Snorkel Scoop

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nodemon

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Has anyone done repair on a snorkel scoop...or any fiberglass panel for that matter..? My OEM scoop I bought was delivered today... Of course, the person I bought it from told me no damage ...no cracks...no breaks...it's all good he says.. I had him take several pics of it...he even sent a short vid of it.. All looked good to me, with his backing words.
As soon as I start looking I notice 2 nasty cracks that are all the way through..top and bottom side.. and then another that's visible on just the bottom.
Anyway, I'm going to need it repaired and I know nothing about body work.. Is fiberglass easy to work with..? Is it comparable to metal work..? More expensive..? I'm so pissed off...lol
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Damn, sorry to read, I saw the other thread showing the differences between the 2 scoop styles that you were asking about...:BangHead:
Sorry no help here...
Has anyone done repair on a snorkel scoop...or any fiberglass panel for that matter..? My OEM scoop I bought was delivered today... Of course, the person I bought it from told me no damage ...no cracks...no breaks...it's all good he says.. I had him take several pics of it...he even sent a short vid of it.. All looked good to me, with his backing words.
As soon as I start looking I notice 2 nasty cracks that are all the way through..top and bottom side.. and then another that's visible on just the bottom.
Anyway, I'm going to need it repaired and I know nothing about body work.. Is fiberglass easy to work with..? Is it comparable to metal work..? More expensive..? I'm so pissed off...lolView attachment 1715840563 View attachment 1715840564 View attachment 1715840565 View attachment 1715840566
 
I think fiberglass is easier than metal. Probably plenty of instructional videos online. It's just messy, sticky, and itchy. You can get used to working with it and learn what not to do. If you sand or grind fiberglass, you should wear a dust mask. Then if your hands and arms are covered in glass dust, don't lean on anything. You will be pushing glass pieces into your skin. Your results may be better if you have a small digital scale to weigh resin and hardener.ì
 
Damn, sorry to read, I saw the other thread showing the differences between the 2 scoop styles that you were asking about...:BangHead:
Sorry no help here...
Yep, I was lucky to find the scoop right for my car..not so lucky that it's in need of repair. Now I have two scoops, one wrong and one damaged ..ugh...
 
I think fiberglass is easier than metal. Probably plenty of instructional videos online. It's just messy, sticky, and itchy. You can get used to working with it and learn what not to do. If you sand or grind fiberglass, you should wear a dust mask. Then if your hands and arms are covered in glass dust, don't lean on anything. You will be pushing glass pieces into your skin. Your results may be better if you have a small digital scale to weigh resin and hardener.ì
I appreciate that..but I'm in no way a body guy.. I'll end up paying an arm and a leg to have it repaired, making the scoop way overpriced.. That's the way it's been though with this whole project of mine.. Parts are pricey enough, without having AssClowns lie about what they're selling..
 
What are those things worth? I'll keep my eyes open up here for you if you want
Yep, I was lucky to find the scoop right for my car..not so lucky that it's in need of repair. Now I have two scoops, one wrong and one damaged ..ugh...
 
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"V" the cracks out inside and outside and mix fiber glass resin and hardener and add some fiberglass strands you pull off a repair cloth. Mix and fill. The more strands the better. Sand smooth and use 2 part urethane primer to do final prep for paint . This is the correct way.

Bondo/plastic or fiber fill/gorilla hair will eventually show up in the repair down the road.
 
sorry to hear about this considering it sounds like this scoop was expensive. I have seen NAPA selling small fiberglass patch panel kits (a sheet or 2 or glass with the resins and hardeners needed) I don't know how "original" you need it too look or how invisible for the repair to be. If it was me I would lay it on thick on the inside of the scoop of each crack and on the outside just to the bare minimum to be able to sand it smooth. As was mentioned before, glass can be itchy and the dust is gnarly so be sure to use a mask while sanding
 
sorry to hear about this considering it sounds like this scoop was expensive. I have seen NAPA selling small fiberglass patch panel kits (a sheet or 2 or glass with the resins and hardeners needed) I don't know how "original" you need it too look or how invisible for the repair to be. If it was me I would lay it on thick on the inside of the scoop of each crack and on the outside just to the bare minimum to be able to sand it smooth. As was mentioned before, glass can be itchy and the dust is gnarly so be sure to use a mask while sanding
I appreciate the response.
I've not done any type of body work.. I'm not completely opposed to learning and trying, I'd just rather not learn, try, fail and possibly make things worse on my project..lol
Body work has always scared the *ish out of me..
 
I'm about ready to give up and sell this car.
It's was a mission of mine to find my old Demon that I sold in 2005 after owning it for 21 years..
I looked and looked for it not long after I sold. Then I was diagnosed with cancer and the search heated up. Couldn't find it so I bought the Demon I have now.. Thought for sure it would at least be drivable by now, and almost finished. Shipping delays, cash and dealing with crappy people have all but drained me. One step forward, two steps back...as the saying goes..
 
I'm about ready to give up and sell this car.
It's was a mission of mine to find my old Demon that I sold in 2005 after owning it for 21 years..
I looked and looked for it not long after I sold. Then I was diagnosed with cancer and the search heated up. Couldn't find it so I bought the Demon I have now.. Thought for sure it would at least be drivable by now, and almost finished. Shipping delays, cash and dealing with crappy people have all but drained me. One step forward, two steps back...as the saying goes..
Don't give up yet on the car....
It sounds like you have been through a lot and deserve to have a nice car to be proud of.
You have been given some sound advice by the members here, so just tackle the project and put it behind you with a few new swear words you invent as you go!
Restoring these cars can be very frustrating at times and will nickle and dime you to death, let alone getting ripped off by people selling parts.
Maybe walk away from it for a few weeks or so and reassess the situation after you've cooled off for a bit.

I don't know how many times that I have seriously considered quitting on my projects and just sell everything off and get out of the car game completely.
But, after I cool off for a bit, the picture becomes bigger and I dig back in to solve the issue no matter what it is.

It's the love of the cars and it's in our blood.
You can't change that.....
 
It depends on the plastic the scoop is made of. If you can see fiberglass hairs on the inside of the scoop it is epoxy resin. If there are none it may be made of polypropylene vacuum formed from sheet material. Epoxy plastics do not stick well to polypropylene which is a thermoforming plastic. Epoxy is a thermosetting plastic, two distinctly different materials. Never the less I started to repair this polypropylene hood scoop that had the corners broken off. Not sure how it will hold up to use.
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Procedure is the same for both materials, thoughly rough up the inside and out side of scoop with 50 grit paper.
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This gives the epoxy something to grip to. Grind a V on both sides of the crack but not all the way trough. Clean the plastic with MEK. Hardware store will have it. Don’t breath it though cause its nasty ****. Tape the out side of the crack shut with gorilla tape to hold it shut. Then coat the inside of the crack with a mixture of epoxy resin mixed with hardener.
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Google bbc or just call Kindt Collins company. Talk to their tech line, there are various grades of epoxy resin available and they will help you choose the best grade. Bbc will be the cheaper of the two. Lay a sheet of fiberglass cloth on top of the epoxy and coat it again with epoxy.
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Let it set over night and it should look something like this.
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Then start on the outside by removing the gorilla tape and cleaning all tape adhesive off with MEK. Coat the outside with epoxy topcoat mixed with hardener but no glass cloth.
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Should look something like this. Let dry over night and start sanding flush with 180 paper progressing to 220 paper and then body work it. Pm me and I can send you some glass cloth or if you’re close to Milwaukee,Wisconsin I can help you with this project.
 
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