static timing

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sparkyct

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I'd like to do a static time on my 72 Swinger, slant 6. Can anyone give me a procedure? I plan to get a timing light, but I need to move it in and out of the garage. I have a lot of sputtering at idle and it stalls when I put it in gear.:banghead:
 
Static timing :-k I am not a good tec but there will be one here soon :happy1:
I remove the #1 spark plug and turn the engine over slowly till I feel compress stroke coming up... I hold a straw in the hole till I feel the piston top out... Then look at your rotor cap and see if it is pointing at the #1 plug wire hole on your distributor cap.. turn the dizzy (distributor) till they alien up.
Then start there, block all vacuum lines and check for any vacuum leacks under the carb :happy1: Remove your vacuum from your dizzy untill you get it timed in... Replace and go from there :happy1:
 
What Memike said is what I did, but had the similar problem as you at first....engine would idle fairly well, but as soon as I put it in gear it would stall. The problem for me, was not enough advance. I played with it, giving it more advance then adjusting the idle until it would stay running. I know I still have to play with it some more to get it to run better, but it will stay running in gear now. Granted it was on a 318 not a /6, (see guys, that one won't get by me again) but I assume the principle is the same.
 
Lets check your air gap, and test the Dizzy also, remove the dizzy cap and see how much wiggle you have in the shaft, I had a Dizzy that wiggled to much and ran like that and some times would not even start..
 
What Memike said is what I did, but had the similar problem as you at first....engine would idle fairly well, but as soon as I put it in gear it would stall. The problem for me, was not enough advance. I played with it, giving it more advance then adjusting the idle until it would stay running. I know I still have to play with it some more to get it to run better, but it will stay running in gear now. Granted it was on a 318 not a /6, (see guys, that one won't get by me again) but I assume the principle is the same.

Yes, what theothergarth said =D> and just think!! that dizzy'es advance may have trown a spring if not 2 :shaking2: Inspect that dizzy for sure :happy1:
 
what do I set as the timing? I set it at 5 degrees PTDC. Is it something else?

Let me look, but I set them by throttle response (smooth) with do kick back starts when trying to start it = to high timing.
popping out the carb would be to low.

I will be back to give you stock timing for a 72 225.
Not unless another tec' doze it first. :D

BFTDC or ATDC , the PTDC got me wondering.
 
to add to this-- when adjusting the dizzy after aligning the #1 position--- turn your key to on--- have your cap all buttoned up(leave it loose)
you will need an extra spark plug or pull#1

rotate the dizzy
make sure the spark plug is grounded -- it will spark when you move the dizzy-

- that is your starting point- Advance from this spark.
Lawrence
 
Vdart is on the right track. Sounds like you have points

1 Remove no1 plug, stick your finger in the hole, on a /6 might be tough. Use a scrap piece of hose, or your compression gauge. Bump the engine until compression STARTS to build, and make sure the timing marks don't go on past TDC

2 Timing marks should now be "approaching" Slowly rotate engine until marks are aligned with where you want timing, IE 5BTC, or a little more, 6-8BTC, etc

3 Generic for any engine. You can discover which way the rotor goes by "springing" the rotor against the mechanical spring. You can MOVE it in the SAME direction that the dist. rotates, it will then spring BACK.

Moving the dist. HOUSING AGAINST this direction ADVANCES the dist.

4 Make sure your points are properly gapped FIRST, as point gap affects timing

5 Move the dist housing towards RETARD somewhat. This will, when you move it back, "remove slop" in the drive.

6 Do one of two things. Either clip a 12V test lamp on coil NEG, or rig the coil wire to a plug, IE direct from coil to plug so you can see spark. SLOWLY move the dist housing ADVANCED until either the 12V lamp lights, if that is what you are using, OR until the spark "happens."

IF YOU have breakerless ignition, this is a little trickier. I usually set the timing at least 3* ahead of desired, and just move the dist until the reluctor is centered in the pickup coil core. You can also move the dist in the same way and look for a spark, BUT this is harder to do, because there must be "some movement" to trigger the spark. This means it's easy to overshoot (over-advance) the setting, but with practice, you can certainly get it close enough to run and run fairly will
 
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