Spark Plug Replacement

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Johnjgonzo8D

Johnjgonzo8D

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Alright Mopar guys, I'm sure you have answered this many a time. But, I have a 64 Dart /6 225. I want to get replace spark plugs, and I was looking at the NGK v-power part number 3459. If I replace the old ones, will I need to replace wires or anything like that? Any tips and tricks help. sorry I am kinda new to cars, alas I don't know everything. Thanks guys
 
You don't have to replace wires but it may be a good idea; depends on their condition.

Use a small amount of anti-sieze on the threads when you re-install them to keep them easy to remove later. Keep it off of the electrodes. You can get small packets or a whole bottle of anti-sieze at an auto parts store.

I can't recall if you remove the gasket ring or not on your year of /6; is this the original year engine?
 
That is about the best plug you could pick for that year car, as previously said, at least take look at the wires if it is time for them too. I have run those plugs in 4, 6, and 8 cyl cars and I have always been pleased with their performance.
 
yeah the wires are not in bad condition. it is the original engine. thanks for the help guys.
 
I also just bought 6 of the NGK 3459'sSaturday to use in my 64 225. (complete rebuild) These are peanut plugs with 5/8" hex instead of 13/16". I know to remove the gasket but comparing them to original style plugs, the seat has a much smaller diameter, eyeballing them side-by-side, about 1/8" smaller diameter.

My question is will the smaller diameter have an adverse effect on the sealing of the spark plug tubes? Will it tend to tear up the mating surface of the tubes? My original tubes are really in nice shape and I'd hate to ruin them.
Thanks.
 
That setup is counting on the tube as the gasket. Put some antisieze on the base of the plug to help keep from brinnelling the tube.

BTW, I never have looked to see why removing the gaskets is a good idea. It may be that keeping them in partially defeats the long reach of these plug tips.....
 
I too don't know where removing them came from.In all my years working at a Dodge dealership we never removed them. They were there from the factory in the new cars. Not saying that it is OR is not a good idea.
 
nm9stheham said:
That setup is counting on the tube as the gasket. Put some antisieze on the base of the plug to help keep from brinnelling the tube.
BTW, I never have looked to see why removing the gaskets is a good idea. It may be that keeping them in partially defeats the long reach of these plug tips.....
Click to expand...

The first time I read about removing the gasket/washer was on slantsix.org and the article was written by who else but SlantSixDan. I can see the reasoning for removing them on the stock Champions to get the spark out into the combustion chamber more. There's plenty of room on a 225 with the piston stopping .17/.18 short of the deck. He flat out states that the NGK ZFR5N (3459) is the best plug to use for a slanty because it moves the sparkler out into the mixture more.

I don't know if that was the official Chrysler stance or not. It my be just a recommendation by SSD based on his experience.
I have a 68 FSM here at work and under Tune-up it says:
"Clean or replace spark plugs as necessary and adjust gap to .035 inch. Tighten to 30 foot-pounds."
It's been my experience with Champions that the plugs come out of the box ready to go. If it needs a gasket it's there. If the gap needs to be .035, right on. (I still check)
Maybe I'll drop a line to Ehrenberg, he's good for tracking that kind of stuff down.

But I was wondering because the sealing area is a lot smaller than the bigger plugs if anyone had problems tearing up the bottom of the tubes?
 
From 1964 Dodge Truck FSM and 1965 Plymouth FSM. "The spark plugs are located at the wide edge of the combustion chambers, aluminum spark plug tubes serve as spark plug gaskets."
 
KosmicKuda said:
I don't know if that was the official Chrysler stance or not. It my be just a recommendation by SSD based on his experience.

But I was wondering because the sealing area is a lot smaller than the bigger plugs if anyone had problems tearing up the bottom of the tubes?
Click to expand...
I suspect this is the source and the reason is to get the tips out further. I seriously doubt Chrysler would have a stance since this is not the standard plug....... I would have the same concern as you, but I am supposed to keep the gaskets on my very early /6 head, due to a step in the plug seat area I think ....Pishta knows the answer on that one.
 
nm9stheham said:
That setup is counting on the tube as the gasket. Put some antisieze on the base of the plug to help keep from brinnelling the tube.

BTW, I never have looked to see why removing the gaskets is a good idea. It may be that keeping them in partially defeats the long reach of these plug tips.....
Click to expand...

If you keep the metal seal on your plugs they will run hot. your motor will run hotter when accelerating above 40 instead being cooler and can also place the plug tip improperly in the combustion chamber.
 
I installed the NGK's today and washers do not like to come off. With their longer length I dont see the reasoning that they are not deep enough with washers on. I left them on and tighten it down.
 
You snip them off if you have too...

It's thread length, not tip length....
 
SLODuster said:
I installed the NGK's today and washers do not like to come off
Click to expand...

The NGK washers are nicer quality than the cheap crud that comes with Chumpions or Oughtta-lites. They do come off without much hassle; you grab the outer rim of the washer with a regular pair of pliers and just unscrew the plug out of the gasket. It's worth doing, too, which is why Chrysler said to do it. See here. The '63-up heads have a redesigned counterbore at the top of the spark plug hole; the spark plug tube itself seals the plug, and if you use the washer it interferes with heat transfer from the plug to the head. The '60-'62 heads don't have the special counterbore and need to use the plug gaskets. This is factory info; following it has always produced best results for me. The idea is to prevent the plug from running too hot; following factory procedure and going without the ring washer means you can dial in just a tetch more timing 'cause your engine is just a tetch less prone to pinging, well, you're that much ahead.

And no, the 3459 (ZFR5N) is not a peanut plug. "Peanut plug" means the taper-seat plugs used on '75-up slant-6 heads. The 3459 does have a small hex (11/16") rather than a large hex (13/16") but the only difference that makes is you have to use a different spark plug socket to install/remove them.
 
slantsixdan said:
They do come off without much hassle; you grab the outer rim of the washer with a regular pair of pliers and just unscrew the plug out of the gasket. It's worth doing, too, which is why Chrysler said to do it.
Click to expand...

Yeah, right! A hell of a lot easier said than done with these plugs, all 6 start out cross threaded, guess it's time for the snips and not muck up the threads.
 
They just unscrew off the threads with a little patience. :D

Grabbing the ring with a pair of needle nose and a couple of rotational twists makes them loose enough to come off easy also.
 
69a100 said:
slantsixdan said:
They do come off without much hassle; you grab the outer rim of the washer with a regular pair of pliers and just unscrew the plug out of the gasket. It's worth doing, too, which is why Chrysler said to do it.
Click to expand...
Yeah, right! A hell of a lot easier said than done with these plugs, all 6 start out cross threaded, guess it's time for the snips and not muck up the threads.
Click to expand...

»shrug« Donno what to tell ya, ace. Those are the plugs I use, and I've never had a problem removing the ring washers just as I described. Yes, the washer unscrews at an angle to the threads, but that's hardly the same as a plug cross-threaded into a head. I've never mucked up the plug threads doing it this way, and I've never had to use snips.

Your mileage may vary…quite a lot, I guess.
 
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