Some Of Yall Construction Gurus......

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RustyRatRod

Caput villa stultus
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Ok so my shop is 24 wide and 28 long. Will a two wide 2x12 beam span 28 feet and hold the exterior wall of the shop up? It's just a simple metal shop. That side wall on the left is the wall in question.
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Double 2x12” is more than enough as light as that shop is. Are you looking to open up the wall?
The span is 28’ so you would need to support in the middle at least with one post at the 14’ mark. A single 2x12 open span is 14’ depending on local codes
 
20' is rhe max length available in Southern Yellow Pine. Microlam or Versalam enginered LVL's can be had up to 60' but vill be pricy.

You're looking at 30# live /10# dead load per square foot. 1/2 span of the carried load is 24' ÷ 2= 12' x 40# =480# per lineal foot along the beam.
 
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Double 2x12” is more than enough as light as that shop is. Are you looking to open up the wall?
The span is 28’ so you would need to support in the middle at least with one post at the 14’ mark. A single 2x12 open span is 14’ depending on local codes
Yes I want to put a lean to on that side of the shop and open that wall. I was thinking about posts on either end and one in the middle would be livable.
 
20' is rhe max length available in Southern Yellow Pine. Microlam or Versalam enginered LVL's can be had up to 60' but vill be pricy.

You're looking at 30# live /10# dead load per square foot. 1/2 span of the carried load is 24' ÷ 2= 12' x 40# =480# per lineal foot along the beam.
Oh yeah, that sunk right in. LOL
 
When I built my 30x36 garage (doors across the 30'wide end) I put a doubled up 36' long LVL down the center with a steel post dead smack in the center. Been standing 20 years now. I thought afterwards maybe I should have run 2x6 studs instead of 2x4 but so far so good. I did run them on 16" centers though. And a 6/12 roof also on 16" centers/ all stick built, not premade trusses. I added a ceiling and floor, for a walk up attic.

The one thing that I did cheap out on was the windows. I figured"just a garage ". I put some no name cheap single hung vinyl windows in there that are now (and have been) junk for a few years now. The first handful of years I opened them often in good weather but not in the last 10-12 years though if like to. These are opposite end from the overhead doors
I've been trying to find some better quality double hung ones to replace them for a couple of years now and can only find the exact same ones I originally used. I thought that being they were off the shelf at Menards that they "must be". Standard size but no. I can't find any for a 30x36 opening or even close.
I did finally find a pair of brand new still in the wrapper double hung, jeld wen ones in their higher line at a garage sale of all places a couple of weeks ago... Kept the 36 tall in buying these but they're also 36 wide.... Gonna have to pull my siding off the back wall (has the retailer flange like "new construction" style.) And pull my osb down on the inside, open up the hole 3" on each side, and extend each header 1 stud each way to be able to use them. Hopefully can do them both over a single weekend next spring. Will live with one boarded up and one screwed shut for 1 more winter.
 
How much snow do you get? :poke:
Down there probably lucky to get a dusting every few years...and by dusting I mean not enough to completely cover the roof where it couldn't be seen they the layer of snow
 
Down there probably lucky to get a dusting every few years...and by dusting I mean not enough to completely cover the roof where it couldn't be seen they the layer of snow
It was a joke :poke: 2x4 studs are plenty strong structurally. Wider studs are for additional insulation.
 
@RustyRatRod, it may not be what you want to do, but you could put a few large nicely braced doors on that side. I would think that as long as you tied/braced into the vertical steel braces with nice strong headers, you should be able to put in some nice big doors. As long as you don't want/need to be able to drive a car from one side to the other, a few big doors might be enough. Just make sure they are big enough for big things like cherry pickers.
 
Down there probably lucky to get a dusting every few years...and by dusting I mean not enough to completely cover the roof where it couldn't be seen they the layer of snow
Any measurable snow is rare here, although it snowed 24" in our back yard at the house I was raised in in Macon in 1973. Keep in mind, Macon is about 80 miles SOUTH of Atlanta and they didn't get a flake.
 
@RustyRatRod, it may not be what you want to do, but you could put a few large nicely braced doors on that side. I would think that as long as you tied/braced into the vertical steel braces with nice strong headers, you should be able to put in some nice big doors. As long as you don't want/need to be able to drive a car from one side to the other, a few big doors might be enough. Just make sure they are big enough for big things like cherry pickers.
I'm not opposed to leaving the wall in and using maybe some kind of large, sliding door. I'd like to eliminate the wall, but it's not a deal breaker.
 
LVL is a engineered product. Typically found at lumber yard (at least here on west coast). Good stuff but maybe overkill for your situation.
Whichever way you go. Good luck.
 
I'm going to suggest very seriously talking to the company who engineered that building. The outer skin is part of the structure on them just like a pole barn. If you take it off to open it up, you will alter the parameters for which is was designed and it could compromise the structural design. Might never be a problem, or the first high wind situation might blow it down.
 
Ok so my shop is 24 wide and 28 long. Will a two wide 2x12 beam span 28 feet and hold the exterior wall of the shop up? It's just a simple metal shop. That side wall on the left is the wall in question.
Just clean out all the junk in there and you won't need to add a room.
 
Post "20" says it all. I would remove the back wall and extent it outward to whatever length you think you may need. Or leave the wall there add a man door and a roll up door on the far end of the extended shop area.
 
Put all your stuff in storage, sell off the metal building, and build a garage mahal of your dreams. You only live once.
 
Two 2x12 will not span 28’ with a load on it, 3 might tho. Assuming you can even find 2x12 28’ long. They would need to be Ponderosa pine, Southern Yellow pine, or Douglas Fir to even consider it. I would assume that you want to cut all of the vertical supports to about 1’ from the top to leave the radius of the roof intact ant the eaves, and rest them on top of the header. A shoe on those would probably be necessary to mount them to the beam, you could probably fab that to go inside the down drop of those legs, use a pass through bolt to hold them to the leg, mount a plate on the bottom and fasten them through the header by drilling holes in them for screws. If you don’t mind a post in the span, then yes, 2 would hold the span with a post. You will still need SYP, Ponderosa or Doug Fir as you will not find regular SPF 2x12 that long. With a post you wouldn’t need one long piece, you could use 14’ lumber and join them on top of the post.

I myself would use 2 16” LVL’s, I believe they would free span the entire 28’. 2) 18” LVL definetely would.
 

LVL is a engineered product. Typically found at lumber yard (at least here on west coast). Good stuff but maybe overkill for your situation.
Whichever way you go. Good luck.
Thank you. I will look into it.
 
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