starting my 4spd swap tomorrow

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aaron68s

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I have a couple question
1. What's the best oil to run in the trans?
2. Will my factory auto trans bell housing bolts work in the manual bell housing?
3. Many more questions to come I'm sure.
Thanks for your input :burnout:
 
ran into my first snag. my trans hump fits perfect except it has about a 1- 1 1/2 gap at the rear where it meets the floor. do i have the wrong hump? i will try to get a pic down loaded.
 
You need a 4 speed bell housing. Auto bell housings are part of the tranny.
 
Get some pictures of that hump and we will try to help out. I had to massage mine a little when I did the swap into my 74 Dart. I bet you have the right one.

Your auto bell housing bolts should work fine. I'll check on the oil
 
The one I have is after market hump an also has same gap. You have to fab up a little piece of sheet metal that's all.
 
On the oil question factory used ATF. On my 833 overdrive I used Lucas SAE 90 gear oil.

It shifted real nice with that oil. On cold winter days in Kansas the shifter handle field a little heavy until the car warmed up a bit but I never had any trouble.

The gap between the hump and the floor even existed from the factory in many cars. I removed at least 1/2 inch of seam sealer from between the hump and the floor from the doner car mine came from.
 
Yes they will. I did the same swap and used the same bolts my auto trans had.
 
Aaron, before you install the 4spd, you may want to check the o-rings and gasket on the side cover to see if they are in good shape.(just an fyi, easier to do it now before the 4spd is installed.)
 
The gap may be because of the 75/76 cars with the catalytic converter. Not sure about the repopped covers, but I know that I have both original styles, and using one for a 75/76 car on a pre-75 car results in that gap. The original one I put in my '74 duster is within a 1/4" at the worst spot. Still, it's an easy enough fix.

Oil should be 85-90 weight gear oil. Make sure it's not the kind with additives for limited slip differentials, as the additives are not good for the synchro's.
 
The trans floor hump isn't the correct one, it sounds like it's from a '75 to '76 a body. It looks like you have an earlier car.
It'll work fine, you just need to fab op a small piece of metal to fill it in as mentioned earlier, not a big deal at all.
Yes, the bellhousing bolts will work fine.
As for oil, you can use dexron atf or 90w gear lube. Do not use synthetic, it is too ''slippery'' for the syncros to work properly.
Have a peek in my build thread, i converted a '74 Dart Sport to a 4 speed from an automatic in there.
 
Yep, the hump is 75-76, the floor kicked up in those cars to clear catalytic converters. I have run both gear oil and Dexron, Dexron is my favorite, it is lighter and makes for better shifting.
 
thanks guys, that is my hump problem, I have a 75-76 hump, didn't relize there was a difference. think I will just order the correct one from brewers
 
Something like this. As you can see, there was a little variation...
 

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Dartnut said:
The trans floor hump isn't the correct one, it sounds like it's from a '75 to '76 a body. It looks like you have an earlier car.
It'll work fine, you just need to fab op a small piece of metal to fill it in as mentioned earlier, not a big deal at all.
Yes, the bellhousing bolts will work fine.
As for oil, you can use dexron atf or 90w gear lube. Do not use synthetic, it is too ''slippery'' for the syncros to work properly.
Have a peek in my build thread, i converted a '74 Dart Sport to a 4 speed from an automatic in there.
Click to expand...
I got a lot of useful information from your rebuild thread, great job by the way.
 
aaron68s said:
is it welded in place?
Click to expand...

Yup. Spot welded at the two holes below the pivot.

mopardude318 said:
yes, it is welded in place...the 2nd pic is a touch crooked. lol
Click to expand...

Yeah I thought that was pretty funny. But it just goes to show that not all of them were installed the same. Really all that matters is that the pivot hole is in the right place, and a little bit of it gets welded to frame and not just inner fender. Pretty hard to miss the frame though. ;-)
 
Which way does the clutch rod go? Crooked end on the pedal or z-bar? Sorry for all the questions, just asking before I get to that point.
 
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