Sputtering 318! Please help

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dartkory

dartkory

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Today my girlfriend and I were on our way back from the river, and while on the freeway my car began to sputter. I quickly realized it only would do it when accelerating over 2400-2500 RPM. I figured it was something to do with spark so I replaced the wires, cap, and rotor. I didn't replace the plugs cause they were only a couple months old. But after that there was no change. It runs great cruising but once I start to give it a little, and hit around 2500 it sputters again. What could it be? maybe fuel filter? thanks for any help -Kory
 
try replacing the distributor, I had one go bad and had those symptoms. might try pulling the vacuum advance and seeing if it fixes problem, thats what worked for me until I got a replacement distributor.

I bet its the advance from the distributor... sounds like a fit
 
I'd start in the fuel system....replace the fuel filter...pull the needle and seat clean it then test it again....after that if it still does it check the gap on the points...if it has electronic check the air gap....trouble shoot the problem dont just throw unnnessesarreeeeeee parts at it ( I use spellwreck)
 
waggin said:
I'd start in the fuel system....replace the fuel filter...pull the needle and seat clean it then test it again....after that if it still does it check the gap on the points...if it has electronic check the air gap....trouble shoot the problem dont just throw unnnessesarreeeeeee parts at it ( I use spellwreck)
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I dont think trying a different dist is "throwing parts at it", its troubleshooting. just as replacing the fuel filter is not throwing new parts at it. but yes, waggin's steps are cheaper (unless you have a spare dist laying around) and hes more knowledgeable so try them first. dwell dwell dwell
 
I replaced the distributor about 3-4 months ago so I'm hoping that's not it. But if changing the fuel filter and cleaning the needles doesn't work than that will be my next step. Thanks for the input. -Kory
 
I'm sorry if that came out wrong...did not mean to disrespect anyone...no I'm not more knoledgable<<<<<and half the time I can't spell correctly....just seems like it could be a fuel starvation problem....hot wheather ,clogged fuel filter....sputtering at those rpm's....for a small test sometime open up the gap on an electronic distributor or a set of points.....then try closing them down...on the electronic dont go to the point where it contacts the stator....then drive the car in each setting and you will feel and possibly hear the diffrence.....really if he has a spare distributor it takes no time to change it out....a fuel filter is general maintenence...the gas they are selling us is cause enough to go to the fuel system first...when I started playing with these a bodies I was 14 and dad taught me his way's of doing things and I learned a lot taking things apart and fixing them rather than buying a part...to each his own....really I din't mean any disrespect.....Wagg's
P.S. dwell changes with opening or closing of the point's gap or changing the air gap on an electronic distributor...just sayin.......
1969dodgedartgt said:
I dont think trying a different dist is "throwing parts at it", its troubleshooting. just as replacing the fuel filter is not throwing new parts at it. but yes, waggin's steps are cheaper (unless you have a spare dist laying around) and hes more knowledgeable so try them first. dwell dwell dwell
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I would do plugs anyhow.....there is such thing as "new junk" too lol......and depending on if you drive alot in hot summer days or if you have headers or manifolds or drove it hot before or whatever.....you COULD have cracked a plug (seen it happen before) also seen cheap plugs burn the electrodes out quick and or made of poor materials and after awhile the gap changes.

assuming its timed correctly and that the distributor is tight....I don't THINK it will be your distributor....but you never know.

as was mentioned, check your points.

fuel filter is a good maintenance to do anyhow...so may aswell put on a new one.

let me ask.....did you recently get gas before this happened? you could have got some bad gas....you might want to try going to the station and mixing in some premium to see if it clears it up any.

also....to trial and error things.....start the engine....then one by one un plug a spark plug wire from the plug and plug it back in.....if you un plug it and you develop a miss than the plug is doing its job....however, if you un plug it and it does little to nothing than you found a weak/dead plug.

tricky to say for sure if its a plug being that you say the miss kicks in higher in the RPM's but I have seen similar things happen.

this is also assuming your engine does not have a butt load of miles on it and is on its last leg and is losing compression or something.

is there any change in the problem from driving under a load to free reving in park or neutral?

any exhaust leaks?

carb tuned correctly?

all vacuum hoses are in good condition and not dry or cracked?

you may want to try unplugging the vacuum advance and see if there is a difference.

you can also unplug the vacuum hose to the advance canister and suck on the tube and if it changes the idle than odds are it is doing its job.

all sorts of things that it COULD be....but hard saying without being hands on.
 
I went through the same thing a couple of weeks ago on my 75 W100. I swapped the dist, coil, ignition box and rebuilt the carb. Come to find out it was a plug in the #2 cylinder. The gap was all but closed. Don't ask me why. I set the gap back to .035 and that did the trick. Checking the plugs will only take a few minutes and it will eliminate it as the problem anyway.
 
Was your car out of sight at the river? What are the possibilities that someone poured something in your gas tank. Just saying some people get jealous of nice classic cars and do stupid things.
 
waggin said:
I'm sorry if that came out wrong...did not mean to disrespect anyone...no I'm not more knoledgable
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me sorry too for my hasty over sensitive reaction :banghead:

you definitely are more more knowledgable, my spelling sucks too...
anyway...
I agree that he should open the dist and check points/ replace points before going up the level to checking dist, as I should because its the more systematic approach
 
Kewl beans....i'm not cheap...monetarily challenged lol is why i approach things a lil' diffrently Have a Great weekend Ya'll...i'm thinkin it's a good time to get out on the Lil' boat :viking:
1969dodgedartgt said:
me sorry too for my hasty over sensitive reaction :banghead:

you definitely are more more knowledgable, my spelling sucks too...
anyway...
I agree that he should open the dist and check points/ replace points before going up the level to checking dist, as I should because its the more systematic approach
Click to expand...
 
Sounds like a problem I had with a 69 Chebby pickup.
Check the screws and carb to manifold bolts.
They don't have to be to loose and you can get a vacuum leak.
Mine weren't that loose and it started sucking air.
The filter would be the first thing I'd check. The cheapest and easiest.

Good luck.
 
I changed the fuel filter and I thought it had fixed it but when i went on the freeway once I got around 2500 it started again but was much much fainter than before. I'm gonna check the plugs tomorrow, clean the mixture screws and if that all checks out my next thought was maybe replace the mechanical fuel pump. What do you guys think? The motor is only about a year old, and the pump is probably the oldest part on it at about 2-3 years old.
 
Does it have the two bbl carb? very likely it could have the llose screws as the other poster had said....and also very easy to clean out the needle and seat...the fuel line on the two bbl screws into the front of the carb the brass fitting it screws into is the needle and seat....
 
Rev it up and manually close the choke, until it almost dies. That sucks the water in the bottom of your carb, through the jets.
 
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