Solid Roller lifters

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Looks like an old MP hyd roller- crane core deal. No you don't have to do anything. Just install and go. Put a decent valve spring in it,but I assume you got that covered/.
 
I was told it was a mopar performance cam. I got it from whitepunknitro and sent it off and had it reground to a .519 .531 I believe. If I need to upgrade the pump shaft I will. No sense in taking a chance. So the brass bushing comes out huh? How the hell do you get it out without dropping the pan again and flipping it over and punching it out? Ill do what I gotta do to preserve the build.

Maybe someone knows something I don't but I don't know why you'd eliminate the brass bushing. It's there to locate and stabilize the pump drive
 
G.m ,;n the money. Crane did a lot of other brands grinds,including all the Ford 303 roller grinds.Sorry,I couldn't be more help.
 
Back in the day you had to bush or tube the lifter bores to prevent oil escaping and dropping your oil pressure. And you hear stories of solid rollers not surviving on the street. Well if you dont oil the rollers and block off any oil to the lifter all together, how is it going to survive? Race engines are totally different than street engines. Race engines are at high rpm all the time, oil is flying all over the place. Street engines spend 95% of the time at 3000rpm or less and oil is not flying around to lube things like lifters with all oil blocked from getting to them. Bushing can help sure up and geometry misalignment, but its not 100% necessary in most cases.

We at MRL Performance make our own lifters. They are made from High quality materials, spot on CNC machining and are made to drop right in and last for a very long time.

The right solid roller will get you a better idle sound, more vacuum, more low end, more mid range and more top end power. The best of all worlds. There is always going to be a compromise with cams that dont have any type of variable timing, but its a lot less of a compromise with a solid roller.

See our web site for more info on our solid rollers
www.MRLPERFORMANCE.com

Thanks Mike, this gives me something to think about.

your lifters are competitively priced and it's nice to know there's something available that's not made in Bangladesh!

I've been looking at the comp cams catalogue and I'm seriously considering starting to collect bits for a solid roller conversion on my 318.

the lobes I'm looking at are from the "Xtreme energy street roller" range and spec as follows.

Lobe #4873
274 seat to seat.
236 @ 0.050"
159 @ .200"
Lobe lift .376"
And get them to grind them on a 112 LSA.

318 with 10:1, Ported 915 J's, 650AVS and 1-3/4 headers will stay.

Might be worth going to a single plane intake for this cam instead of the performer RPM though

Would this cam REQUIRE roller rockers or would my 273 adjustable rockers suffice? They're in great nick but it's a lot of lift too.
 
Very interested in the SBM Pro Plus lifters. Are they likely to be available in the next 12 months?
 
That's awesome.

It will be interesting to see how aggressive a lobe I can run with the .815" roller, the chevvy boys will be jealous as hell!
 
Very interested in the SBM Pro Plus lifters. Are they likely to be available in the next 12 months?

I've been eyeing Mike's Pro Plus lifters as well. Ultimately, I am letting my engine builder make the final say on whose lifters we will end up going with. I keep nudging him to look into Mike's lifters to get a comparison between his and other manufacturer's products. I am by no means an expert on how an engine like mine should be set up with the proper components so that's why I leave it in the hands of the expert. I just throw ideas at him and he'll either run with it or toss it out.

Mike, this is where you step in and say "My lifters are better than other lifter manufacturers' in the same price range because...". I'm trying to pull for your lifters, but you're gonna have to help me help you get the sale! The replacement cam specs are .645/.645 lift, 266/272 dur @ .050, with 106 LSA. Should be a nice healthy cam for the W2 headed 417. Got the cam in, got the custom pistons ordered, and now just need those lifters!
 
Just to re-assure you guys wondering about a solid roller, unbushed block on the street, I have been running my 383 b motor since 1988 with a solid roller cam, lunati rollers, and 1.6 isky solid rockers with .570 lift and 270 duration at .050 lift. I just went through the engine for a freshen up and it was like new. Also used a bronze dist drive.
 
Crane use to offer roller cams with an iron gear pressed on so you did not have to run the bronze gear intermediate shaft. I would expect they still offer this choice.
 
Crane did all the Ford 303 hydraulic rollers. All cast cam gears.
 
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