So what oil SHOULD be used with a new engine AND why?

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OL DODGE

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So what oil SHOULD be used with a new engine AND why? Here's the thing-my old engine builder said to use straight 30 weight non-detergent oil: The engine builder I have now said to use whatever you would normally use. In the book by Larry Sheppard "How to build a Small Block Mopar".he states to use either straight 30 weight or 15w40. I bought Wolfs Head straight 30 weight non-detergent oil but it says "hydraulic and compression oil" on the bottle with no combustion engine references. It's 80 degrees outside =do you think this oil is ok?
I have ALWAYS used a Pennzoil oil with ALL my engines and have never had an issue but finding a Pennzoil in straight 30 is next to impossible,btw.....
The new engine is a performance engine,big hydraulic cam,aftermarket pistons,etc
 
What cam are you using hyd. solid flat tappet.. hyd.roller or solid roller...
 
To throw a wrench in the system.... I have recently installed a roller cam. I was told to use oil that has zinc in it because "oil is not what it used to be so it's best to run a zinc oil or zinc additive with a roller cam as well"
As much money I had to put on the table for the roller lifters and cam I didn't want to take any chances. 10w30 was also the recommended weight.
Need less to say I'm running Joe Gibbs racing oil.
 
if you ask a thousand people, you'll get a thousand different answers. I don't know about break-in oil, but racing oil is NOT the answer for anyone, but maybe true race engines used in racing only. I suggest going to ramforum.com and reading their oil thread. It's about a 1000 pages. Some of it is just back and forth, some anecdotal evidence, but generally some interesting discussion. I also like the oil rat blog. You can look it up on Google. He has some interesting ideas. If you're like me, you'll accept most of it, but make your own version from your own experiences.
I don't like the idea of non-detergent oils for IC engines. Most name brand oils are all good, just some are better. Zinc is good for flat tappet engines, some have enough as-is, some need a zinc additive. But it's not one of those cases where "a little is good, then more must be better, and too much is just right."
I am a believer in good filtration. I use WIX 51515, or 51515XP filters where possible, but I hear there a few other filters which are good, but to me they seem over-priced in comparison . I also use magnetic drain plugs, and Filtermags. Generally, I use 5K mile or one year oil change intervals, whichever occurs first. But I monitor the color of the oil on the dipstick, whenever I fill up. I also, use an oil filter cutter to examine my filters.
 
OL DODGE said:
it's a hydraulic Comp Cam and I do know about the zinc thing and about using "break-in" additive at first
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OK..Joe Gibbs 10w-30 break-in oil to break the cam in you won't need anymore zinc its loaded with it..
 
Break-in oil,zinc seems to be the flavour of the year. I installed a 350 in a corvette,builder supplied zinc encrusted oil, thats what i put in. 500 km for first service then whatever he wants to do after that.
 
OL DODGE said:
it's a hydraulic Comp Cam and I do know about the zinc thing and about using "break-in" additive at first
Click to expand...
Ol Dodge, I would use a 10w30 Brad Penn oil, it has all the Zinc additives our old oil use to have.
For break in and daily driving.
 
OL DODGE said:
I bought Wolfs Head straight 30 weight non-detergent oil but it says "hydraulic and compression oil" on the bottle with no combustion engine references. It's 80 degrees outside =do you think this oil is ok?
Click to expand...
NO. Here is that oil's description from the mfr:
"Wolfs Head Hydraulic and Compressor Oil - Non-Detergent Motor Oil is a high quality mineral crankcase engine oil and general purpose oil. While modern applications are mostly in small compressor and hydraulic systems, Wolfs Head Non-Detergent Motor oil is built from high-quality mineral base stocks and may be used in crankcase engine applications wherever API SA/SB monograde oil is recommended."

SA and SB are OLD, OLD, OBSOLETE oil specs to begin with, and being non-detergent mineral base, is not appropriate at all. It is the oil used in baby oil LOL

Try the Brad Penn for the reasons stated above and then change to what you like later.

BTW, I run a lot of synthetics but don't use that for break-in. I am concerned on the rings not breaking in well with a synthetic.

Only certain grades of any oils have adequate ZDDP for flat tappet cams. You need to keep that up after break-in and through the life of the engine. Some engines with stock valve springs may do fine without the older levels of ZDDP (1200-1300 PPM) but cams with stronger valve springs are at increased risk of cam/lifter failure without adequate ZDDP levels.
 
OL DODGE said:
So what oil SHOULD be used with a new engine AND why? Here's the thing-my old engine builder said to use straight 30 weight non-detergent oil: The engine builder I have now said to use whatever you would normally use. In the book by Larry Sheppard "How to build a Small Block Mopar".he states to use either straight 30 weight or 15w40. I bought Wolfs Head straight 30 weight non-detergent oil but it says "hydraulic and compression oil" on the bottle with no combustion engine references. It's 80 degrees outside =do you think this oil is ok?
I have ALWAYS used a Pennzoil oil with ALL my engines and have never had an issue but finding a Pennzoil in straight 30 is next to impossible,btw.....
The new engine is a performance engine,big hydraulic cam,aftermarket pistons,etc
Click to expand...

Well, since FIAT owns Chrysler, you should run olive oil.

Service manual for my 68 Barracuda says 20w50 so that's what I run.

Royal Purple HPS 20w50. About $50 per case at summit. It does the job.
 
Ottmundr said:
Well, since FIAT owns Chrysler, you should run olive oil.

Service manual for my 68 Barracuda says 20w50 so that's what I run.

Royal Purple HPS 20w50. About $50 per case at summit. It does the job.
Click to expand...
Their racing version is a bit more, but that is a good deal if it has the right zinc level etc.
I use Schaeffer's, they make it very clear...EXTRA ZINC!

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