Sorry but another 318 cam question.

-
O

odie 2882

Member
Joined
Jan 5, 2020
Messages
23
Reaction score
19
Location
Regina Saskatchewan
So I bought a re-ground, long snout roller cam off ebay a couple years ago because the price was so cheap and I thought it would work ok in a 360 magnum. Well I came across a really nice 318 magnum for cheap and bought it just to get my car moving again. So I guess I just want to know how disappointing this cam may be in a otherwise stock 318 magnum motor.
Car is a 69 dart two door custom with a 904 and stock 71/4 rear with 2.70 something gears. I am looking for a 8 3/4 with 3.55 or 3.91 gears to replace the little rear(they are hard to find around here). Also will be getting a new converter was thinking 2800?
Ok so here are the cam specs. Sorry I don't remember the company's name that I bought it from but I believe they were out of Texas.

Advertise duration
In.286
Ex.298
Duration @.050
In.227
Ex.234
Valve lift 1.5
In..480
Ex..480
Lobe lift
In.320
Ex.320
Rpm. 1600-5400
Lsa. 112*
The car will only be for cruising around, no long highway trips,although I will "get on it" quite a bit . So the new rear end, gears,tourque converter, headers, etc. Are bought or will be bought. I also purchased hughes 1110 springs and retainers. I'm fairly certain they will be fine with this cam but what are your thoughts?
 
Your going to hate the 7-1/4 gears. The ones your looking at are much better for the package. If you can find a 8-1/4 rear, there a lot cheaper and will hold the power no problem what so ever. They also have a big bolt pattern lug set up. A nice thing is you can swap disc brakes on them easy enough.
 
RustyRatRod said:
That's a decent grind.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the reply! What do you think about the hughes valve springs for this cam? With the magnum 1.6 ratio valve lift will be. 512" .
1110 springs are-120# seat pressure
280#@.450"
303#@.500"
327#@.550"
I know it's dumb asking for advice after I have already bought this stuff but it's hard not to second guess yourself before you put it all together. Buying the wrong parts is one thing but putting it all together and in the car, then realizing it really sucks and having to take it apart and then buy new stuff and do it all over again would be really bad.
 
odie 2882 said:
Thanks for the reply! What do you think about the hughes valve springs for this cam? With the magnum 1.6 ratio valve lift will be. 512" .
1110 springs are-120# seat pressure
280#@.450"
303#@.500"
327#@.550"
I know it's dumb asking for advice after I have already bought this stuff but it's hard not to second guess yourself before you put it all together. Buying the wrong parts is one thing but putting it all together and in the car, then realizing it really sucks and having to take it apart and then buy new stuff and do it all over again would be really bad.
Click to expand...

I think it's a dead match. Run it. It'll run good.
 
rumblefish360 said:
Your going to hate the 7-1/4 gears. The ones your looking at are much better for the package. If you can find a 8-1/4 rear, there a lot cheaper and will hold the power no problem what so ever. They also have a big bolt pattern lug set up. A nice thing is you can swap disc brakes on them easy enough.
Click to expand...
Yes,thank you. That would be a definite option for me. I would like to convert the car to the big bolt pattern. Front disc brake setup from a mid 70's a body and big bolt pattern rear to match would really open up the wheel choice!
 
IMO, that cam is a hot street cam. It’ll work well in the teen with some gear and stall which his choices above are good. 3.55’s and a 26 inch tire plus will work well, the 3.91’s will work well with a slightly different taller tire.

@odie 2882 When money allows, upgrade your heads for better head flow. At .512 lift, a bowl porting will be a nice power enhancement. This broaden the power curve.
 
I've got a Lunati [email protected] lift roller I bought to put in an LA roller 318 block with Magnum heads.

I think you will be OK.

Look for M body cars with an 8 1/4 axle (it's real close to the exact length for an A) and then pre'97 Dakotas with a 8 1/4 and 3.55 gears (pre- '97 gears and carrier will interchange with the M axle).
Long way around but I bet they're easier to find than an A body 8 3/4...and cheaper.
 
Definitely a good setup for the combination. If it helps any, I'm switching into a 2000 Sure-Grip Durango axle. The first gen Durango axle is 42 inches spring to spring perch and the perches are on the bottom of the axle tubes. I've got a set of Cass's (Dr. Diff's) excellent bolt in spring locators and shackles for 41-3/4 spring to spring width to make it an easy drop in. It would still fit okay on the 43 inch spring width, but I need the tire to spring clearance anyway. The Durango axle is 65 drum to drum, but could be dealt with enough wheel backspace/positive offset.
I'll be narrowing mine with 8-3/4 axle ends and some Moser axles cut to 27 splines, but only because I came into a set of reproduction Polyglas L60-15s on a set of E/T IV five slots on the cheap. It's a lot to go through in my case to swap for an 8-1/4. But being I already had most of the stuff on hand or was able to trade for other items with minimal investment, I'll still be in it for a lot less than a similarly outfitted 8-3/4.
 
Last edited:
you could always fit a ford exploder rear axle, discs, lsd, 3.73 gears and 31 spline shafts. with the long side driveshaft swapped for a second short one (casing cut down too of course) they're spot on for an A body. cheap too. i did the swap for my 68 valiant.
neil.
 
Is the Durango axle a 9 1/4?

Is it the same spline count?
 
It’s actually an SLT all wheel drive so it came with a 27 spline 8-1/4. They came in 9-1/4 in 2000 in the 2 wheel drive version, and it would have had 31 spline axles.
 
I'm going to have to start checking the pick and pull for early Dakota and explorers. Sounds like a lot cheaper way to go.just a little fabrication to get those axles to fit.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top