small block swap

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doopdoop67

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hi people, I'm new to this page. so I'm kinda confused. does anyone know what it'll take to put a 340 or 318 into a slant 6 car? I'm thinking about doing the swap but i don't know what need to be done in order for that to happen. if anyone knows please give me some advice thanks
 
You will need either a V8 K member or use the Schumacher conversion mounts for the engine to bolt in, you will also need a smallblock transmission as the one from the /6 won't work.
 
Same as Bruce suggested above, but I would prefer to get the v-8 k-frame and proper repro mounts...

You will have to adjust the engine compartment wiring harness for the different locations of the components. Maybe grab a donor harness or do it yourself if you know how...

If you are talking an early a body (66 and earlier), then you will also have to get a v-8 center link from a v-8 car as it has more clearance for the v-8 oil pan.
 
As Karl mentioned a K frame swap would be ideal, if it were me that's what I would do. I just mentioned the options.
 
If you plan to do a K frame and want disc brakes with the larger later bolt pattern, get the 73-up K.
 
If you plan to do a K frame and want disc brakes with the larger later bolt pattern, get the 73-up K.

Good point, but be aware that then you will have 4 1/2" bolt pattern up front and 4" in the rear, requiring two different spare tires...

You should then get the rear to 4 1/2" bolt pattern to match...


Also be aware that the 73 and up motor mounts are different from the 67-72 sandwich style mounts.

If you want to keep the 4" bolt pattern, then go with a 67-72 k frame and kelsey hayes 4 piston discs...
 
Actually, finding a 73+ V8 CAR would not be a bad plan............

Lots of parts including........

The K frame and disc brake swap, and maybe heavier T bars

Rear axle would be larger probably an 8 1/4 as opposed to what you probably have now, a 7 1/4

On my car, I took a second set of rear leafs apart, bought new U bolts and spring clips, and "built" new spring packs by using the longest leafs from both cars. I believe I put one more leaf in from stock. This ended up with a stiffer pack which raised the rear a bit.
 
Good point, but be aware that then you will have 4 1/2" bolt pattern up front and 4" in the rear, requiring two different spare tires...

You should then get the rear to 4 1/2" bolt pattern to match...


Also be aware that the 73 and up motor mounts are different from the 67-72 sandwich style mounts.

If you want to keep the 4" bolt pattern, then go with a 67-72 k frame and kelsey hayes 4 piston discs...

4 1/2 bolt pattern would be a good upgrade both front and rear for wheel choices down the road.
 
you guys are great, i actually posted another thing before this about disk brake converstion kits because I'm going to do brakes before motor. its going to be a slow build because I'm on a high school budget.
 
The 8-1/4 rear from a '73-up or an 8.25/8.8 from a small Jeep/truck would be likely be a good upgrade since you've likely got a 7.25 in it now.
 
If money is tight and front suspension is in good shape, and you're not putting a 700 hp engine in it ,go with the Schumacher motor mount swap. Might need to use a few shims to clear the power steering box if using Hooker headers.
But overall was pretty simple .
I did it by myself.
 
IMHO.....rock what you got.. Save your money and go after one already done. Do it when the sixer eats it and do the mount swap. And stay small bolt and small rear for now.
 
I did the same swap in my 74 Duster. I just used the Schumacher motor mounts. I beat the snot out of my 360 and I haven't had a problem with them. You will probably have to get a bigger radiator also. I used summit racings block hugger headders to avoid the steering linkage interference and they are low budget friendly too, just make sure they are the ones with the flat collectors. Good luck and welcome to the site. There is a lot of good info here and a lot of guys with good helpful advice.
 
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