So you're standing at the parts counter.....

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4spdragtop

4spdragtop

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And the parts person asks you what year of car?
Depending on what your looking for, that could be a VERY good question.
This thought occurred to me a while back but became more prevalent on my "initial timing" thread.
Lemme explain....so our car is a 67 cuda. 273, 904, BUT I've "upgraded" to 70+ voltage regulator and alternator.
It also has elec ignition(1st came out in 72 or 3? Now we know that the alt, vr, ecu, and ballast resistor are linked together.
When thinking my electrical issue was coil related, I started digging for specs...well what year of specs? 67? Apparently with points, ballasts/coils these were specd different?
So now we move to 72/3 and up for elec ignition and those coils/ballasts are specs differently. I found several differently rated coils and br's?
I looked thru a couple FSM and couldnt find ratings for ones with elec ign.
My br in car is 0.6 ohm? Is it correct? Dunno...my coil in car is is 1.4 ohm primary and 8.49K ohm 2ndary. Correct? Dunno but it's in ball park from what I've found.
The MP backup coil I have measured 0.8 ohm primary and 4.39K ohm 2ndary. Basically 1/2 the resistance of the coil in car. I bought a new coil by SMP #UC12 1.49 Primary and 8.75K 2ndary. Identical to what's in the car.
Using Ohms law, changing the resistance will change the amps(when volts remain constant). I'm electrically challenged, but I know the life of our electronics(ecu) is largely dependent on the size of the amps?
With the coils and br I looked at, if I'm thinking properly, 1/2 the resistance would theoretically mean double the amps(if v is constant). Damage may or may not occur?
My br is 0.6 ohms, seems to be about 1/2 of what I've seen online?(1.2).
I have a RU37 SMP br ordered, we will see what it ohms out at. It apparently is a match to the coil UC12.
To get the RU37 and UC12 I used a 73 340 Dart so it included elec ign in the "look up". Now I'm using an orange box. I'm assuming its OEM. Now is it from an MP elec ign kit? I dunno, would the MP kit spec out the same as a 73 340 Dart? Dunno.
Then you can also add in the distributor, are pickup modules specs the same, oem vs MP? Obviously aftermarket is all over the map on this.
I was worried about swapping my coil for the MP one as I didnt want too many amps killing my Oem orange box ECU.
Just thinking lol.
[B][I]Anyone got oem specs for elec ignition?[/I][/B]

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Just tell them you have a 1970 Challenger 426-8 and need wiper blades.
Even if ya gave a slant six 3 speed. You know what ya need tget don't.
Most everyone working there is a moron.
Or just do like I do and Rockauto it for less, or look in ya Mopar parts book, etc.
Only you know what ya need.
Back in the 80s- to mod 90s my wife driver was a FE5 and then repainted FC7 Challenger built 340(solid cam ported intake/heads, headers manual cut outs 18 inches back from collectors ) built 727 (Fairbanks converter built) 8 3/4 Dana Power Lock with 391s in the 8 3/4.
It always eat Fox Bodies for lunch that ran NOS. And though they were faster.
She never open the hood so word on the street and her work was she daily drives a Hemi car with 340 badges.
We have quite a bit of One time at Band Camp Stories
 
That's why....

The parts you don't add, don't cause you no trouble!

KISS
Keep It Simple Stupid


And a few other limericks come to mind.


Go stock and save yourself problems.
 
While I'm totally in favor of keeping it Bone Stock, I don't.

BUT, this is EXACTLY why I try not to run a bunch of aftermarket crap on my cars. If you're planning on driving them, especially if you're going to go far in them, this is wise. You might not know exactly, but you can usually find something that'll work.

And I also have a notebook that lists all my mods, and has wiring diagrams (including stuff I added or modded), in the car at all times. I even put part numbers in there for wear items. Brake shoes? Oh yeah, that's part number XXXX from a '78 Volare that still had 3 different options.
 
4spdragtop said:
And the parts person asks you what year of car?
Depending on what your looking for, that could be a VERY good question.
This thought occurred to me a while back but became more prevalent on my "initial timing" thread.
Lemme explain....so our car is a 67 cuda. 273, 904, BUT I've "upgraded" to 70+ voltage regulator and alternator.
It also has elec ignition(1st came out in 72 or 3? Now we know that the alt, vr, ecu, and ballast resistor are linked together.
When thinking my electrical issue was coil related, I started digging for specs...well what year of specs? 67? Apparently with points, ballasts/coils these were specd different?
So now we move to 72/3 and up for elec ignition and those coils/ballasts are specs differently. I found several differently rated coils and br's?
I looked thru a couple FSM and couldnt find ratings for ones with elec ign.
My br in car is 0.6 ohm? Is it correct? Dunno...my coil in car is is 1.4 ohm primary and 8.49K ohm 2ndary. Correct? Dunno but it's in ball park from what I've found.
The MP backup coil I have measured 0.8 ohm primary and 4.39K ohm 2ndary. Basically 1/2 the resistance of the coil in car. I bought a new coil by SMP #UC12 1.49 Primary and 8.75K 2ndary. Identical to what's in the car.
Using Ohms law, changing the resistance will change the amps(when volts remain constant). I'm electrically challenged, but I know the life of our electronics(ecu) is largely dependent on the size of the amps?
With the coils and br I looked at, if I'm thinking properly, 1/2 the resistance would theoretically mean double the amps(if v is constant). Damage may or may not occur?
My br is 0.6 ohms, seems to be about 1/2 of what I've seen online?(1.2).
I have a RU37 SMP br ordered, we will see what it ohms out at. It apparently is a match to the coil UC12.
To get the RU37 and UC12 I used a 73 340 Dart so it included elec ign in the "look up". Now I'm using an orange box. I'm assuming its OEM. Now is it from an MP elec ign kit? I dunno, would the MP kit spec out the same as a 73 340 Dart? Dunno.
Then you can also add in the distributor, are pickup modules specs the same, oem vs MP? Obviously aftermarket is all over the map on this.
I was worried about swapping my coil for the MP one as I didnt want too many amps killing my Oem orange box ECU.
Just thinking lol.
Anyone got oem specs for elec ignition?

View attachment 1715998731

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View attachment 1715998736
Click to expand...
I got a headache from trying to keep all that straight! LOL
Seriously, I get what you're saying, and that's why I try to keep the mix and match to a minimum. I converted my 1970 Dart to OE style electronic ignition following a process that my friend and former employer had, which I've long since forgotten, but it was really simple, did not require changing much in the wiring harness, just some simple soldering and slight modifications. I did much the same to remove the Lean Burn system from later model cars that I owned, never had a problem.
 
yep been there lol tell ya a good one i was working on a 74 challenger one time & i went to advance auto to get some thing for it i dont remember what. The kid looked at me funny & asked if i was sure of the year. To make a longer story short he thought these new challengers were the first and didnt know they made them in the 70s.
 
jos51700 said:
While I'm totally in favor of keeping it Bone Stock, I don't.

BUT, this is EXACTLY why I try not to run a bunch of aftermarket crap on my cars. If you're planning on driving them, especially if you're going to go far in them, this is wise. You might not know exactly, but you can usually find something that'll work.

And I also have a notebook that lists all my mods, and has wiring diagrams (including stuff I added or modded), in the car at all times. I even put part numbers in there for wear items. Brake shoes? Oh yeah, that's part number XXXX from a '78 Volare that still had 3 different options.
Click to expand...
This is why I tried to return my 75 Dart Sport back to original as much as possible, taking out the MSD distributor, 6AL box, and even the MSD coil. I just don't have the need for all that when I know the OE system works very well and is reliable and easily sourced if it should fail.
 
Yeah any "mods" I did were trying to keep oem style so to speak. Elec ign, and 70+ OEM charging style. I also did "mad bypass ". A notebook is a must. I redid my underhood wiring schematic with the upgrades I did. As of yet I have to do the dash harness schematic that I made.
Lots of things to try and keep track of lol.
 
Just wait until you pass the car onto a family member or it’s sold once we are no longer around. Their head will spring trying to figure out year to reference depending on the part! Gotta keep them guessing!!!
 
I've had this too when getting parts for either of my Demons. The parts guy looks at me funny, questions my sanity, am I sure there is such a car, etc, etc. And then suddenly they're my best friend when I show them a pic of either car and the drool starts!! Even had one guy come running out to the parking lot to be sure and see my "Duster" as he loved them. Nope, it's a Demon I told him. No, he insisted, it was a Duster as he'd never heard of a Demon!! Told him I was pretty darned sure it was a Demon......

Just enjoy these old cars - they're fun for all the wrong reasons!
 
As a former "parts counterman" (some 15 years at two stores) just use the age old "They're all the same"

I got into one HELL of a mess with a drunk *** over a 350 vs 400 Chev, whatever he wanted it made a difference. "How do you tell?" I said look at the VIN you can not tell by just looking at the engine. "Bullshit there's no way you could get a 400 out of that little engine"

Yeh, well OK fine
 
67Dart273 said:
As a former "parts counterman" (some 15 years at two stores) just use the age old "They're all the same"

I got into one HELL of a mess with a drunk *** over a 350 vs 400 Chev, whatever he wanted it made a difference. "How do you tell?" I said look at the VIN you can not tell by just looking at the engine. "Bullshit there's no way you could get a 400 out of that little engine"

Yeh, well OK fine
Click to expand...
My favorite is the lady who came in, said she needed to buy spark plugs for her car. "What kind of car?" I ask.
"Blue" she says. I knew it was going to be a long day.
 
jos51700 said:
And I also have a notebook that lists all my mods, and has wiring diagrams (including stuff I added or modded), in the car at all times. I even put part numbers in there for wear items. Brake shoes? Oh yeah, that's part number XXXX from a '78 Volare that still had 3 different options.
Click to expand...
This is probably one of the most important things to do for your car!
I keep a "build book" as the car is going together, when it's done, I rewrite it into a new "owner's manual" and it stays in the car.
As time goes on and other projects come and go, it's tough to remember sometimes what exactly went into the car. Heck, I have a hard enough time remembering what I had for breakfast, let alone what year transmission is in this particular car...
 
67Dart273 said:
As a former "parts counterman" (some 15 years at two stores) just use the age old "They're all the same"

I got into one HELL of a mess with a drunk *** over a 350 vs 400 Chev, whatever he wanted it made a difference. "How do you tell?" I said look at the VIN you can not tell by just looking at the engine. "Bullshit there's no way you could get a 400 out of that little engine"

Yeh, well OK fine
Click to expand...
I feel you on that. I sold motorcycle parts for years, and everybody knew one thing about their quad: It's red.
 
If you totally understand ignition electronics and how to blend different parts from different years, that is great. I am pretty good with wiring, but not so much with ignition electronics. A few years ago, I bought a complete MSD setup. I got the MSD all mechanical advance distributor, MSD ignition box, MSD plug wires and an MSD coil. I assumed that if I stuck with one brand, it would work well. It does. I am VERY happy with it.
 
340six said:
Just tell them you have a 1970 Challenger 426-8 and need wiper blades.
Even if ya gave a slant six 3 speed. You know what ya need tget don't.
Most everyone working there is a moron.
Or just do like I do and Rockauto it for less, or look in ya Mopar parts book, etc.
Only you know what ya need.
Back in the 80s- to mod 90s my wife driver was a FE5 and then repainted FC7 Challenger built 340(solid cam ported intake/heads, headers manual cut outs 18 inches back from collectors ) built 727 (Fairbanks converter built) 8 3/4 Dana Power Lock with 391s in the 8 3/4.
It always eat Fox Bodies for lunch that ran NOS. And though they were faster.
She never open the hood so word on the street and her work was she daily drives a Hemi car with 340 badges.
We have quite a bit of One time at Band Camp Stories
Click to expand...
I wanna Hear, come on Man, We ALL wanna hear! YEEHAWWWWW!!! Please?
 
My 66 Plymouyh Satellite had FMJ front discs, a 727 out of a 84 Van, a 340 from 73, but with a steel crank, the aluminum will housing, and some other Frankenstein stuff kicking that I cobbled together. But it was a fun daily, even in the Tampa heat, for 2 years. And I was in my 40s... had to add a manual choke, cause when it was Really Cold, she wouldn't pop off.. also had a 69K member, idler arm even threw me! Lol the pulleys were robbed off my old 66 273 w/ ac.... fun stuff to get belts , almost choked out a few parts people ( "hey. Where's the belt measurement tool?" Oh that, we don't use that... ) grrr but the engines runs 180 in Summer (that Lil a/c pulley overdrives the wp)
 
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jos51700 said:
While I'm totally in favor of keeping it Bone Stock, I don't.

BUT, this is EXACTLY why I try not to run a bunch of aftermarket crap on my cars. If you're planning on driving them, especially if you're going to go far in them, this is wise. You might not know exactly, but you can usually find something that'll work.

And I also have a notebook that lists all my mods, and has wiring diagrams (including stuff I added or modded), in the car at all times. I even put part numbers in there for wear items. Brake shoes? Oh yeah, that's part number XXXX from a '78 Volare that still had 3 different options.
Click to expand...
Great idea!
 
One of my favorite things to do in the parts store is to make up some Mopar car (or truck) that has the same part...
 
4spdragtop said:
So, I'll ask again, anyone got factory specs for coil, br and ecu for a 73 dart?
Click to expand...

The specs are in the FSM for the '70..........



1666016156809.png


I imagine they'll be in the '73 as well..........

I believe you MP coil is equivalent to the MSD Blaster II maybe(?).
 
4spdragtop said:
So, I'll ask again, anyone got factory specs for coil, br and ecu for a 73 dart?
Click to expand...
Oh well why didn't you say that the first time! LOL..
Sometimes some of the napas will have old books to look through and have specs on things..
 
4spdragtop said:
So, I'll ask again, anyone got factory specs for coil, br and ecu for a 73 dart?
Click to expand...

73 is most likely electronic ignition. Ballast resister is different, 4 terminals. I wouldn’t want an 18 year old dropout telling me what I need.
 
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