Starting gremlin

[jameybro]

First, a huge thanks to all of you who take the time to post thorough, detailed and very helpful posts. I have successfully rewired and worked through my entire ignition circuit and never even had to post a question. I did it all by searching old posts and solved my over-charging issue and a few other things that were hacked up by the previous owner EXCEPT this one...

(65 cuda, 5,2 magnum, electronic ignition, NEW solid state voltage reg, alt, batt, mini starter, starter relay)

Sometimes, and ONLY sometimes when I turn the key to start, it
1. clicks continuously - like the classic bad/stuck solenoid sound
2. sometimes just clicks once and then - nothing
3. Every time this happens my GPS that is plugged into the lighter socket goes dead, meaning that the power is getting cut somehow.

What I discovered is if I unscrew the quick disconnect on the bat and then snug it back down all is well and it turns right over. No exceptions, it 'fixes' it every time. Just to clarify, the GPS loses power before I disconnect and reconnect the batt

I'm baffled. Any ideas ?

I know that someone will say that just because it's a NEW part doesn't mean it's a GOOD part but this symptom has remained through all phases of engine swap, part changes, new ignition circuit, etc... I swapped old parts back in with no luck.

 

[67Dart273]

This should be easy to find, as you are losing power somewhere.

FIRST thing to do is remove both battery terminal clamps and CLEAN them. Buy a good "battery brush" if you don't have one, like this:

If that does not clear the problem, then find out WHERE you are losing power

Get your test lamp "rigged" with clip leads so you can see it while reaching in to turn the key to "crank."

Also see if turning headlights on/ off affects problem

Start by clipping test lamp to engine block, and starter relay battery stud

Does it stay lit when problem appears?

Then problem is further downstream

If it goes out, it's right there somewhere, battery, cables, clamps. Cables can fail internally with corrosion!!

If you got a light but no crank in the first test, move further on

Backprobe the bulkhead connector where the fuse link enters, with lamp grounded to block. If it lights / no crank, problem is elsewhere.

Probe the push one yellow wire at the starter relay. No/ dimming light at that point means it's between the bulkhead (in test above) and the starter relay.

MOST LIKELY in this case is the bulkhead connector itself

Other suspects are:

Failed / loose ammeter connections

Bad connector/ bad ignition switch

Failed "in harness splice". This is a factory welded splice a few inches into the under dash harness from the black ammeter connector. You'll have to untape it and follow it down.

To check these out, Access the igntiion switch connector under the column. Find the battery feed to the switch, and try to crank.

IF you get a dimming/ poor light, it's between the switch and the bulkhead, IE ammeter, splice, or bulkhead itself

If you get a good light, probe the outputs of the switch, the yellow, the dark blue. If these are nice and bright when problem occurs, most likely is where those wires go through the bulkhead.

 

[jameybro]

I'll go through your checklist one at a time. BTW, you are one of the guys I was talking about who have really helped with your posts. Many thanks for all of your time!

What I don't get is why a simple 'reset' of the batt solves the issue? How can a corroded or loose connection be overcome with that?

 

[7dswinger]

Interesting, I've been having a very similar and figured out that the alternator and battery are both bad. Battery won't hold a charge and Alternator charges and 10v at idle and decreases over time

 

[jameybro]

This should be easy to find, as you are losing power somewhere.

FIRST thing to do is remove both battery terminal clamps and CLEAN them. Buy a good "battery brush" if you don't have one, like this:

Yep - both brand new and clean. That's one I keep up on

If that does not clear the problem, then find out WHERE you are losing power

Get your test lamp "rigged" with clip leads so you can see it while reaching in to turn the key to "crank."

Also see if turning headlights on/ off affects problem

No effect

Start by clipping test lamp to engine block, and starter relay battery stud

Does it stay lit when problem appears?

Then problem is further downstream

If it goes out, it's right there somewhere, battery, cables, clamps. Cables can fail internally with corrosion!!

Doesn't go out but dims some - Normal?

If you got a light but no crank in the first test, move further on

Backprobe the bulkhead connector where the fuse link enters, with lamp grounded to block. If it lights / no crank, problem is elsewhere.

Probe the push one yellow wire at the starter relay. No/ dimming light at that point means it's between the bulkhead (in test above) and the starter relay.

Found it - Screw loose on this connector. Cleaned and snugged. I'll run it for a while and see how it goes.

Again, thanks for your help on this!