Steel intake gasket

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bschubarg

bschubarg

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looking for tips on installing that gasket with out worries of leaking... welcome your ideas..

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Do you need the use of the heated portion under the intake or not? (cooler climate)
 
Max1196 said:
Do you need the use of the heated portion under the intake or not? (cooler climate)
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Good question and observation... I do not.... Even though I live in North Carolina and yes it can get cold, I garage the car and by the time I put the car into drive it's warm enough.....
 
I would not use it at all. Because I'd rather not have to pull it apart when it is found to be leaking. You've got 3 leak paths there, air, oil, and water. Assuming this is a 318 or 340 motor, get some FelPro 1213S3 and do the job just once.
 
As long as you are using a cast iron intake it will work fine.

All I do is spray copper coat on both sides and let it tack up. Then bolt the intake down and be done.
 
One more question, are you using headers or manifolds? Manifolds , is the heat riser deactivated?
 
Complete fail... leaking water into the engine and a nice milky oil too boot...onto the thicker felpro gasket...
 
69_340_GTS said:
I would not use it at all. Because I'd rather not have to pull it apart when it is found to be leaking. You've got 3 leak paths there, air, oil, and water. Assuming this is a 318 or 340 motor, get some FelPro 1213S3 and do the job just once.
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You are correct... and guess what I’m doing now...? Replace the gasket....
 
The problem with the steel shim gaskets are that they are too thin, in many cases. If the heads, block, or intake have been machined, or are not within tolerances (whatever they might be), that gasket is not going to seal. This is also why those cork end seals are usually too thick, and often can't be used on something that has been machined, or just isn't "right".
 
I did, but had a lot of machine work done.... weiand 8007 intake....
 
69_340_GTS said:
The problem with the steel shim gaskets are that they are too thin, in many cases. If the heads, block, or intake have been machined, or are not within tolerances (whatever they might be), that gasket is not going to seal. This is also why those cork end seals are usually too thick, and often can't be used on something that has been machined, or just isn't "right".
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You’re absolutely correct....
 
Was there a "pin" in the middle of the front/rear "china wall"? Did you remove them?
 
How thick is the "dried and set" silicone at the front and rear of the engine?
 
bschubarg said:
I did, but had a lot of machine work done.... weiand 8007 intake....
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If you had your heads milled down, you should either have the intake surface of the head cut to match (so you can use any intake) or have the intake milled to match...either way, check fitment before gluing it down...my 0.02 dollars on the matter.
 
flyfish said:
If you had your heads milled down, you should either have the intake surface of the head cut to match (so you can use any intake) or have the intake milled to match...either way, check fitment before gluing it down...my 0.02 dollars on the matter.
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That's not his problem...he used these shim gaskets with an aluminum intake against the advice of several people here. These are to be used with cast iron intakes only. Use composite (FelPro,etc.) ones with aluminum intakes.
 
65Val said:
That's not his problem...he used these shim gaskets with an aluminum intake against the advice of several people here. These are to be used with cast iron intakes only. Use composite (FelPro,etc.) ones with aluminum intakes.
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correct......
 
65Val said:
That's not his problem...he used these shim gaskets with an aluminum intake against the advice of several people here. These are to be used with cast iron intakes only. Use composite (FelPro,etc.) ones with aluminum intakes.
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LOL, gotcha. I saw something about machine work, thought it might be what I mentioned above on top of the obvious wrong choice in gaskets...no biggie, carry on :)
 
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