starter relay-clutch safety switch

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barbee6043

barbee6043

barbee 6043
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1971 duster slant 3 speed manual....... I have New starter relay, it is the one for older 4 speed manual models that did not have the CSS or terminal for NSS. So I am not using the clutch safety switch.... Car will sometimes not get current to the ign switch and with the test light, shows NO current at the yellow ign wire at the Starter relay switch. Now here is the funny part. I can wiggle the large connector under steering column that contains this yellow wire plus all the others (that include the 2 ign 1 wires.) then it starts!!!
I would have to say the problem is an intermittent working starter relay switch, BUT how it is that it will start if I simple wiggle the yellow ( and all wires) at that main connector under the steering column???????
 
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Start right at the connector you are wiggling!!!!

Which one is it, the bulkhead connector, or the connector for the column?

If the latter, it's the connector for the ignition switch. Either the connector is bad, or the switch is, loose wire/ etc.
 
I was just wondering, why not bypass the switch. How many thousands of Mopar 4 speed cars were built in the 60s without that switch? I realize it is a safety item, but if it is causing problems, why not bypass it? Just asking. Thoughts?
 
harrisonm said:
I was just wondering, why not bypass the switch. How many thousands of Mopar 4 speed cars were built in the 60s without that switch? I realize it is a safety item, but if it is causing problems, why not bypass it? Just asking. Thoughts?
Click to expand...
67Dart273 said:
Start right at the connector you are wiggling!!!!

Which one is it, the bulkhead connector, or the connector for the column?

If the latter, it's the connector for the ignition switch. Either the connector is bad, or the switch is, loose wire/ etc.
Click to expand...

The CSS is bypassed as that particular Starter relay has no terminal for that CSS, ( like what I used to could buy for Manual shift cars),,,( not sure where i found this relay as all o' Reilly shows is the 3 terminal ones) ..if it did not , I would simply have grounded it, as I do not want to mess with the CSS on the pedal. Too hard for old fart like me to deal with!!
I will run a jumper at the yellow wire at the column connector to bypass that connector, ..If that does fix it, I will go to ign switch wires.
I have cleaned the bulkhead connector couple times, and did the MADD deal except I cleaned the terminals at the Amp gauge as I like to keep it functioning.
 
There's only so many places the problem can be. The "functional path" of the start circuit is.........

Dedicated "start" contact at igntion switch...........column connector..........bulkhead connector...........to starter relay

If you are satisfied that you are actually losing power at the yellow wire at the relay, then that should eliminate the relay as a problem.

So either the column connector or the switch itself. ABODYJOE did a great write up on changing the ignition switch some time ago
 
It has been many years since I had to go inside a column to deal with ign switch!! Most all the cars I have had last 20 odd years were pre "70!!

This car had started every time while I was working on the brakes/body, but lately it developed this starting problem. Another question, is the yellow wire off starter relay only hot with I engage ign switch to start (ign 2) OR is it hot all the time sending current up to the ign switch???

Does any of these Ign 1 wires have anything to do with the 4 wire splice? or feeding back into charging system? The car has run excellent, but since this starting problem began, it off and on has a miss and the volts will not be constant every time I start it.
Been about 7 weeks out from my triple bypass and I have trying to not have to stand on m head trying to check out wiring problems!! ha
 
If you are getting additional problems with voltage it might be supply voltage COMING TO the switch. You just have to (or get help) get a voltmeter and go at it.
 
67Dart273 said:
If you are getting additional problems with voltage it might be supply voltage COMING TO the switch. You just have to (or get help) get a voltmeter and go at it.
Click to expand...
I know. My volt meter died other day. 50 mi to Horrible Freight but free there!!!!!! ha
 
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