chad h
Member
So im near completing my 340 what i need to know is what pulleys can i use its a1968 block with jheads every were i look has 70 and up pulleys ill also need info on alternator bracket no air or power steering thank you
small block pulleys
- Thread starter chad h
- Start date
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Plymouth 65
I'll be in the shop
I believe if you have power steering you will need a dual groove crankshaft pulley, if no power steering a single groove.
First off, what car is it in??? year and model....
Then look at the water pump to see if it's the cast iron or aluminum...
Then we can go from there...
chad h
Member
chad h
Member
This one is going in a street rod have not purchased water pump yet
You need to figure out what timing chain and water pump combo to run...
The 68 originally took the old style timing chain cover and cast iron water pump. Th,e timing marks for this are on the pass side of the engine. In 70 they changed the timing marks over to the driver's side and ran the aluminum water pump and the lower radaitor outlet changed sides also. If you mis-match the timing chain cover and water pumps, they can block the timing marks...
Figure out What side you need the timing marks on and what style water pump you are going to use and set it up for that.
Use the original harmonic balancer, and if the mark is in the wrong position, find TDC with a piston stop tool, then mark TDC to go with the timing marks on the timing cover.
68 340
Well-Known Member
If you do not have the timing chain cover, radiator or water pump, go with the 70 and up style set up. The advantages are as follows: (1) The timing chain cover has the timing marks on the driver side of the vehicle. (2) You can use the aluminum water pump. (3) All of the parts (water pump, radiator, timing chain cover, radiator hoses) are easier to find and less expensive to purchase. My favorite radiator configuration has the inlet near the radiator cap and the outlet on the lower passenger side of vehicle. Retaining the 68-69 inlet position provides more room around the carb return spring bracket. The routing of the 70 and up inlet position routes the inlet radiator hose over the carb return spring bracket.
68 340
Well-Known Member
We need to know what harmonic balancer you are using as well to give advice on the correct crankshaft and water pump pulley. Stock? Aftermarket?
chad h
Member
After market sound like I should switch to 70 and later also I do have stock balancer but not in good shape
68 340
Well-Known Member
I am assuming that your 68 340 is internally balanced. If my assumption is correct, you have a few decisions to make. Is this a street only car? Street/strip car? Or race only? How important is an SFI rating to you? A few good SFI rated balancers are ATI, FluidDampr, and Pro-Race PRP. I have used both the FluidDampr and Pro-Race PRP balancers. The FluidDampr has two designs. The old balancers were not recessed in the center and do not provide the proper pulley alignment. The balancer width is greater than the OEM balancer. The easy way to make the pulleys align with the older FluidDampr design is to obtain a 1968-1969 340 crank pulley. The pre-70 crank pulley is much shorter that the 70 an up design. If you have the second design FluidDampr with the recessed center, you can use the 70 and up crank pulley. Pulley alignment should not be an issue. FluidDampr makes a good balancer but not everyone is willing to pay $430-450 for one. Timing marks are set in white. Big bonus for people that adjust timing often and do not have the best eyesight.
The Pro-Race PRP balancer sold at Mancini Racing and Hughes Engines is SFI rated and cost is about $370. This balancer is a direct replacement to the OEM balancer. The pulleys will line up correctly. Timing marks are etched into the balancer but are hard to read under most lighting conditions. The pro-race balancer is a great value if you can find one packaged and sold by Summit Racing in the past. Cyco Systems 64277 is the part number. Look on eBay for this balancer. They sold for under $200 when everyone else was selling the Pro-Race name for over $300. I still have a Pro-Race balancer in my extra parts bin. I used it for two seasons with no problems. It has a little surface rust but works fine. The only reason I removed it and put the FluidDampr on my engine was I got tired of putting timing tape on the Pro-Race balancer. I adjust/verify timing a lot and my eyes are not as good as they were when I was 20 years old. Hope the information helps. I am sure a few more members will provide some suggestions for you as well. Good luck getting the vehicle on the street or strip.
The Pro-Race PRP balancer sold at Mancini Racing and Hughes Engines is SFI rated and cost is about $370. This balancer is a direct replacement to the OEM balancer. The pulleys will line up correctly. Timing marks are etched into the balancer but are hard to read under most lighting conditions. The pro-race balancer is a great value if you can find one packaged and sold by Summit Racing in the past. Cyco Systems 64277 is the part number. Look on eBay for this balancer. They sold for under $200 when everyone else was selling the Pro-Race name for over $300. I still have a Pro-Race balancer in my extra parts bin. I used it for two seasons with no problems. It has a little surface rust but works fine. The only reason I removed it and put the FluidDampr on my engine was I got tired of putting timing tape on the Pro-Race balancer. I adjust/verify timing a lot and my eyes are not as good as they were when I was 20 years old. Hope the information helps. I am sure a few more members will provide some suggestions for you as well. Good luck getting the vehicle on the street or strip.
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