sniper wiring RF and temp sender.

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clementine said:
Not sure, but I believe its tucked into the float bowl area on these units. I have read some of the things guys have done like lining that cavity to faraday cage it and such. My thought is to get it installed as close to the instructions as possible. I am running battery in trunk and this issue with wires needing length are the big changes so far. I am fairly certain I ordered for a 383 BB, so why do they give you enough wire to run the dist wires across or under the intake? Seems like a hot area to choose. Anywho....Ill keep 'plugging' (get it? ....electrical?...ugh...horrible ..) along.

Thank you for the input. Half of this is mental and having the confidence to just put it together loosely and get the engine to fire, then troubleshoot.
Click to expand...

If running a battery in the trunk - couple of things to consider:
1. make sure wire gauge size for the Sniper power wires to the battery is at least as per Holley requirements. Would be best to increase the size of the wire.
2. make sure to run a HEAVY ground cable back the block and then block to frame. Do not run the ground from the battery to the frame in the trunk.

What distributor/ignition system are you using?
Jim
 
I installed a trunk battery on my 6.1 L Hemi '69 Cuda with a FAST XFI 2.0 EFI system and had a "work of art" ground installed to the bumper frame bolt. Got royally chewed out by a FAST tech support guru!!! The system did seem to work OK but apparently goes against all the instructions for installing trunk batteries with FI systems. I tore it all out and ran a welding cable to the engine!!
 
RealWing said:
I installed a trunk battery on my 6.1 L Hemi '69 Cuda with a FAST XFI 2.0 EFI system and had a "work of art" ground installed to the bumper frame bolt. Got royally chewed out by a FAST tech support guru!!! The system did seem to work OK but apparently goes against all the instructions for installing trunk batteries with FI systems. I tore it all out and ran a welding cable to the engine!!
Click to expand...

copy that. roger wilco
 
RealWing said:
make sure wire gauge size for the Sniper power wires to the battery is at least as per Holley requirements. Would be best to increase the size of the wire.
Click to expand...


So the red/black wires that are supposed to be run directly to battery could possibly have better connectivity if run to a 'constant' positive/negative post (not the starter post, Im putting a cutoff under driver seat) that are big (1/0)? or better to follow instruction and splice to run same size wire all the way back to batt?
 
clementine said:
So the red/black wires that are supposed to be run directly to battery could possibly have better connectivity if run to a 'constant' positive/negative post (not the starter post, Im putting a cutoff under driver seat) that are big (1/0)? or better to follow instruction and splice to run same size wire all the way back to batt?
Click to expand...

Need to follow the Holley wiring instructions to the letter!! The battery acts as filter capacitor to help clip any voltage spikes.

EFI Wiring Tips: Proper Ground And Voltage


GENERAL WIRING REFERENCE

An EFI system depends heavily on being supplied a clean and constant voltage source. The grounds of an electrical system are just as important as the power side.

Sniper EFI contains multiple processing devices that require clean power and ground sources. The wiring for them must be installed in such a manner that they are separated from “dirty” power and ground sources.

DO’S

 Install the main power and ground directly to the battery. To the POSTS/TERMINALS, not to any other place.

 Keep sensor and crank signal (distributor) wiring away from high voltage or “noisy/dirty” components and wiring, especially secondary ignition wiring (plug wires), ignition boxes, water pumps, fans and other associated wiring. It is best that the plug wires not physically contact any EFI wires.

 Properly crimp or crimp and solder any wire connections. Apply quality heat shrink over any of these connections.

 It is critical that the engine has a proper ground connection from the battery to the chassis, and the battery to the engine.


DON’TS

 NEVER run high voltage or “noisy/dirty” wires in parallel (bundle/loom together) with any EFI sensor wiring. If wires need to cross, try to do so at an angle.

 Don’t use the electric fan outputs to directly power a fan. They must only trigger a relay.

 Don’t use improper crimping tools.

 Don’t use things like “t-taps”, etc. Use proper crimpers/solder and heat shrink.

 It is never recommended to splice/share signal wires (such as TPS, etc.) between different electronic control units (i.e. “piggyback”).

 Don’t connect the PINK switched +12V wire to “dirty” sources, such as the ignition coil, audio systems, or 12V sources connected to HID head lamps.

 NEVER start an engine with a battery charger attached
 
clementine said:
hyperspark



damn....are you sure? That wire (that i ran already) is a work of art!
Click to expand...

I have my grounds in the trunk , if u did a good job , it`ll work . I grounded the pass. head to the fire wall , like stock, but with alum. motor plates -probly not needed .
 
RealWing said:
Need to follow the Holley wiring instructions to the letter!! The battery acts as filter capacitor to help clip any voltage spikes.

EFI Wiring Tips: Proper Ground And Voltage


GENERAL WIRING REFERENCE

An EFI system depends heavily on being supplied a clean and constant voltage source. The grounds of an electrical system are just as important as the power side.

Sniper EFI contains multiple processing devices that require clean power and ground sources. The wiring for them must be installed in such a manner that they are separated from “dirty” power and ground sources.

DO’S

 Install the main power and ground directly to the battery. To the POSTS/TERMINALS, not to any other place.

 Keep sensor and crank signal (distributor) wiring away from high voltage or “noisy/dirty” components and wiring, especially secondary ignition wiring (plug wires), ignition boxes, water pumps, fans and other associated wiring. It is best that the plug wires not physically contact any EFI wires.

 Properly crimp or crimp and solder any wire connections. Apply quality heat shrink over any of these connections.

 It is critical that the engine has a proper ground connection from the battery to the chassis, and the battery to the engine.


DON’TS

 NEVER run high voltage or “noisy/dirty” wires in parallel (bundle/loom together) with any EFI sensor wiring. If wires need to cross, try to do so at an angle.

 Don’t use the electric fan outputs to directly power a fan. They must only trigger a relay.

 Don’t use improper crimping tools.

 Don’t use things like “t-taps”, etc. Use proper crimpers/solder and heat shrink.

 It is never recommended to splice/share signal wires (such as TPS, etc.) between different electronic control units (i.e. “piggyback”).

 Don’t connect the PINK switched +12V wire to “dirty” sources, such as the ignition coil, audio systems, or 12V sources connected to HID head lamps.

 NEVER start an engine with a battery charger attached
Click to expand...

All good ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
 
So, 1/0 is considerably more expensive ya? May i make the negative run from the battery to the block with 1 gauge?

Sorry for the small details here. I have seen the negative smaller but if 1/0 is necessary.... so be it.
 
clementine said:
So, 1/0 is considerably more expensive ya? May i make the negative run from the battery to the block with 1 gauge?

Sorry for the small details here. I have seen the negative smaller but if 1/0 is necessary.... so be it.
Click to expand...

not necessary in my opinion------
 
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