starting problems

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68dartgtman

68dartgtman

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Hey guys - need a little help
I thought the reman starter was bad as when I turn the key to start position nothing would happen ... do it a couple of times and then the starter would drag and then start the car- so I put a New starter on and everything fine for a couple of days and now I have the same problem -
could the problem be the netrual safety switch?
I have done the following:
brand new starter - not a reman one
new heavy duty battery
cleaned all ground wires to make sure of good connections

thank you for any advice that ya'll can give me
Mike
 
I had a simular problem and found connections at the starter relay were loose and also check the ground connections at the battery and engine block.
 
As stated, check grounds and connections at the battery as well as the relay. Check the fusible link, are you still running the factory amp meter? If so I recommend the amp meter bypass mod. Myself I had to replace the switch at the key, removed it and checked for continuity with a meter when turned to start and nothing. Replaced switch and everything ran good as new
 
A voltmeter with long clip leads is helpful. It can be placed where you can see it while you try to crank. Start with battery terminals, then start relay, on to motor terminals. If you find low voltage, when it should be near battery voltage, it is problem. On the relay, the NSS is ground, so the voltage should be near zero. Consult the wiring diagram in the factory service manual. There are links to them found with Google.
 
Thanks Guys !
I will try what you suggest and hopefully I can find the problem - it's really aggravating for it not to roll over as the engine runs so well and trying to get it ready to go the shop for other mechanical issues I can't fix - but the damn thing needs to start first !!

thanks again!
 
racerdan80 said:
As stated, check grounds and connections at the battery as well as the relay. Check the fusible link, are you still running the factory amp meter? If so I recommend the amp meter bypass mod. Myself I had to replace the switch at the key, removed it and checked for continuity with a meter when turned to start and nothing. Replaced switch and everything ran good as new
Click to expand...
Hey racerdan80

where would I find the fusible link? I do have the factory amp gauge which works and shows that the system is charging while the car is running.

thanks !

Mike
 
The fusible link comes from the starter relay to the firewall and sometimes has a colored tab saying fusible link and it goes directly to the amp meter once through the firewall. If the meter is working you have current up to that point. If the fusible link or the amp meter goes, it kills power to the entire car. Make some jumpers and use a voltmeter to check the key switch under the dash. It's about a 5 min job and would rule out the switch if it has voltage and continuity when put to start position.
 
Will the car start by putting the key in ON and jumping the starter relay?
 
racerdan80 said:
Will the car start by putting the key in ON and jumping the starter relay?
Click to expand...
I have not tried that yet but when I was cleaning all the connections at the starter relay last nite the wrench hit another post and the starter rolled over - I didn't have the key on at all. I have to admit - I am terrible with electrics -- just confuses the hell out of me !
 
I hope this is the problem I am having with the "no Start / sometime start with starter dragging" problem ...... I have replaced:
battery relay
starter relay
starter - new mini starter
battery - heavy duty one
voltage regulator
resistor
ignition switch
repaired high voltage wires at bulkhead - ran them through the bulkhead and connected them under dash
new neg battery cable
Have ordered new positive battery cable - waiting for it to come in * see pic of old cable
cleaned all grounds - *** I do have a question - I don't see a "braided" ground wire from block to frame on this car - could that possibly be an issue? There is a ground wire coming off the backside of the right engine head which goes to the firewall - looks like it is a ground for the blower motor as there are two wires coming off this connection at firewall which one goes to the blower motor.... the other to the head

to me, this old positive battery cable looks like it has been arching against the starter .........
I hope the hell this works as I am running out of ideas and patience...........

IMG_1556.JPG


IMG_1557.JPG
 
Hey Guys,

The "no start every time" is now history !!!!!!!!!!!! I installed the new positive battery cable and removed starter and cleaned bell housing and starter face - both had oil on them from engine leak - Oil leak will be fixed next week - re-installed starter and also did the MAD conversion and the Dart starts every time now !!!
Thank you all for the help as I was getting quite upset at this car !!!!!!!!!!!!!
It has an appointment next week to have the following done:
new motor mounts
new trans mount
new universal joints
new oil pan seal
new high volume oil pump & pick up tube
new pinion seal
new diff gasket & fluid
new trans selector shaft seal
new trans neutral safety switch

hopefully with all this being done I will not have anymore leaks !!! Damn engine, trans & rear end are all leaking at the same time !!!! gezzzzzzzz
THEN I hope to paint the car before it gets to cold so I can spend the winter putting her back together so she will be ready for Spring !!!!

again, thank everyone for all the in-put !!!

Mike
 
It takes very little voltage to close a relay. That's why 99% of the time we will hear a relay "click" whenever a starter, battery, or its connections fail.
Thus the smaller wires that feed everything except the starter itself ( as in madelectrical bs ) cannot be the problem in this case. Doesn't matter now though. Get yourself a volts gauge and carry on.
For a more positive comment, you did get rid of that POS add on battery terminal before winter sets in.
 
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