Sonic Checks

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ozcoupe

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Sep 7, 2008
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BRISBANE,AUSTRALIA
Hi all, new to the site.Has anyone had a lot of experiance with sonic checking blocks.I have a 400 block std bore 4006530 casting numbers.i guess i am looking for information on what min thickness should be.I want to take it in and have it checked but when they hand me the print out of the cylinders what are the type of numbers that i want to see as a min thickness.It is going to be bored 35 over and stroked around the 500ci mark with 580/650 hp and some nos later.And what options do i have in the aftermarket block selection without going crazy with the cash$$$$$$$ John in OZ:-D
 

For the level you want and sticking with a B wedge, there's not too much available except Keith Black. I would suggest you go with and RB and then use the World iron block. The cost will be about 1/3 more the cost of properly prepping the 40yr old stuff, but it is MUCH stronger than the end result. If you reach well beyond 600, factory blocks are on the edge of strong enough, even in the B design. The secret is great parts, and perfect machining. The lower end parts will not survive long term in the build you want. You will need a very good crank (I do not consider 440source as great. good, but not great), a main girdle, and the bores need to be thick. As far as sonic testing, I own my own good unit, and test regularly. The minimum thickness I would look for for your level is .200 on the major thrust, no less than .150 on minor thrust and on the pin axis. Unless you get lucky, your block will not have that. Sleeving can help, but they have to do it right. I would estimate you will need to test 2-3 blocks before you find one that will be good enough by those numbers without sleeving any holes. And make sure your tester gives you at least 20 readings per hole, plus the minimum scanning thickness. This lets you see the trends in the core placement on that block. The best 400 block is the cold weather 400 last three digits of "230", and cast before 1972. Those are thicker. You can also run a 1/2 fill and an oil cooler too. That will also make a marginal block be usable. But again, you have to make sure the upper segments of the cylinder are thick enough. A 1/2 filled block, with the thickness above and a girdle, with a good forged crank, should live at 600n/a, and another 300-400 under spray. Block prep alone will approach the $4000US level if you have it all done with normal machining (fit caps and girdle, align bore/hone square deck, bore, plate hone, lifter bore work, clearancing for stroke), oil system mods, and lifter bore correction and bushing. Or you can call and get a KB b wedge block, fully machined and in aluminum for a bit more.
 
Thanks for your reply,I am leaning towards the kb b block option like you said,The 400 blocks in Australia are fairly pricey and hard to come by with 99% imported into the country as rebuilders,So far on my learning curve into sonic checking blocks,i have relised that by the time i pay to have the block checked and these blocks (400/440)sell between $800-1800 aus a block.I CAN'T KEEP BUYING AND PAYING TO HAVE BLOCKS CHECKED!.I will give this 400 i have a sonic check which is $180 a go and use your min thickness as a guide.The engine builders my friends use only give 12 readings per cylinder.Should i be shopping around for someone that will give more readings per cylinder and there builders only seem to be worried if the min is under the 105/110 mark and say they can offset the bore a little.It would be good if my 400 turned out great on the report but if not i can sell it and put the cash towards the better kb block.It is for a 68 dart clone.
 
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