Some insight on my build

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Mysons68dart

Mysons68dart

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So i Was wondering what recommendations you guys had for what I already have going on here Would like to know your opinions on rear end gears transmission And torque converter, Carburetor size, rocker arms and push rods (i was thinking on going with hughes and doing the custom p rods since i have a hughes cam) ?
68 dart 270 , Shortened 8.75 rear end Which I already have 323s now, Doing a 4 link coil over system, I have a 1976 360 LA block board 70 over with KB107 flat tops. After doing the compression ratio calculator on the website with my 63 CC heads it's going to probably be 10.4 to 1 compression Ratio. High output oil pump with windage tray 7 or 8 qt milodon pan i forgot which, eddy alum heads #60779 ,rpm air gap 7576 manifold, see pic of cam card. I also have p265-50/vr 15 for tires. Thanks in advance
Gary.
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If you have the heads, use them. If you don't have the heads, snatch up the new Trick Flow head. It's what Vic wanted to build but didn't bother.

The rest is fine. In fact, there isn't really anything wrong with the eddy heads except they ain't nowhere near as nice as the TF heads in any respect.
 
yellow rose said:
If you have the heads, use them. If you don't have the heads, snatch up the new Trick Flow head. It's what Vic wanted to build but didn't bother.

The rest is fine. In fact, there isn't really anything wrong with the eddy heads except they ain't nowhere near as nice as the TF heads in any respect.
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I already have the heads should i gasket match and clean em up or otb ? And what about a 373s gear.
 
Mysons68dart said:
I already have the heads should i gasket match and clean em up or otb ? And what about a 373s gear.
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The gears are fine. I'd double check the guide and make sure they ain't tighter than a (insert here anything you like) or loose as sock on a rooster. Also have someone look at the valve job and make sure it's up to snuff. Then run them.
 
And get rid of that red paint inside that diff, the bearings and seals wont like it when it flakes off.
 
my5thmopar said:
And get rid of that red paint inside that diff, the bearings and seals wont like it when it flakes off.
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Do a forum search on glyptal paint as long as you prep it right it won't flake. I've also used rustoleum in my last engine build with no problems .
 
Not sure how much i would want to be leaning on a 70 over 360 block. If you plan on making anything even approaching serious power
 
B3422w5 said:
Not sure how much i would want to be leaning on a 70 over 360 block. If you plan on making anything even approaching serious power
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Gear change , Why would any one want a 4 link with 3;23 gears ??
 
Mysons68dart said:
I already have the heads should i gasket match and clean em up or otb ? And what about a 373s gear.
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If your not afraid to do this yourself, go for it.
On gasket matching, don’t worry about the ports floor to much. Ceiling and walls are most important. Run the porting work as far up into the port until the intake and/or head walls start to move away from the dimensions of the gasket shape. Remember, you don’t have to go nuts on it.
B3422w5 said:
Not sure how much i would want to be leaning on a 70 over 360 block. If you plan on making anything even approaching serious power
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Of course you wouldn’t. You would need to know how thick the cylinder wall was to start and finish with before you built it. If it was to think to harp on the engine in a drag race, you would t have gone there in the first place.

If it was bad to go there, you would have selected a different block. Saved the bad one for a people mover build at best.

What’s funny about your post is he lists the parts used for the build. I was wondering, do you consider that serious power that he should be afraid of that he gets the warning?
 
What are you going to do with the car? I would also be concerned with a .070 over 360. A street car going to shows/cruises some full throttle fun, sure. If it’s a matter of what you have at this moment, that’s understandable. We have all been there, the more power and abuse you throw at it the more concern I would have. I’m no where near the cliffs edge for stock blocks, but .040 is the limit, over 4” stroke and it gets a very short fill. You get Better ring seal. increase stroke can be hard on cylinder walls. You can get a stock block to survive at insane power levels, turbo ect, but do it wrong and there is zero margin for error. Again street car sure, something more and it’s a ticking clock.
 
Could be wrong, but the narrowed rear and 4 link leads me to a serious effort.
 
furrystump said:
Could be wrong, but the narrowed rear and 4 link leads me to a serious effort.
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The block was machine by a very reputable engine builder here in Santa Fe Springs California he has done many 70 over 360 blocks it was sonic tested Before & After and it was filled. What is Considered serious power ? You see what I'm doing as far as my build on my 1st post can anybody's speculate on how much horsepower I'm going to be making obviously it can't be a hot solid number because we don't know the rest of the build as far as carburetor and the other things that I'm going to be installing. As far is the for link I didn't have the money to go with an RMS system or Cal tracks and I also wanted the adjustability of a 4 link where you don't get that with the other systems I just wanted the car to launch straight. And as far as the 323s go there just what I had here Im not going to use those with my 4 link and this build whoever posted that earlier that's just happened to be what I have and I didn't clarify that in my 1st post.
 
So the block is filled? Then no worries on overbore.
 
So this is a strip only build, my 410 stroker with ootb eddy heads ran 12.47 with and airgap and 825 mighty demon. Through the 340 exhaust manifolds. Serious small block efforts need all the cylinder
Head you can get. You already have the eddy heads they don’t flow much ootb. You should either have them ported or sell and start with a better head as a starting point. HP no way to tell at this point.
 
furrystump said:
WAG with stock eddy rpm head. 400-450
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Thanks for your input furrystump for now i have to go with them ( unless the wife wins the lottery lol) I've port matched the manifold and taken the heads apart and checked the fitment on the guides, there all good as far as intake ports it looks like edelbrock cut those to match gaskets there's some machining divots that they left so I'm going to clean those up . Edelbrock cleaned up around the bowls and I've read you shouldn't polish intakes ? What do you think about the exhaust should i port match and polish or will that not give much gain. I am running tti headers.
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Mysons68dart said:
Thanks for your input furrystump for now i have to go with them ( unless the wife wins the lottery lol) I've port matched the manifold and taken the heads apart and checked the fitment on the guides, there all good as far as intake ports it looks like edelbrock cut those to match gaskets there's some machining divots that they left so I'm going to clean those up . Edelbrock cleaned up around the bowls and I've read you shouldn't polish intakes ? What do you think about the exhaust should i port match and polish or will that not give much gain. I am running tti headers.View attachment 1715344741
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Leave the exhaust alone. They are already too big.
 
The most important thing is a slightly smaller port compare to the header is MUCH better than the reverse. Also I found that the stock eddy springs are questionable at the lift the are advertised to handle.
 
furrystump said:
The most important thing is a slightly smaller port compare to the header is MUCH better than the reverse. Also I found that the stock eddy springs are questionable at the lift the are advertised to handle.
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I Was kind of wondering about that I was thinking of going with the 1.6 rockers and that would put that Spring pressure almost to the Max. I'm wondering if the hughes springs for that cam are good ?
 
I would see what hughes thinks about a spring for their cam.
 
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