Sound/Heat Insulation Material suggestions

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340_dart_power

340_dart_power

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I'm looking for input as to which sound/heat insulation material any of my fellow FABO'ers (FABOians?) have used in their A Bodies or other vehicles.
As you can see, I've gutted the interior so that my subframe connectors can be installed w/o setting the carpeting or seats on fire, so now is a prime time to install insulation.
I've looked @ Dynamat and some others, and none of them are inexpensive so if I'm going to spend the money I want a good product.
What have you used and what issues have occurred during the install, and are you pleased with the results of the product you chose?
Thanks for any ideas and suggestions.

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340_dart_power said:
I'm looking for input as to which sound/heat insulation material any of my fellow FABO'ers (FABOians?) have used in their A Bodies or other vehicles.
As you can see, I've gutted the interior so that my subframe connectors can be installed w/o setting the capreting or seats on fire, so now is a prime time to install insulation.
I've looked @ Dynamat and some others, and none of them are inexpensive so if I'm going to spend the money I want a good product.
What have you used and what issues have occurred during the install, and are you pleased with the results of the product you chose?
Thanks for any ideas and suggestions.
Click to expand...

A friend of mine did his '69 Camaro with the Dynamat. He was real happy with it and he is a perfectionist.
 
went to lowes and got something that had foil with bubble inbetween, it works good as a heat block but only ok as a sound deadner. was about $40 to do the car.
 
I used 2+ bulk paks of Dynamat Extreme on my Comet.
Already have 2 bulk paks of same on the shelf for the
Barracuda. I will install it from the front firewall to the
rear firewall, doors and roof. Good stuff!
Rat

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Dynamat Extreme here too. I found it at a sound shop and it was much cheaper. I used tin roof insulation (like EL5Demon340 mentioned) in the trunk and behind the back seat.
 
What does the sound/heat insulation weight in at? If I were to do my 70 Swinger how much weight could I expect to ad?
 
I used a product called Hushmat only because my buddy could get it wholesale. It worked great. Cuts down on heat and noise from the Blowmasters. Used two packages to do everything from the firewall to rear window, with a few squares on the roof also. Added about 40 pounds to the car. Well worth it.

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So far, so good; got the rear seat back removed and vacuumed the interior prior to painting the POR15 onto the floorpan interior this morning.

Decided after doing some checking around to go with a product called B-Quiet (www.b-quiet.com). I e-mailed the EZ Cool Insulation people through www.lobucrod.com and they were kind enough to send a sample of their product. It's very lightweight and is foil coated on both sides as you can see from the photo, so you need an adhesive to spray or roll on the floor pan (or wherever you're applying it) to keep it in one place.

The B-Quiet is the larger piece of material, and has a foil coating on one side and a rubber material on the other which has adhesive on it covered by a peel-off paper. This sample of the B-Quiet I got from my local restoration shop (Ross' Restorations, Thompsons Station, TN.), and I've ordered enough to do my interior floor pan via the Internet from the B-Quiet company. The instructions I received from my shop was to cover the seams between pieces with a foil tape called Shurtape DC181, which has a heating and air conditioning duct application, and is readily available through Home Depot or Lowes.

The B-Quiet is scheduled to arrive on 10/20/2009, so I have some time to work on other areas before it gets here. I'll keep posting more as the work progresses.



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not trying to hi-jack your thread 340 dart power, but are you or has anyone done thier roof with any sound deadening? I am worried that the butyl material may come loose or start to run on a hot day.
We had a 1978 Nova when I was a kid and on hot days, the factory sound deadening would oooze out of the b and c pilllar pieces that held up the headliner.
 
retsud043 said:
not trying to hi-jack your thread 340 dart power, but are you or has anyone done thier roof with any sound deadening? I am worried that the butyl material may come loose or start to run on a hot day.
We had a 1978 Nova when I was a kid and on hot days, the factory sound deadening would oooze out of the b and c pilllar pieces that held up the headliner.
Click to expand...

The resto shop I use installs the B-Quiet throughout the cars they work on, including the roof headliner area w/o problems or issues from what they tell me.

No offense or hijack thoughts entertained, retsud; it's all good info.
 
Just my two cents, but I didn't tape any seams. Pieces butted up against each other pretty tight. Sounds like overkill to me. Again, just my opinion.
 
Spent today installing the B-Quiet. I bought a fifty square foot roll and have about two feet left of it. It was fairly easy to work with, and wasn't too messy either.
I still have to tape several seams but most of the install is done.
Next step is to put the carpet in and console & seats and make this thing driveable. I'm getting tired of not having the Dart to drive on the weekends.

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The B-Quiet looks exactly like window flashing from any home center, some have a foil on one side, others do not, but both have the sticky rubber side.
 
I work in the aircraft building business, so I would like to warn you about not using any spray adhesive that is not flame retardant, especially near header or mufflers. Read the label, please!
 
fstfish66 said:
how much did the B QUEIT cost compared to the others?? looks nice
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It was a fifty square foot roll, adhesive backed, delivered for $106.00 from Canada. I'm impressed by it, and think it will work.
I believe I was looking at around $200+ for Dynamat and the others.
"Canada, eh?" (lol)
 
70dart340 said:
I work in the aircraft building business, so I would like to warn you about not using any spray adhesive that is not flame retardant, especially near header or mufflers. Read the label, please!
Click to expand...

Good point, especially as I still yet have to use a spray adhesive to affix the carpet collar around the console.
 
Still working on putting this Classic Muscle Car back together.
Got it back from the shop on Wednesday of this week and am very pleased with the job they did on the carpet install. They ran into a problem with the carpet I had bought and provided to them, because despite being advertised (when I bought it several months ago) as being "formed to fit the floor pan" of my 1971 Dart it was anything but. They had to heat it up with a heat gun and repeatedly push it into the floor pan areas to mold it to the contours after they had sprayed the area with adhesive.
Next step is to glue on the cowl/neck piece of carpet which attaches to the console, get the front & back seats in, install the seat belts and go for a ride.


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