasket there with the plate style system. A new type of aluminum housing and remote filter is to arrive here today. I don't really care for any of these oil filter adapters but at this point - I just want to finish it. LOL This car has been a huge hassle since I started restoring it three years ago. Either, I'm too old or I have the worst luck in the world. LOL Thanks very much for writing bro.
 
The center hole's iron boss on the Magnum is taller that on the Commando so the plates are not interchangeable. But this does not seem to be your issue as you have a 360 block and a 4 hole plate.

When I put my last 318 together it also leaked. I was using the wrong gasket set. They made a single gasket that had the outer ring with 3 fingers into the center ring and it is very thin. This is the gasket that fixed mine.
But if you obmit the center gasket and just used the thin outter one, put some Form-a-gasket #2 on the plate around the center.

Below is my 5.9 Magnumn stroked to 410CI. You can see the plate. I drilled all 6 holes out to 3/8 inch. All main bearing feeds are 5/16 and all oil passages are at 1/2 inch. I forgot to put the Oil Sender in the block when I primed it and coated my Garage Celing with fresh 10W40.

A Wix 51515 filter fits the raised part of the plate. Quick glance it looks sloppy but it seals fine. I have cleaned all the paint off that plate, screwed on a filter and repainted it.

I am running a stock oil pump but I have a home made Kevco Oil Pump cover with the direct injection 5/8 pickup.

5.9 Mag stroker.jpg


Home and Kevko.jpg


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There is a wider variety of LA heads available than Magnum heads, so running LA heads on a Magnum block with appropriate oiling is a good way get a head with desired performance level at a lower cost, when done correctly.
FYI there is a good utube vid on doing this. didn't look difficult, mods to the rocker arms.
 
The center hole's iron boss on the Magnum is taller that on the Commando so the plates are not interchangeable. But this does not seem to be your issue as you have a 360 block and a 4 hole plate.

When I put my last 318 together it also leaked. I was using the wrong gasket set. They made a single gasket that had the outer ring with 3 fingers into the center ring and it is very thin. This is the gasket that fixed mine.
But if you obmit the center gasket and just used the thin outter one, put some Form-a-gasket #2 on the plate around the center.

Below is my 5.9 Magnumn stroked to 410CI. You can see the plate. I drilled all 6 holes out to 3/8 inch. All main bearing feeds are 5/16 and all oil passages are at 1/2 inch. I forgot to put the Oil Sender in the block when I primed it and coated my Garage Celing with fresh 10W40.

A Wix 51515 filter fits the raised part of the plate. Quick glance it looks sloppy but it seals fine. I have cleaned all the paint off that plate, screwed on a filter and repainted it.

I am running a stock oil pump but I have a home made Kevco Oil Pump cover with the direct injection 5/8 pickup.

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Thanks man, I think the plate is bent a little. I marked it where it leaked at the block and put it back together w/a new gasket and rotated it about 90 degrees. it leaked again exactly where i marked the plate. I ordered a remote filter housing adapter and it was too small. I don't care for the adapter plate style I was using either because it leaks too. I just bought another 90 degree oil filter adapter - just like the one I threw away. should be here in a week or so and I'll be back on the road after 17-18 years in a junk yard and a few of those at my house too. I'm sure it'll be just fine with the 90...It never leaked with the 90. it just makes a huge mess when I change it, and I have header tape too, so I'll have to cover it up some how to keep from soaking the wrap/tape. I'll just have to live with it. but appreciate your input very much. Good luck w/the stroker build. Looks great!
 
Try to get some copper washers like these so you can use one between the big bolt head and the 90 degree adapter. You will have to hone the ID of the washer a little to make it fit, but it doesn't take but a second with a round file or die grinder. Rub a little oil on both sides of the washer and then torque it down.
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"Thank you" to everyone. All of your advice and input saved me from having to pull the motor back out again. Both of the new remote adapters I bought from Summit were too small and didn't fit. And the 2nd new filter plate I bought leaked just like the first one I just bought. Just a little, but it still leaked... I was going crazy. I've had the worst luck on this build. 4 brand new adapters in a row and none of em' worked for one reason or another. What are the chances of that? Well, at least in the middle of all of that - I did remember to let it run long enough to check the oil pressure. it was 75 lbs at 900 rpm. So, it's not too radically high. I ended up finding another used 90 degree oil filter adapter on eBay. It looks just like the one I threw away. I was so stupid to do that. Anyway, it worked like a charm. We have zero leaks now. I'm so relieved. Thanks everyone

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"Thank you" to everyone. All of your advice and input saved me from having to pull the motor back out again. Both of the new remote adapters I bought from Summit were too small and didn't fit. And the 2nd new filter plate I bought leaked just like the first one I just bought. Just a little, but it still leaked... I was going crazy. I've had the worst luck on this build. 4 brand new adapters in a row and none of em' worked for one reason or another. What are the chances of that? Well, at least in the middle of all of that - I did remember to let it run long enough to check the oil pressure. it was 75 lbs at 900 rpm. So, it's not too radically high. I ended up finding another used 90 degree oil filter adapter on eBay. It looks just like the one I threw away. I was so stupid to do that. Anyway, it worked like a charm. We have zero leaks now. I'm so relieved. Thanks everyone

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Happy to hear you have it working. Thanks for updating this thread with your results.
 
Canton plate and summit filter relocation setup.
I think I put pics up back in 2017+/- a year in the what are doing to your car today thread.
 
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